• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.6
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2004

North Korea's traditional dress(chosun-ot) has developed as follows: right after the liberation(l945). North Korea tried to get rid of Japanese style and empty formalities and vanity, so chosun-ot became simple and practical. And from the Korean war to 1950's North Korea had tried to establish through a restoration of the war and chosun-ot is more easy and simple. For 1960's People became to be interested in their clothes owing to a stable socialistic economy and politics, and tried new style due to the influence of the Korea-Japanese. Since 1972 North Korea has claimed a dictational socialist organization, and constructed its own culture. Therefore North Korea emphasized its own clothing habit. and its garment style developed differently from South Korea. Since 1984 North Korea tried to change its policy dramatically. and chosun-ot has changed to a modern and various style. But on the other hand, traditional style of chosun-ot was more emphasized. North Korea especially tried to succeed its traditional style. it pursued only partial changes by sticking to its original style. And its color to bright and magnificent one with additional ornaments. Because it tried to change the style within the limits of its tradition, traditional dress has a quite fragmentary and flat appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.5
• /
• pp.51-60
• /
• 2013

The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.8
• /
• pp.123-137
• /
• 2016

Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.5
• /
• pp.54-65
• /
• 2003

To accomplish the above goal of this study, I have taken the statistics about wearing behavior and design preference for Saenghwal Hanbok. This is surveyed by 354 women having jobs 20-50years old-in Daegu. The result of the study is summarized as follows. People prefer to put on Saenghwal Hanbok same as the Korea Traditional Dress in the traditional holidays and the active style that they can dress as casual clothes having the Korea Traditional Dress's characteristics as well. Form a viewpoint of appearance, people prefer Jugori have a bit spare width, the length comes near to the waist line, the type of Korean Traditional Dress's sleeve, and the round type that is linked body and sleeve in waist section and length is between knee and the calf of leg.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.58-66
• /
• 2002

The objectives of this study are to develope sensibility image scales for Korean traditional motifs by quantitatively measuring their images and preference and to classify them into clusters. Data were collected via a questionnaire from seven hundred twenty five Korean undergraduate students. Re experimental materials were forty eight stimuli of Korean traditional motifs with different categories, interpretation types, composition types, and application objects. The instruments consisted of 7-point polar semantic differential scales of twenty three bipolar adjectives including preference. Data were analyzed by correspondence analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. Re major results are as follows; image scales for textile patterns and dress designs using Korean traditional motifs were constructed. The axes of sensibility image scales for both textile patterns and dress designs were defined by quality level and degree of simplicity. Second, four clusters on the scale of textile patterns and two clusters on the scale dress designs were identified. Third, in the case of textile Patterns, the preferred cluster had high-quality and classical images, while the cluster that was not preferred had a complex image. In the case of dress designs, the preferred cluster had simple and high-quality images, while the cluster that was not preferred had complex and low-quality images.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.131-146
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.921-928
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study were 1) to find out impression dimensions of the dress wearer with various motifs 2) to evaluate the impression effects of motifs in Korean traditional dress for women. The research method was a quasi-experimental with the between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and response scale. The stimuli were consisted of 12 drawings with full factorial design of 3 independent variables : motif sorts (2:flower animal) motif types(2: realistic stylized) motif arrangements(3: all over the traditional to modern) The stimuli consisted of color photographs and color of clothing and motifs was controlled the blue. The response scales were consisted of 30 bi-polar adjectives. The subjects were 333 undergraduate college students of Taejon. The data was analyzed by factor analysis MANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. Results were as follows: 1. The wearer's impression were consisted of the 3 different dimensions : attractiveness · dignity dimension. Interaction effect among motif sorts motif types and motif arrangements was significant on the same dimension. Interaction effect between motif sorts and motif arrangements was significant on the visibility dimension. 3. The motif arrangements were a significant variable on the attractiveness·dignity and the evaluation dimension. The traditional arrangement and the modern arrangement showed more faborable impression and the all over arrangement showed less favorable impression on the attractiveness·dignity dimension. The all over arrangement showed positive impression on the evaluation dimension and the traditional arrangement and the modern arrangement showed negative impression on the same dimension. There were no significant difference between flower sort and animal sort and also no significant difference between realistic type and stylized type in their impression effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.597-606
• /
• 1998

The purposes of the study were 1) to evaluate the visual image of colored Korean traditional dress for woman 2) to analyze the colors and, color combinations effect on the image perception using gestalt theory. The research method was a quasi-experimental with a between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli was consisted of 17 drawings of females wearing Korean tradinational dress, by using CAD simulation. A response scale consisted of semantic differential scales. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students of Taejon city, Chungnam province and Chungbuk province. Their responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, 1-test. Results were as follows; 1) The image of the stimulus was consisted of the 4 different dimensions.(sociability, evaluation, visibility, attractiveness) 2) Clothing colors had significant effects on image perception of the evaluation dimension, visibility dimension and attractiveness dimension in the mono-color set. The blue showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension, and the yellow and the gray showed negative image on the same dimension. The yellow showed the most salient image and the gray showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. The red showed the most attractive image and the green showed the least attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. 3) In hi-color set stimulus, the perceived image was influenced by color combinations. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most sociable image on the sociability dimension. The blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most salient image and the blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. And the red blouse-the yellow skirt set showed the most attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. On conclusion the visual image of Korean traditional dress wearer was affected by dress colors and color combinations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.34-47
• /
• 2008

Recently, as popular interest in costumes in Korean films and TV dramas has increased, traditional dress in works has re-evaluated with modern perspective of the Western color system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the traditional dress for women appeared in works after the 2000s has shown features similar in the use of red has appeared high. The high frequency of brown and pink, orange and purple used main colors in Western works. Also, what is the most prominent is the high frequency of use of achromatic colors. Second, the color harmonies of the East and the West have been done through color arrangement. The structure with more than 2-colors has been gradually changing into single or 2-colors, which give simple images to people. Third, in order to portray characters' diverse and psychological situations, Korean works have expressed the symbolisms of colors from the Western perspective. Though red symbolizes theory of Yin-Yang and Five-Elements, passion and authority since 2000 have used red to make main images. Also, pink is used as softness and pure images. Though works before the 2000s showed low frequency of the brown. The achromatic color that it has been applied to various parts. Recently black has been developing into a color symbolizing themes. Given the results from this study, it could be expected in future that the categories of color domains will be gradually extended as it is a trend for the traditional dress to escape from primary colors. On the other hand, achromatic colors that minimal and modern sensibility as well as basic color in fashion, especially the black, will increasingly extend ranges of utility or show a tendency of resolute changes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.19-32
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.