• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.262-276
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to develop torso patterns according to the somatotype and thus to contribute to the ready-made industry. Classification of the somatotypes was based on each individual's lateral and frontal view and development of torso patterns according to the somatotype was to center on the darts. The subjects in this study were female college students of 18 to 24 year old. This study was carried out by the following procedures: 1. Classification of the somatotypes was based on each individual's lateral and frontal view. The somatotypes were classified into 18 types. 2. Eighteen subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics and average mea- surements were chosen. 3. Subjects were clothed and a sensory evaluation was carried out. 4. Experiments of alterations were carried out. The quantities of revision of torso patterns due to the difference of somatotypes were measured through these. These method were due to the items of the sensory evaluation. 5. By obtaining the results of the sensory evaluation and experiments of alterations, the torso patterns according to the somatotypes were developed. These were inputted to the CAD System and compared with one another. 6. Grading of the torso pattern according to each somatotype was carried out and thus a file of torso patterns was made according to the somatotypes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.100-112
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the torso patterns by analyzing sensory evaluations. The anthropometric measurements for female college students were obtained between March and October in 1998, and a total of 197 anthropomatric data was used for the somatotype analysis. The appearance and fit of three kinds of torso patterns(ESMOD, FIT, and Muller & sohn) were evaluated by expert panel and the subjects. The results of the anthropometric measurements and sensory evaluations are as follows; The mean height of the anthropometric data for 197 students is 158.98cm. The largest proportion of the three somatotypes(H, M and A type) is big hip type(A type) consisting of 47.7% of all the respondents. The result of the torso pattern evaluations by expert panel indicates that the ESMOD pattern obtains the highest rating in general acceptability. A significant difference(p<.05) in the responses to two questions, the placement of the waist dart, and the gapping & creasing at back hip area was found. The ESMOD and Muller & sohn patterns are given the highest rating in the general acceptability. The result of the evaluation was obtained by the subjects. (Korean J. Human Ecology 1(2):100∼112, 1998)

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-80
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• 2002

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.