• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

As modern society advances, women's self-consciousness and attitudes toward beautiful appearances have changed. Amid this trend, the young and slim body of adolescent girls expressed in contemporary fashion incites fantasy on continuing youth among women. In modern society, women's youth is frequently regarded as a subject of consumption and a sex product in the mass media. In this regard, the study is focused on examining desire and psychology of worshipping women's youth and beauty in connection with flapper fashion in the 1920s. In the process, the study took a look at the social and cultural background of flapper fashion and conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and aesthetic sense of flapper fashion as follows: First, the formative characteristics include a short skirt that expresses straight lined shape and the beauty of exposure, lighter clothing, thick make-up, short hair style and black or vivid colors, and they lead to exceptional and innovative aesthetic sense in flapper fashion. Flapper fashion style is focused on completely denying outdated fashion worn by women in the age right before. Second, pursuit of mature, graceful and classical beauty that had continued in previous ages has gone through complete changes in the flapper era in the name of pursuit of youth, and the flapper fashion expresses sensual image through the exposure of slim arms and legs of a young girl. In the formative characteristics, aesthetic sense of youth and sensuality inherent in the flapper fashion was generated. Third, women's free-spirited lifestyle at that time and 'aesthetic sense of freedom and amusement that reflected the speed of machine civilization could be found in the flapper fashion. Material and decoration of the flapper fashion pertained to clothing that enabled a free expression through rapid movements. Aesthetic sense of the flapper fashion generated in the process could be defined as women's internal determination to express individual and free-spirited ideas through the use of fashion when tradition and order of the old age were torn down. And this aesthetic sense is continuously affecting modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.14-32
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• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.94-110
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.51-51
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of, the ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through formative elements such as shape·texture·details and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. The results can be summarized as follows. First, Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty, and ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty with ugliness. Second, the images of ugliness have been expressed in paintings and fashion. The 20 century paintings, representing the ugly shape are extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The shape have been distorted, deformed, destroyed. And Pluralism and De-constructivism with its traits of indeterminacy have become the background of ugliness images in Fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is first, to see through the aesthetic essence of the clothing as art, through theoretical consideration of cultural feature and body style in Postmodern Feminism. Also, this study will examine the aesthetic value in artistic meaning regarding a Deformational body image in visual an. Second, this study will analysis the formative character of Modern Art to wear which expressed unfixed body style, followed by the change of Postmodern Feminity, as a Deformation image. This character will be categorized by Expansion, Grotesque, Pleasure, and Virtuality. The following is the result of this study. Expansion expressed in modern Art to wear created intentional structure of the form, and intentionally presented refusal of body existence through disembodied. Grotesque expressed refusal and deviation of women's ideal body style, which is defined by mannish discourse, very grotesquely. Pleasure pleasantly presented free emotion through an intentional transformation like distortion or imbalance of the body By paradoxically reproducing women's virtual body as other unfixed female identity was expressed visually through virtuality to embody post-gender.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.138-154
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to propose up-cycling fashion designs, based on guidelines derived from up-cycling fashion brand products and their required elements of the design. The study thus categorized required elements into environment, significance, economy, function, design, and material, then extracted a set of design guidelines. The guidelines for waste resource-based up-cycling fashion design include the followings: First, authenticity, taking mutual environmental relations into account. Second, rarity of products beyond the domain of standardized ready-made goods thanks to manual operation. Third, storytelling, reflecting the consumer history. Fourth, sustainability to signify the circulation of matters. Fifth, experimental characteristic to fulfill creative innovation. Sixth, changeability through interactions with wearers. The investigator decided design concepts based on them and created up-cycling design works with waste plastic bags, shirts, stockings, neckties, outdoor mats, and backpacks in a variety of formative expressive techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.45-57
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• 2007

This study is on the aesthetic characteristics of Balenciaga design succeeded to by Nicolas Ghesquiere, and tried to understand his pursuing brand's new design concept and aesthetics. The three key characteristics of Balenciaga designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere are Retrospecitvness, Eclecticism, Deconstruciton. First, Balenciaga looks retrospective sense through reinterpreting tradition. Nicolas created a new sense of expression by mixing his proper instinct with Balenciaga's original properties, historical components of the past western dress, and various design elements of assistants who used to work in Balenciaga. Second, Balenciaga expresses uncertain meaning by compromising between contrast and synthesis among the past and the future, the males and the females, simple and ornament, or different styles. Third, Nicolas's experimental and outsider-oriented view of Deconstruction through reorienting of thought is considered a try for a new formative concept as a designer who is not limited by general rules.