• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.65-77
• /
• 2013

The purposes of this study were to document the fashions adopted by young women in the United States in the 1980s and to explore if and how the dynamic shifts toward postmodernist values influenced those fashion trends. Fifteen U.S. women who were college students in the 1980s were interviewed for the study. In analysis of the data, we focused on social changes during the 1980s and the cultural impact of postmodernism vs. modernism as influential factors. Both postmodern and feminist ideas challenged the mainstream cultural framework of capitalism. U.S. women's styles and behaviors concerning dress reflected characteristics of postmodern consumption patterns, which include nostalgia, ethnic dress, androgyny, eclectic and novel clothing combinations, surprising or humorous appearance, and nonconformity. Despite the critique of conformity and conservatism in dress that had emerged in the 1960s and remained in at least minority or subversive trends, the importance of brand names and designer labels increased in mainstream fashion. This study helps us better understand the dynamics of fashion as it reflects societal and value changes in a transitional time in history.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.269-276
• /
• 2012

The aim of this study is to develop clothing size system according to each size interval for obese girls aged 10~12 by classifying the upper bodies. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. Results are as follows; 1st, 5 factors were extracted by factor analysis and 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, cylinder-type, inverted triangle-type and inverted trapezoid-type. And 2nd, as a consequence of size system establishment, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings above suggest that it is necessary to figure out the obesity types according to height and bust girth sizes representing basic sizes and to design the patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes. And it may be used as a basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.89-101
• /
• 2011

The economy blocking and price competitiveness caused by globalization has generated an on-going controversy of global sourcing among high-priced luxury brands. The consumers in the global market purchase luxury goods based on both craftsmanship and the reputation of luxury brands. Factors such as the origin, brand and pricing can affect the intention of consumers to buy luxury goods. This study analyzed the optimum brand combination using conjoint analysis. The analysis was based on the selection of origin, brand name and price as extrinsic factors among attributes of customer choice. These factors were subdivided into Italian and Chinese origins, Gucci, Prada, and Miu Miu in terms of brand names, and 450,000, 750,000, and 1,500,000 Won in terms of price levels. The result showed that origin was considered the most important factor followed by brand name and pricing. This tendency tells us that customers consider origin, brand name and price in that order when purchasing luxury brands. In regards to each factor, respondents preferred Italian to Chinese origins, the Gucci to Miu Miu brand name, and 750,000 to 450,000 won for price level. Generally, women in their 20s and 30s preferred products from advanced nations at a medium-level price.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.1 s.100
• /
• pp.32-43
• /
• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.6
• /
• pp.127-142
• /
• 2000

The names of Chinese Po corresponding to Korean Jikryung are Yesal and Jikshin. Thus the purpose of this paper is to review of the shapes and usage of Yesal and Jikshin and then make a comparative review between the twos and Jikryung having side Moo. Results of the study are described as follows : 1. The Chinese costume, Yesal is translated literally into Korean, Euisal or Euisal Jikryung and called Euisal Diknyung or Uisakot in Korean while Jikshin is translated into Korean, Jikryung and called Diknyung. 2. Yesal is a new type of clothing as created during the Ming period. The costume is the remnant type of Yosunoja and Byunsunoja in the periods of Sung and Yuan. Types of Yesal are classified into two, or one whose rear part's upper and lower areas are connected with each other and whose front part's upper and lower areas are net, the other in which those upper and lower areas are disconnected both in front and rear parts. 3. Types of Jikshin are classified into two, one having Pa and the other having loot. The latter is re-classified into two, one whose sleeve is large and wide, the whole length of which is long and which was usually worn by Sain, and the other whose sleeve is small and narrow, the whole length of which is short and which was by the grass root. 4. Yesal and Jikryung both having Pa have the almost same shapes except their front parts. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. Also the both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials from higher to lower levels. 5. Jikshin and Jikryung both having Pa have the same shapes. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. The both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials under a King and as casual costumes by Sadaeboo. In terms of color, Jikshin and Jikryung both employed red, blue and green, Especially the red color was favorably used both in China and Chosen at that time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.105-115
• /
• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.1 s.91
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 2005

Throughout the history of fashion and fashion collections, fashion design has been influenced by fine arts. Philosophy and concept of fine arts has been inspiration on the development of fashion design which brings on the close interrelation between fine arts and modern fashion. In order to analyze the affect of fine arts such as Pop art on fashion this study inquires into new perspective that considers different social contexts on the premise that acknowledges the essential difference between the genre of fine arts and design. This study researches the influence of Pop art which has been inspiration on fashion designers since the birth in the 1960s and often appears in recent fashion trends. In view of the results achieved in this study, Pop art-inspired fashion does not concern the aesthetic contemplation of everyday life in western society anonymously as in Pop art but deals with pop art as new ideas in a way that adopts images randomly from designer's convenience which is equivalent to the conception of pastiche. In addition, it was inferred that Peter Pan syndrome exert influence as a mental process and Kidult trend operate on Pop art-inspired fashion as a social phenomenon. On the basis of the theoretical background, the formative features in Pop art-inspired fashion from Spring/Summer 2000 to Spring/Summer 2004 collection has been analyzed. The results fall on the following four categories; those are the use of Pop color which resembles the Hard-edge technique in Pop art, direct appropriation of Pop art such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichitenstein's works on clothes and accessories, adaptation of Pop art's subject using brand names of mass products or icons in mass culture as design motives, and application of representation method in Pop art such as Andy Warhol's silk screen techniques or Tom Wesselman's composition of pictures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.904-910
• /
• 2009

The aim of this study is to help out-size consumers purchase the ready-made clothes and improve clothing fitness by classifying the lower bodies of abdomen-obese adult males and by setting up some size system according to each size interval of obesity types. The including criteria for subjects in this study was over 25 kg/$m^2$ of the BMI, over 90 cm of waist, and over 0.85 of WHR, and a total of 538 adult males satisfying them were enrolled. Results are as follows; 1st, the higher the age bracket was, the more increase in each age bracket's lower-degree obesity rate there was along with the more decrease in moderate-degree, while the higher the age bracket was, the more increasing tendency toward each age bracket's abdominal obesity there was. 2nd, 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, into abdominal obesity, high-degree-type, trapezoid-type and cylinder-type. And 3rd, as a consequence of size system establishment according to lower-body types, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings above suggests that it is necessary to figure out the obesity types according to waist and hip sizes representing basic sizes and to design the patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes when lower-half body clothes are designed among obesity groups. And it may be used as a basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.