• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This study set out to investigate the identity of everyday headgear, which is often found in many paintings of Tongshinsa, Joseon diplomatic missions to Japan, in the 18th century. That resembles Yu-geon儒巾, but on the top of the headgear are lappets like a roof. The study proceeded as follows: 1) The painting of Tongshjnsa parade in 1711 was used to analyze wearers of everyday headgear because titles of position are shown for each one. 2) Personal records of Tongshinsa in the 18th century were analyzed to examine the cases of everyday headgear. 3) Cases of everyday headgear in literature around the 18th century were examined. Those researches revealed three findings: 1) The names of everyday headgear with a roof shaped top are Gohu-gwan高厚冠 and Yeonyeop-gwan蓮葉冠. 2) Among Tongshinsa, wearers of Gohu-gwan or Yeonyeop-gwan are medical staff, interpreters, painters, and secretaries. However, it doesn't seem to have been distinction between the two types according to social class and position. 3) People wore everyday headgear, that resembled the two types in appearance, such as Mjnja-geon民字巾, Sunyang-geon純陽巾, Hwayang-geon華陽巾, Jeon-geon戰巾, or Jang-geon將巾 in China and Joseon around the 18th century. Among them, Sunyang-geon and Hwayang-geon seem to have had the closest relationship with Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan in terms of shape and character of wearers. The analysis of the research findings led to the two following conclusions: 1) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan were worn as one of everyday headgear to represent appearances of a scholar. 2) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan could be changed versions of the similar everyday headgear or different names of them.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.98-114
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• 2016

This research study was performed to compare between Korean traditional color and digital transfer textile printing. This would help to find the new direction to apply Korean traditional colors to modern textile industry. The objective of this study is to digitalize Korean traditional colors to be applied to modern textiles, based on research studies by previous researchers, on the actualization of Korean traditional colors for textiles. The study focused on 21 red colors among others. Digital color palette of graphic program was printed on 6 different polyester textiles by using digital transfer textile printing. Different things to be supplemented were found by comparing the results with the colors of Korean traditional standard color names. After measuring the colors, Munsell color system and CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value were measured then comparative study was performed on the measured values using 3D graphs. Measured colors of Munsell varied by color but in overall, chroma became low while brightness became high. Color characteristic of warm colors got weakened by turning into cold colors as brightness got high but yellow and red got low due to the characteristics of CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value. This study has limitations with color analysis of digital transfer textile printing due to standardization of textiles and standardization of traditional colors however it can support to actualize the colors for the design using traditional color names by visualizing the color change of digital transfer textile printing in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.148-165
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• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.111-126
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• 1999

Apparel purchase behaviors were investigated for the high school girls grouped by attitude toward fashion. Differences in attitudes toward fashion were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were collected by a self-administered questionnaire survey to 600 high school girls living in Seoul, and 480 were used for the data analysis. Cluster analysis, Chi-sguare analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan\`s multiple range test were used for data analysis. Technical school students and those who spending higher amount of monthly allowances showed favorable attitudes toward fashion. Based on the attitudes toward fashion, respondents were classified into 3 groups : fashion-oriented(32.3%), fashion-conformed(47.3%), and unconcerned(20.4%). Among the 3 groups, the Fashion-oriented tended to make purchase decision for clothing based on there own, or peer\`s opinions, to use personal sources for information search, to spend more money for clothing, and to consider design and brand names as the most important criteria when purchasing apparel products than the less fashion-oriented did. Among clothing styles popular to students, the most appropriately perceived for student wear were semi-formal style, and the least appropriate ones were wearing bold colored and patterned underwear for the purpose of showing out. Most of the popular styles among high school girls were perceived less than appropriate student\`s attire.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.38
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• pp.145-190
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• 2015

The objective of this paper is to investigate translated individual words in J. S. Gale's "Choon Yang" in comparison with its original OkJoongHwa("獄中花") while referring to early modern bilingual dictionaries and missionaries' ethnography. Gale faced a lot of translation difficulties because the source text had a very different cultural system from the object text. OkJoongHwa was a Korean pansori novel which meant it included many Korean characteristics. However, Gale considered its Korean characteristics were deeply connected with Chinese classics. Even famous people and place names cited from the Chinese classics in OkJoongHwa represented the Korean thinking. Gale tried to faithfully translate the source text as much as possible whether the words were Chinese or Korean. In this paper, we deal with mostly various translation aspects of the Chinese-letter words in OkJoongHwa. Gale's first method to translate words made of Chinese Character is transliteration, the examples of which are the name of Chinese famous people and places, and Chinese poems. The second method is to parallel transliteration and English interpretation equivalent to the Chinese Character. The examples are the names of main characters like "Spring Fragrance or Choonyang," "Mongyong, or Dream-Dragon" and in his translation of word play in Osa (Commissioner), or Kamsa (Governor), kaiksa (a dead beggar). The third is literal translation of Chinese idiomatic phrases as Gale translated 侵魚落雁 into "She'd make the fishes to sink and the wild-geese to drop from the sky." The fourth is a little free translation of the title of public office, the various names of Korean yamen servants and the unique Korean clothing and ornaments. We expect Gale's many translation difficulties as we can see the translated long list of yamen clerks and Korean clothing and ornaments. After our investigation of his translation practices in "Choon Yang" we conclude that he tried to translate its literary language very faithfully though he could not avoid inevitable loss caused by the cultural difference involved in two languages. Gale's "Choon Yang" contributed to introducing the uniqueness of the classical Korean novel and Korean culture to the world more than any other English translation works of that time through his faithful translation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.171-180
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• 2012

Purchasing behavior of brand clothes in internet shopping mall is largely used on the purpose of having a good quality of clothing, price advantage and shopping efficiency. This study aims to find out consumer's evaluation on the properties of brand clothes in internet shopping mall according to consumer's brand attitude(brand identification and brand pursue value). The influences consumers' evaluation of the properties of brand clothes on the purchase satisfaction and off-line brand image evaluation were also investigated. This study surveyed male and female consumers in their 20s~40s for empirical analysis in August 2011 who have purchased brand clothing through internet shopping malls. The survey was conducted on 254 subjects who were selected through online convenience sampling. Data were analyzed by using SPSS for Windows 12.0, and descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and regression analysis were done as well. The results are as follows. First, it was identified that consumers' brand identification and brand pursue value had significant influence on the evaluation of physical, functional, and expressional product properties. Second, it was identified that consumers' evaluation on the brand clothing properties significantly influenced on internet purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. Especially, expressive property of brand clothes appeared to be the most influential factor on purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. The results of this study will help clothing companies with prestigious brand names to administer the product qualities with differentiation policy from off-line sales and satisfy the consumer needs in internet shopping, hence enhancing the brand image of the company.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.38-51
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• 2003

Peking Opera, one of a representative Chinese dramas, is a synthesis of drama and stage art. Peking Opera's stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though its style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty's clothing style. The special patterns in the clothing were very important because they classified social rankings. There are two kinds of roles in Peking Opera. Sheng stands for male roles and Dan stands for female roles though Dan had traditionally been acted by male actors with female attire until the ruling of the People's Republic of China. There are five different kinds Peking Opera's stage costume. First, Mang is a formal dress for kings and generals. It is a very delicate long Po with special patterns. It has several names depending on the color and shape of a dragon. Second, Pee is a casual attire for kings, government officials, and their families. It is also a long Po with front opening and symmetrical neckline. Third, Kao is an armor of warrior which is made not for protection in a real war but for ornament of a formal dress. Kao reflects the wearer's authority when the wearer stays still, but it is a comfortable clothing for big dancing moves once the wearer starts dancing. The wearer puts a banner into the shoulder to alarm tension of a war. Fourth, Cheup is an outfit that one wears the left part adjust to the top. There are different lengths of Cheup and it has a straight neckline. There are twenty-one different kinds of Cheup according to its shape and color. Last, Yi is name for the rest of Peking Opera's stage costume other than Mang, Pee, Kao, and Cheup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.80-100
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• 2014

As men have started to show more desire to express themselves through clothing and accessories also they learn by themselves and take diverse experiences about fashion. At the same time, men's fashion-consciousness is growing together. The role of male consumers' is becoming significant in the fashion market, and there has been more research on their clothes and fashion is increasing, however research on the male casual clothing for their 30~49 years old group is still insufficient. This study aims to examine the casual brands for men in their 30~40s and their characteristics among other men's brands recently appearing in Korea. The results of the study found: first, regarding the questionnaire to give men's casual brand names, 30s males' answers showed clearer recognition about the casual brand than those of 40s males. secondly, the factors affecting attitude of male consumers' towards casual brands are designed 'aesthetics', 'surroundings' and 'price', and the men in their 40s put more important than men in their 30s on 'aesthetics' and 'surroundings'. third, when men were actually buying casual brand, they then took five characteristic factors into account namely: 'the external environment', 'functionality' design 'aesthetics', 'symbolic' and 'price'. Men in their 30s did not show much difference in actual purchase characteristics in regards for the brand factors but men in their 40s showed interest when asked about 'buying product with noticeable brand logo or trademark' item among 'symbolic' factors than men in their 30s (p< .01 of significant difference).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.112-121
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• 2007

Gamtu was a name recorded in Korean in respect of 'Mo(帽), Moja(帽子), Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾)' from the beginning to the end of Joseon dynasty which includes various shapes and uses according to wordbook. Also, Gamtu has various phonetic transcriptions, however Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtoo' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$ so the origin of the word Gamtu should be discussed. Accordingly, I want to clearly define the concept of Gamtu in this research by studying the history and shape of Gamtu, and Chinese entries annotated in Korean as Gamtu. Even though we can assume that the etymology of Gamtu is Manchu language as Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtu' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$, I think the Korean pronunciation of Gamtu already existed because there already was a Chinese transcription of 'Gamtu' in the Goryeosa(高麗史). So, we can conjecture that Gamtu could be originated from Yeojin language which is the same lineage of Manchu. As a conclusion, Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Moja(帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾) had a common feature that they were produced to fit head without visor, and were annotated as Gamtu per woolen cloth was used as Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), and Gamtu was just a Korean transcription that includes these names.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.233-247
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose a specialized clothes-sizing system for elderly (aged 60~79) obese women satisfying the following conditions based on the data from the fifth Korean Agency for Technology and Standards (2004): a Rohrer's index of over 1.6, a BMI of over 25, and a WHR of over 0.85. The lower bodies of elderly obese women tends to be shorter and wider than average. Particularly, their torsos from the chest to the waist tend to be more obese than other areas. According to the KS standards, the clothes-sizing system sets up its size intervals as follows: 5cm in stature, 5cm and 3cm in bust, 3cm in waist, and 3cm in hip. Based on the dualistic distribution of each section, the names of the sections indicating high distribution are suggested. For suit tops, 11 sizes are selected as distributed in the 145-155cm stature section and 91-103cm bust section. For casual tops, nine sizes are selected as distributed in the 145-155cm stature section and 90-105cm bust section. For bottoms, 11 sizes are selected as distributed in the 82-97cm waist section and 91-97cm hip section. According to the KS standards, detailed sizes are suggested in the division of basic and reference areas.