• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.561-574
• /
• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.296-309
• /
• 2020

Carol Christian Poell is a designer famous for experimental designs and presentations. Poell's actions in the fashion-world resemble Fluxus, an anti-art group that started working in the 1950s. This study analyzed the works of Poell based on the characteristics of Fluxus and then compared the works of Poell with the performance of Nam June Paik, a Fluxus artist. We conducted literature studies and case studies. We examined the works of Poell and Paik based on the four characteristics of Fluxus: iconoclasm, unity of art and life, playfulness and chance. The results were as follows. First, they were engaged in anti-aesthetic works. While Paik concentrated on the content aspect of works, Poell was more focused on formal aspects. Second, neither of them distinguished between art and life. Paik achieved it by including audiences in his works; however, Poell attained it by adopting daily spaces as a place to display presentations and use ready-made forms. Third, they showed playfulness with a satirical nuance. Paik expressed it in an erotic way; however, Poell implied it through the irrational settings of circumstance. Finally, they created works by utilizing chance. Paik focused on auditory elements and the content aspects of works; however, Poell used the coincidence of visual and tactile elements when creating his works. This study compared the works of Poell with Paik and has its significance in its usefulness to understand designers with Fluxus characteristics in the fashion industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.763-776
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.267-278
• /
• 2005

Fashion luxury products, which used to mean high-quality, handcrafted not-so-trendy items, are nowadays regarded as expensive fashion merchandise produced under the name of imported well-known brands. People cunsuming fashion luxury products distinguish themselves from other people according to the luxury fashion brands they are using, and as a result, advertisements of fashion luxury products are taken as a kind of international language. The purpose of this study is to point out the socio-cultural meanings of consuming fashion luxury products, by analyzing images shown in advertisements of fashion luxury products focusing on women's images. To do so, this study is based on general theoretical background on fashion, consumer culture advertising and analysis advertisements of fashion luxury products shown in fashion magazines in recent three years. The result of this study is as follows; The images of the advertisements of fashion luxury products could be categorized as (1) elegance, (2) kitsch and (3) fetish. Elegance is a taste of high society, aesthetically chic and feminine. Fashion luxury products, which are merchandise of extravagance, dignity, refinement, feminity and harmony, exhibit high-quality grace through their advertisements. Kitsch represents the vulgar and popular images of trivial commodities of industrial society. In the advertisement of fashion luxury product, it is shown as inappropriateness, excessiveness, stereotyped pleasantness, exaggeration an playful satisfaction. Finally, fetish images represent erotic or perverted sexuality, based on psychoanalytic fetishism which objects are regarded s substitute of sexual orgasm. The advertisements of fashion luxury product are characterized as (1) popularization of luxury, (2) objectification of sex and body, and (3) re-aestetification of anti-aesthetics. The asvertisements of fashion luxury products are actually targeted to the middle class with successful career women's images. They objectify female bodies through fetishistic images. Also, the deviant subcultural style, represented a new kind of cultural capital, is now reproduced as a new commodity aesthetics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.812-825
• /
• 2008

This article analyzed fashion representations in France posters, especially the late 19th century France when mass consumption cultures arose. That was analyzed by consumers' sexuality supposed in advertisement contents. Female models mainly figured in posters of the late 19th century France made a role to promote consumption, in which female models were emphasized on fashion, for example, erotic robe, unusual hair style and etc. Posters' type in this period were categorized in three types by presenting style of female body and fashion style. The first were targeting female consumers, and that posters represented bourgeois fashion styles and life styles to clear consumers' social status and to present women's consuming power. The second case was targeting male consumers, and that posters figured female models such as available products. In this case, poster artists emphasized female models' sexualities and used fantasies against eroticism of the legs and feet. And third case was targeting female consumers and males', in this case, two different aspects were required to appealing to consumers. One was to use a female sexuality to appeal for male consumers, the other was to modify female models as transcendental being such like a muse admirable and mysterious, through fashion styles for female consumers. In the late 19th century, female body and fashion were spectacular elements in visual arts specifically. This study clarified representations of female body and fashion in the late 19th century posters according to poster's contents and target consumer's sexuality. This was one of the aspects characterizing early advertisement media.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.148-156
• /
• 2015

Some of Chekhov's short stories strongly depicted 'women' physical desire and the sins of the flesh. Chekhov created his own eroticism in life as it is through the stories. While the Chekhovian eroticism naturally emphasized on 'sensual issue' between men and women, it is not limited to the erotic expressions only. In the stories, Chekhov is saying about the fundamental causes that why women must cheat on their men, so that he focused on their mental conflicts between corporalities and morality. Finally, women' infidelity and deviance make them cause misfortunes more than ever. Focusing on the best Chekhovian eroticism short stories, , , and , the writer explores Chekhovian eroticism's background and definition, and characteristics by analysis each text deeply.

• Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
• /
• v.26 no.2
• /
• pp.121-126
• /
• 1988

Efficacy of praBiquantel (CesocideB injection) by intramuscular (1.M.) route against cestode infections was evaluated. Total 93 domestic or laboratory animals such as dogs, cats, rats, mice, goats, deers and chickens were used. Animals were infected with Dipylidium caninum, Spirometra sp. , Taenia pisiformis, Taenia taeniaeformis, Hymenolepis nana, Moniegia expanse, Moniexia sp. or Raillietina sp. A single dose of prasiquantel, 6 mg/kg of body weight, was highly effective (97.9%) against cestodes of various kinds disregarding the host species or their intensity of infection. At higher dose above 6 mg/kg, the cure rate was 100%. All the cestodes treated were expelled from the host within 48 hours. The discharged proglottides were damaged severely except Hymenolepis nana and Moniegia expanse. Intramuscular injection of this drug evoked a brief pain response in a dog, but no other side reactions were observed.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.1
• /
• pp.86-91
• /
• 2004

Changes in erotic acid (OA) contents of raw milk and during cultivation and storage at refrigerated temperature were determined. OA contents of raw and 10% reconstituted milk held at $121^{\circ}C$ for up to 15 min decreased by 17.6 and 22.4%, and those fermented at 40 and $37^{\circ}C$ for 72 hr with Lactobacillus helveticus 166 and Lactobacillus casei 955 decreased 37.8-43.2 and 41.8-76%, whereas when fermented at $40^{\circ}C$ for 72 hr with Streptococcus thermophilus ST-37, did not decrease significantly compared with fermentation by other lactobacilli. OA content did not change during storage at refrigeration temperature. OA reduction by Lactobacillus sp. was dramatically increased at the initiation of stationary phase during fermentation. OA reduction varied among different lactobacilli. These results show decrease in cultivation time, rapid cooling of yogurt, and proper selection of Lactobacillus sp. prevent OA content reduction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.33-45
• /
• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.32
• /
• pp.163-182
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.