• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

This research proposes a pattern making method for women's bodice by the characters of body types and develops bodice dress forms on their body shapes applying 3D body scan data. 515 women's body scan data was collected and analyzed factor and cluster analysis. Three body types were characterized in normal, obese, and slim group. In each group, 10 subjects were selected. 20 parts in 3D anthropometric data were measured using Autocad program. The amount of waist dart was calculated and three types of basic bodice pattern were developed using the calculated darts data. The amount and the position of front dart and side dart were different at obese group in comparison of normal and thin group. The three types of basic bodice model were made by the basic bodice pattern, and each model was scanned by 3D scanner to make 3D bodice dress forms. Three types of bodice dress forms were rendered using 3D max program. Bodice dress forms had the dart lines and were useful to draft patterns to fit their body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.347-353
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a suitable basic bodice pattern of Male Sports Athletes by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D virtual twin and garment simulation, new bodice pattern considered male sports athletes was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; surplus of chest girth=9, surplus of back length=1, armhole depth=back length/4+13, half back width=chest girth/5+2.5, front chest width=chest girth/5+3. 2. Wearing test by 3D virtual garment simulation system was useful to evaluate wearing outline, surplus of clothes and garment space. Also it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new bodice pattern is appropriate for the male sports athletes. New bodice pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of chest and waist. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.93-114
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.23 no.11
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• pp.111-122
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.