Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2018.20.6.713

A Comparative Analysis of the Draping Method in Basic Bodice  

Kim, Young-Mi (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
Jang, Jeong-Ah (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Research Institute of Ecology for the Elderly, Pusan National University)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.20, no.6, 2018 , pp. 713-721 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.
Keywords
draping; draping educational textbook; basic bodice; draping method; appearance evaluation;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 5  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Armstrong, H. J. (2013). Draping for apparel design(3rd ed.). New York: Fairchild.
2 Crawford, C. A. (1996). The art of fashion draping(2nd ed.). New York: Fairchild.
3 Hilde, J., & Nurie, R. (1973). Draping for fashion design. New York:Reston.
4 Hong, S. A., & Lee, J. H. (2011). Comparative analysis of domestic university's curriculum in the field of clothing construction for activating fashion business. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 35(11), 1399-1408. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.11.1399   DOI
5 Jeon, E. J., Park, S. K., You, H. C., & Kim, H. E. (2016). Development of a sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on 3D data analysis of korean older women. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 18(1), 120-129. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.1.120   DOI
6 Kim, H. E. (1999). A study on curriculum and teaching method for the dept. of fashion design in college. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 46, 89-108.
7 Kim, Y. M., & Jang, J. A. (2017). A comparative analysis of the draping cutting method in basic skirts. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 23(4), 161-172. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2017.23.4.161   DOI
8 Lee, J. Y. (1991). A study on the drafting method according to the somatotype. Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, 15(3), 309-320.
9 Kim, K. A., & Cho, K. S. (2017). Analysis of curriculum in the field of clothing construction fashion related courses - Focusing on four years domestic university -. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 41(2), 242-253. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2017.41.2.242   DOI
10 Lee, K. S., Song, W. Y., & Jang, J. M. (2012). 패션 드레이핑(기초편) [Fashion draping(Basic)]. Seoul: Shinkwang.
11 Lee, M. H., & Kang, J. H. (2004). A study on comparison of bodice patterns by draping and flat pattern method. The Journal of Living Culture Research, 18, 27-44.
12 Lee, Y. J. (1999). A comparative study of the flat pattern with the draping pattern for the slacks pattern of obesity women. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 8(2), 289-299.
13 Park, E. H., & Chung, H. S. (2000). A study on the patterns of art nouveau silhouette by draping design. The Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 50(1), 5-22.
14 Jang, J. H., & Yang, C. E. (2005). A study on the torso pattern for plus sized women by draping. Family and Environment Research, 43(10), 179-190.
15 Song, M. R. (2013). 立體裁斷 [Draping]. Seoul: Soohaksa.
16 Park, G. A. (2017). Analysis of bodice patterns developed through draping method using the dress form representing Korean female fashion models' body features. Journal of Fashion Business, 21(1), 74-87. doi:10.12940/jfb.2017.21.1.74   DOI
17 Seo, W. S., & Kang, S. H. (2010). 입체패턴 [Fashion draping]. Seoul:Kyungchunsa.
18 Seong, W. K., & Han, M. S. (2008). Classification on the upper trunk shapes of the women in 20-30s by tight fitting technique. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(3), 349-361. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.3.349   DOI
19 Shin, J. H., & Rha, S. I. (2003). An analysis of pattern-related works of designer's brand in Korea - For draping -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(2), 208-218.
20 Son, H. J. (2003). Comparison of effectiveness of wearing two different brassieres made by draping method: Stretchable versus unstretchable(cotton) textile. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(3), 447-457.
21 Yang, J. E., Kim, Y. W., Lee, E. K., & Lee, H. Y. (2007). A comparative study of the draping pattern based of setting waist base line of dress form. Korea Journal of Human Ecology, 16(5), 969-977. doi:10.5934/KJHE.2007.16.5.969   DOI
22 Yang, K. H. (2006). 드레이핑 입문(기본 상의편) [Introduction of draping(Basic bodices)]. Seoul: Ecomoda.