• Human Ecology Research
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.279-292
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• 2016

This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권7호
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• pp.1004-1014
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권7호
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• pp.758-769
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• 2003

In this research, I classified adult women's back types through anthropometric measurement and photographic measurement to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, Ⅰ calculated regression fomula by types and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 5 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 75.89% of total variance. 2. According to the cluster analysis, Ⅰclassified the back types into 6 types. Type 1 was passive posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 2 was active posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 3 had the lowest protrusion of the back. Type 4 had the upper part of the back which is mostly bent downward. Type 5 was the most suitable shape. Type 6 had the lower part of the back which was turned over the most. 3. Ⅰconducted a discriminant analysis to judge the body types of individuals. 4. For the calculation of measurements necessary for the basic bodice pattern, Ⅰpresented regression formulas by each type. 5. By conducting the wearing experiments, Ⅰsuccessfully made the final basic bodice patterns by types. As a result of comparative experiments between the basic bodice patterns and comparison bodice pattern, the suitability of basic bodice patterns were more highly assessed.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.427-440
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• 2016

This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

대학에서 의류학과 교육은 그 목적에 따라 다양하나 의복구성은 의복제작과정을 이해하는데 필요한 것으로 의복디자인분야 부터 품질관리에 이르기까지 기본과목으로 되어있다. 의복제작은 인체의 이해에 따른 기본원형의 설계로 시작된다. 기본원형은 활용이 다양하여 모든 종목의 의복 패턴 제작이 가능해야 한다. 또한 각 인체 치수에 맞는 사이즈를 등급화하여 초보자라도 누구나 활용할 수 있는 기본원형을 설계하는 것이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구는 20대 초반의 대학생을 대상으로 입체재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 제작하여 등급별로 표준화된 치수를 산출하고 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 길의 기본원형을 비교 검정하여 적합성을 비교하였다. 석고법에 의하여 제작된 인체모형에서 드레이핑된 기본원형과 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 비교 검정한 결과 5단계로 치수를 등급화 하였다. 착장평가 결과 다양한 체형에 만족힌 결과를 얻어 의복구성을 시작하는 초보자들에게 활용하여 교육할 수 있으리라 기대한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.189-196
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to develop a computer program for automatic dart manipulation, as well as basic pattern making, of women's front bodice. In addition to accuracy and efficiency In pattern making, this computer program provides variations of basic patterns through dart manipulation. AutoCAD, running on the Austin 486DX micro-computer is used for this research. The procedures of this study are as follows : 1. A pattern-making method for women's front bodice is selected. 2. All co-ordinate points are located following the same way and order of drafting. 3. Drafting of a basic front bodice is programmed 4. Functions for various single dart manipulations are defined. 5. Menu-driven user interface is developed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.