• Title/Summary/Keyword: textile conservation

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The Comparison of Consumer Characteristics according to Purchasing Experience of Secondhand Fashion Goods (중고패션제품의 구매경험에 따른 소비자 특성)

  • Park, Hyun-Hee;Choo, Tae-Gue
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.909-916
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    • 2011
  • This study explored the differences in consumer characteristics-consumer self-confidence, attitude toward, trust and purchase intention for secondhand fashion goods, self-confidence in fashion coordination, price sensitivity for fashion product, and environment conservation consciousness-according to purchasing experience of secondhand fashion goods. A set of questionnaire was administered to 400 university students in Daegu from 18 to 28 April 2011. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, frequency, t-tests. Secondhand fashion goods shoppers were 135(37%) and non-shoppers were 230(63%). The difference analysis results between the two groups were as follows. First, in consumer self-confidence, shoppers showed higher than non-shoppers except persuasion knowledge, and there was no difference in marketplace interfaces between the two groups. Second, there were significant differences in attitude toward secondhand fashion goods, trust and purchase intention for secondhand fashion goods between the two groups. Third, shoppers had higher self-confidence in fashion coordination than non-shoppers, but there was no difference in environment conservation consciousness and price sensitivity for fashion product between the two groups. For future study, it is suggested to find out more general characteristics of secondhand fashion goods shoppers covering other age brackets.

A Study on the Methodology of Excavated-Costumes - With a Focus on the Cases of Excavated Costumes from the Grave of Nor Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family - (출토복식 보수방법에 관한 고찰 - 경주노씨 수함(1516~1573)공(公) 일가(一家) 출토복식 사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Chung, Young-Ran;Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.7
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    • pp.65-78
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    • 2013
  • This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

Conservation and Reproduction of Cheongpung Buwongun Kim Wumyeong's Funeral Bier (청풍부원군 김우명 상여의 보존 및 복제)

  • Jeong, Jaeung;Huh, Ilkwon;Park, Seungwon;Yi, Yonghee
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.14
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    • pp.91-113
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    • 2013
  • Cheongpung Buwongun Kim Wu-myeong's Funeral Bier, an important folklore cultural property No.120, possessed by Chuncheon National Museum was donated in 2002 (by Kim Seonggu). It consists of a bier, yoyeo(腰輿), myeongjeongdae(銘旌臺), and manjangdae(輓章臺). It has a high value as the oldest royal bier. The bier which had a resting time in the storage for special exhibition of "The great cultural treasure of Gangwon province" was inspected in September 2012 and colored pigment layer of the wooden part had the risk of peeling off and surface damage of the textile was serious. Therefore, conservation treatment was conducted. In addition, knots and susiks(垂飾) were severely damaged and their exhibition was impossible. Therefore, a reproduction to replace them through a close investigation was made. All parts of the funeral bier were in separation except for the basic furniture. Conservation was made by dividing the parts into wooden parts and textile parts. Yoyeo was reinforced after disassembling bujae from it and then was reassembled. Paraloid B-72 2 wt% (in ethyle acetate), acrylic resin, was applied to the wooden part of the bier in order to reinforce the colored pigment layer with the addition of sodium alginate 2 wt%(in stilled water) and glue 4 wt%(in stilled water). The pollutants on the surface of the textile part were removed (vacuuming) and its creases were smoothed out (steaming). Fat-soluble pollutants were removed using an nonionic surfactant(Saponin, concentration at 0.25 to 0.5 g/𝑙, in de-ionized water). After the disassembly of the yoyeo from the broken wooden, it was bonded with glue (3 wt% for the first gluing, 35 wt% for gluing), and pine wood was used to restore missing parts. In the process of connecting Wongak(雲角), the original metal hinge and nails were reused to complete the assembly.

Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Sulfur Dioxide (이산화황에 의한 전통직물의 손상 특성)

  • Kim, Myoung Nam;Lim, Bo A;Shin, Eun Jeong;Lee, Sun Myung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.321-328
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    • 2012
  • A $SO_2$ gas acceleration test was carried out on four textile groups (silk, cotton, ramie cloth, hemp cloth) which were categoried in five categories by the dyeing materials (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black) and the relation between the concentration of $SO_2$ and deterioration rate was evaluated. The textiles were exposed to 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, and 5000 ppm of $SO_2$ for 24 hours and the optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates were studied. An optical change was identified as the color difference and grey scale rating (colorfastness) enhanced with the increase of gas concentration while there was little physical change. Chemical damage was caused by the acidification of the textile material due to the trapped sulfate ion concentration. The result of optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates shows that 1 ppm/day $SO_2$ is a critical level of deterioration of traditional textiles.

The Production Techniques of a Gilt-Bronze Buckle with Arabesque Design (금동당초문과대의 제작기법 연구)

  • Kim, Sun Duk;Park, Hak Soo
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 1998
  • The production techniques of a gilt-bronze buckle which was presumably a product of the Koryo dynasty were investigated. The X-ray area map indicates that the gilt layer was made by gilt-bronze method. EDS analysis shows that the gilt layer contains copper as well as gold. The microstructure of a textile adhered to the back of the buckle reveals that the material is woven hemp. Triangular and semicircular chisels were used to engrave patterns. After the boundaries of the patterns were engraved with triangular chisels the internal regions were carved with semicircular patterns. The procedure and the shape of the chisels were also investigated.

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Identification of Fibers of Samsebul (Triple Buddha Statues) at Bonghwangsa in Andong (안동 봉황사 삼세불 제작에 사용된 섬유의 동정)

  • Cho, Kyoung-Sil;Baek, Young-Mee
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.297-303
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    • 2012
  • Samsebul, the altar portrait behind the statue of Buddha in the main building of Bonghwang temple in Andong, has been designated as Tangible Cultural Property No. 406. These alter portraits have significance as the standard of the research of Samsebul in Joseon period. In this study, fibre of the ground textile is identified using microscopic examination, solubility test, ATR-FT-IR, SEM, XRD. Two samples from Yaksabul(A, B), one sample from Seokgabul(C), and one sample from Amitabul(D), which were collected during the conservation process, were prepared for this study. In previous record, above samples were documented as hemp. Due to severe deterioration and accumulated dust layers on these samples, it was hard to recognize them with naked eyes, but through this study, we could identify that all samples except one from Yaksabul(A) are silk.

A Study on the Manufacturing Technique of Goryeo Lacquered Box (고려 나전국화넝쿨무늬합의 제작기법 연구)

  • Park, Su Zin;Song, Jung Il;Kim, Han Seul;Jo, Ah Hyeon;Park, JongSeo
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.36 no.6
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    • pp.483-493
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    • 2020
  • In this paper, we present a nondestructive analysis using X-ray and microscopic investigation to detect the structure, manufacturing technique and preservation status of the Goryeo lacquered box Inlaid with Mother-of-pearl Chrysanthemum and Scroll Design (Goryeo Lacquered Box). We confirm that the Goryeo Lacquered Box consists of the soft wood as the basic material. The soft wood was coated with textile and then lacquered. The box structure of the Goryeo Lacquered Box was formed of wooden boards with wood plants added to the side, after processing into a trefoil-shaped. The wooden sides of the Goryeo Lacquered Box were cut at regular intervals for easier processing into a curved shape. Moter-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, and metal wire were used to decorate the surface. mother-of pearl was the cutting processing, and tortoiseshell was used for back coloring. The metal line was constructed using one line and twist line.

Based on the Perspective of Sustainability, the Characteristics of Upcycle Fashion Design (지속가능성의 관점에 기초한 업사이클 패션 디자인의 특성)

  • Kwan, Jung-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.13-23
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    • 2012
  • "Sustainability" and buzzword as in many areas of products produced and studies in progress, in situations of domestic "green fashion" of the Progress and identify problems and advanced in value sustained growth that can be done fashion design, the future of the gauge view there is need. For the purpose of environmental protection and resource conservation of the eco-fashion trend, "recycling" of the low-growth, emphasizing the ethical responsibility to pursue by the aesthetics may be limited in terms of avoided. Environment, most notably an "issue" fashion emerged as a growing, destroying a temporary fashion trend as a "recycling" of the limitations and pro-technology and design of the added value of recombinant and advanced recycling design trends, attracting attention "upcycle" Case of the aesthetic value and spiritual value of the designer by giving understanding and a new aesthetic values to the area you want to raise the possibility of extension.

섬유질유물의 포화(Degradation)에 영향을 주는 요인들에 대한 연구

  • Bae, Sang-Gyeong
    • 보존과학연구
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    • s.11
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 1990
  • The environmental controls for good conservation of all textile materials are follow as :1) Special RH conditions on textiles keep to the usually advocated 50∼55%.2) The effect of the temperature is too small to worry about in the applicable range, that is $20^{\circ}C$.3) It is important to keep soiling by air borne dirt to a minimum by an air filter or putting textiles in cases.4) Sulphur dioxide must be rekoved by an activated carbon filter or a water spray. And this concentration below $50\muGm^3$ can be regarded assatisfactory.5) Oxygen plays a part of deterioration proceses. The effect of nitrogend andinert gases in sealed show cases should be further studied.6) Ozone is detrimental to textiles. It can be removed by activated carbonfilter.7) The removal of UV radiation and blue light can be expected to increase the lifetime of dyeing and strength of fiber.50 lux is suggested for sensitive textile materials.

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Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon (16~17세기 출토염직품의 염료와 매염제 분석)

  • Baek, Young-Mee;Kwon, Young-Suk;Goto-Doshida, Sumiko;Saito, Masako
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.119-129
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    • 2012
  • Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.