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http://dx.doi.org/10.12654/JCS.2012.28.2.119

Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon  

Baek, Young-Mee (The Korean Traditional Costume Research Institute, Pusan National University)
Kwon, Young-Suk (Department of Clothing and Textiles, Pusan National University)
Goto-Doshida, Sumiko (Department of Home Economics, Aikoku Gakuen Junior College)
Saito, Masako (Department of Textile and Clothing, Kyoritsu Women's University)
Publication Information
Journal of Conservation Science / v.28, no.2, 2012 , pp. 119-129 More about this Journal
Abstract
Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.
Keywords
Excavated textiles; 16~17th century; Daejeon; Dye analysis by HPLC-PDA; Mordant analysis by SEM-EDX;
Citations & Related Records
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