• Title/Summary/Keyword: subculture

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A study of Postmodernism Expressed in the Late 20th Century Fashion (20세기 후반 패션에 표현된 포스트모더니즘 연구)

  • 정현숙;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.502-515
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this thesisis to show that, on the basis of a reconstructed theoretical framework of postmodernisuL the seemingly chaotic phenomena in recent fashion specta ole- i.e. extensive eclecticism and deconstruction of styles - can be systematically explained and that it is by no means a transient anomaly. The main task of this thesis is to distill out from the apparently chaotic scene in the Catwalk such distinctive features as 1. the bona fide postmodern subculture fashion as a non-mainstream,2. the subculture elements introduced in the mainstream, pastiche a la Jameson. Our theoretical framework enables us to establish these features as the necessary outcomes and tendencies of postmodern logic.

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A Study of Postrnodern Phenomenon in Clothings for German youth (청소년 의상에 나타난 포스트모더니즘 현상)

  • 홍기현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.581-588
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    • 1997
  • Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

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The Influence of the Youth Culture on the Street Fashion - On the Focus in 1960s - (청소년(靑少年) 문화(文化)가 스트리트 패션에 미친 영향(影響) - 1960년대(年代)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kan, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.35-48
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

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Improvement of ex vitro acclimatization of mulberry plantlets by supplement of abscisic acid to the last subculture medium

  • Huh, Yoon Sun;Lee, Joung Kwan;Nam, Sang Young
    • Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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    • v.44 no.4
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    • pp.431-437
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    • 2017
  • Mulberry (Morus sp.) of the family Moraceae is very economically important in Asian countries including Korea, because its leaf and fruit have been commercially used in sericulture and horticultural industries. Therefore it is necessary to develop the optimal production system for rapid and cost-effective propagation of mulberry. Our studies focused on establishing an acclimatization method for the successful plantlet production of new cultivar 'Cheongsu' which was transferred ex vitro after in vitro culture. In particular, effect of abscisic acid (ABA) addition into the last subculture medium on plantlet response to subsequent ex vitro transfer and its growth was investigated. During acclimatization, stomatal conductance and transpiration rate of ABA-pretreated plantlets were significantly lower than those of non-treated plantlets. Net photosynthetic rate of ABA-pretreated plantlets decreased after ex vitro transfer but increased after 14 days, and it was mostly higher than that of non-treated plantlets. Moreover, relative water content as well as chlorophyll contents and its ratio were also higher in ABA-pretreated plantlets. On the other hand, proline was considerably higher than in control plantlets. After 1 month of ex vitro transfer, survival rate of ABA-pretreated plantlets was 85.6%, which increased by 29.1% in comparison with control (56.5%). More vigorous growth was also observed in ABA-pretreated plantlets. From these results, it was found that application of ABA to the last subculture medium could improve acclimatization and promote survival of mulberry plantlets after ex vitro transfer, inducing water stress tolerance and alleviating abiotic stresses.

A Study on the Formation Factors of Grotesque Image expressed in Fashion (복식에 표현된 그로테스크 이미지의 형성 요인에 관한 연구)

  • 남미현
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.43-54
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    • 2002
  • Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

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Selection of High Anthocyanin-Producing Cells from Habituated Callus Derived from Purple Sweetpotato (자색고구마 습관성캘러스로부터 안토시아닌 고생합성 세포주 선발)

  • Park, Hye-Jeong;Kim, Yoon-Sil;Park, Hyeon-Yong
    • Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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    • v.34 no.1
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    • pp.19-24
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    • 2007
  • Callus induction using leaf of purple sweetpotato (PSP) was decreased when subcultured. So we selected habituated callus in MS medium supplemented with $1{\mu}M\;2,4-D$ (2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid) after 6 months of cultures (without subculture). It grew faster and easier than any other callus. It was able to proliferate in MS hormone free solid and liquid medium without any growth regulators and subculture limits. During subculture in liquid medium, a purple mottled spot formed in one of habituated cell aggregates without any treatment. This purple cell aggregates were carefully separated from habituated cell aggregates, and then subcultured by selecting purple cell aggregates for more than 2 years to be isolated. The color value of the pigment extracted of culture was 1.0 mg/mL, which was close to that of a pigment extracted from storage root, which was 1.5 mg/mL. This purple cell aggregates could therefore be used for the industrial mass production of anthocyanin.

Factors Influencing Drinking of Employees: Focus on the White Collar Employees (직장인의 음주에 영향을 미치는 요인에 관한 연구: 사무직 직장인을 중심으로)

  • Kweon, Gu-Young
    • Korean Journal of Social Welfare
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    • v.57 no.2
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    • pp.93-118
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    • 2005
  • This research examined influence of job stress and drinking subculture on the drinking of white collar employees. The results are as follows: First, there are a higher percentage of population among white collar employees who hold drinking problems in terms of frequency of drinking, amount of drinking, frequency of binge drinking comparing with general populace. The results of research revealed that drinking problems of white collar employees is quite close to dangerous level. Second, job stress didn't display a consistent relationship with drinking and drinking problem, however, drinking subculture revealed that it was related with drinking and drinking problem exhibiting significant influence. And, the results of research didn't support tension reduction hypothesis, and it was identified that social learning theory is main factor that will explain drinking and drinking problem of white collar employees. Therefore, researcher suggested as follow; First, practitioners and researchers exert their efforts for studying about drinking in the relationship to white collar employees. They should also have more interests in the topic from a practical perspective. Second, suggest that EAPs be introduced in order to prevent white collar employees from drinking problem and to promote increase of entire welfare. Third, suggest that succeeding research endeavors be required, which shall embrace all of white & blue collar employees.

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A Study on Formative Characteristic of Subculture Style in 20C Fashion -Focused on Hair Style - (20세기 패션에 나타난 하위문화 스타일의 조형성에 관한 연구 - 헤어스타일을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Jeong-Mee;Seol, Yu-Jin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.225-232
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    • 2006
  • This study purposed to review the concept and characteristics of subculture theoretically and then to analyze subcultural hairstyles shown in the 20th century's fashion in terms of form, structure, texture, design line and design principle, which were formative factors of beauty art. The range of this study was from the 1950's to the 1990's, during which subcultural hairstyles, which were selected for this study, kept a unique formality as subcultural characteristics of each time were reflected in hairstyles. The hairstyles found in subcultural styles were reviewed as follows. From the formative analysis as the above, it was concluded that layer form was seen most frequently in the subcultural hairstyles. This may be because it has a lot of layers in hair, and enables to make more various forms with a simpler care than other hairstyles so that it is easy to show one's own characteristic or differentiate oneself from others. Thanks to the characteristics of layer form, horizontal and convex were often seen as design lines. As for a texture, straight often appeared. The texture of straight is naturally formed without any care applied on hair. The reason may be that most subcultures refused artificiality. Therefore, the characteristics of subcultural hairstyles may be that hairstyles are transformed into various forms and created into the styles appropriately for individual tastes so as to clearly express one's own idea and thought.

Evaluation of Negative Results of BacT/Alert 3D Automated Blood Culture System

  • Kocoglu M. Esra;Bayram Aysen;Balcl Iclal
    • Journal of Microbiology
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    • v.43 no.3
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    • pp.257-259
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    • 2005
  • Although automated continuous-monitoring blood culture systems are both rapid and sensitive, false-positive and false-negative results still occur. The objective of this study, then, was to evaluate negative results occurring with BacT/Alert 3D blood culture systems. A total of 1032 samples were cultured with the BacT/Alert 3D automated blood culture system, using both aerobic (BPA) and anaerobic (BPN) media, and 128 of these samples yielded positive results. A total of 904 negative blood samples were then subcultured in $5\%$ sheep blood agar, eosin methylene blue, chocolate agar, and sabouraud-dextrose agar. Organisms growing on these subcultures were subsequently identified using both Vitek32 (bioMerieux, Durham, NC) and conventional methods. Twenty four $(2.6\%)$ of the 904 subcultures grew on the subculture media. The majority $(83.3\%)$ of these were determined to be gram-positive microorganisms. Fourteen $(58.3\%)$ were coagulase-negative staphylococci, two $(8.3\%)$ were Bacillus spp., one $(4.2\%)$ was Staphylococcus aureus, and one $(4.2\%)$ was identified as Enterococcus faecium. Streptococcus pneumoniae and Neisseria spp. were isolated together in two $(8.3\%)$ vials. Gram-negative microorganisms comprised $12.5\%$ of the subcultures, of which two $(8.3\%)$ were found to be Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and one $(4.2\%)$ was Pseudomonas fluorescens. The other isolate $(4.2\%)$ was identified as Candida albicans. We conclude that the subculture of negative results is valuable in the BacT/Alert 3D system, especially in situations in which only one set of blood cultures is taken.

Instability of Anthocyanin Accumulation in Vitis vinifera L. var. Gamay Freaux Suspension Cultures

  • Qu Junge;Zhang Wei;Yu Xingju;Jin Meifang
    • Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.155-161
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    • 2005
  • The inherent instability of metabolite production in plant cell culture-based bioprocessing is a major problem hindering its commercialization. To understand the extent and causes of this instability, this study was aimed at understanding the variability of anthocyanin accumulation during long-term subcultures, as well as within subculture batches, in Vitis vinifera cell cultures. Therefore, four cell line suspensions of Vitis vinifera L. var. Gamay Freaux, A, B, C and D, originated from the same callus by cell-aggregate cloning, were established with starting anthocyanin contents of $2.73\;\pm\;0.15,\;1.45\;\pm\;0.04,\;0.7\;\pm\;0.024\;and\;0.27\;\pm\;0.04$CV (Color Value)/g-FCW (fresh cell weight), respectively. During weekly subculturing of 33 batches over 8 months, the anthocyanin biosynthetic capacity was gradually lost at various rates, for all four cell lines, regardless of the significant difference in the starting anthocyanin content. Contrary to this general trend, a significant fluctuation in the anthocyanin content was observed, but with an irregular cyclic pattern. The variabilities in the anthocyanin content between the subcultures for the 33 batches, as represented by the variation coefficient (VC), were 58, 57, 54, and $84\%$ for V. vinifera cell lines A, B, C and D, respectively. Within one subculture, the VCs from 12 replicate flasks for each of 12 independent subcultures were averaged, and found to be $9.7\%$, ranging from 4 to $17\%$. High- and low-producing cell lines, VV05 and VV06, with 1.8-fold differences in their basal anthocyanin contents, exhibited different inducibilities to L-phenylalanine feeding, methyl jasmonate and light irradiation. The low-producing cell line showed greater potential in enhanced the anthocyanin production.