• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.468-475
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• 2015

This study has examined the 20's and the 30's Korean who have a desire, 'to be getting younger' and how to relate what appearance management-behavior they follow. The methodology of this study used both theoretical and quantitative research for an empirical study. First, a theoretical study researched a big stream of the 20's and the 30's Koreans' to be getting younger' on articles based on the social and cultural background of the past 30 years that defined various concepts of age through previous research. Data was also collected via SMS for five months (August to December 2014) and 96 Korean participants in their 20's and the 30's who have lived in and around Seoul. The results of the survey analysis showed that the desire of 'to be getting younger' irrelevant to the age among Korean young people. In addition, this tendency to be the ideal age as being younger is realized by appearance management sort of skin care or clothing styling among 20's and the 30's Korean. This study suggested a phenomenon, 'to be getting younger' in Korean society would lead to an alternative sort of age that targets individual taste rather than the chronological age in the apparel market.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.65-72
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• 2000

자동차와 같이 스타일링이 전체 상품성에 미치는 영향이 큰 제품에서는 차체의 스타일과 동시에 BI의 디자인과 그 마무리가 매우 중요하다. 최근에는 상품의 다양화와 각종 매체의 발달에 의하여 소비자들의 브랜드에 대한 인식이 과거의 고정적이던 것에서, 여러 가지 요인들에 의하여 변화될 수 있는 가변적인 것으로 변화되어가고 있으므로 참신한 BI의 이미지 부각은 더욱 중요시된다. 초기의 자동차에서 장식품의 개념에서 시작되어 공업화와 함께 시작된 개별 브랜드의 개념이 독립화 되고 전문화되어 오늘의 BI의 형태에 이르렀다. 이에 따라 비교적 긴 역사를 가지고 있는 브랜드는 그것을 알려야 하는 요구가 상대적으로 적으나, 후발 메이커의 브랜드는 짧은 시간 내에 보다 많은 소비자에게 긍정적인 인식을 심어주는 것이 매우 중요한 과제로써 다루어지고 있다. 이에 따라 최근의 차량에 쓰이는 BI는 브랜드의 조형적인면 뿐 아니라, 재료와 공법 등에 따라 매우 다양한 형태와 방법이 나타나고 있으며, 이것은 후발 브랜드의 BI에서 단순하면서도 추상성이 강한 조령 방법과, 물리적 마무리에서도 화려한 경향을 가지는 것이 나타나고 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2015

This study analyzed the expressive phenomenon of a blurred boundary in fashion jewelry focused on the relationship between fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries about jewelry theories in regards to 607 cases of fashion jewelry design in fashion books, fashion magazines, fashion internet sites from 2000 to 2014. The results were: First, phenomenon of blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and costume was expressed in a see-through wear form made of luxury material (gold and diamond) or paste material, a similar form (like fashion accessories made of crystal, bids, and gold chain), an integration of fashion accessories and jewelry, and an attached jewelry on fashion accessories. It reflected a rearrangement of conventional relationships, a blurred relation of function and meaning, dissolution of jewelry form stereotypes, jewelry styling, a harmony of function and decoration, and an alteration to the central role of a fashion image. Second, the phenomenon of a blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and body was expressed in a body organ wrapping, body surface adhesion and sculptural jewelry based on body pose. It reflected a separation from conventional space of jewelry expression, a realization of mystery and fantastic, an expression of new body surface and a blurred boundaries of fashion jewelry and body art. Aesthetic characteristics were analyzed into metaphor and integration by separation from the conventional relationship of fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.793-798
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• 2009

Hair cut is one of the best useful technical tool for hair styling. In this study using the rule of the layers of hair design, balanced for visual art, perceptual ability and form created by the principles of analysis and offer hair cuts and hair design of the representation of regions and even hair design as the basis of a student of Hair Beauty and all the people working in the field can create a variety of hair design puts the purpose to establish a basis. The result of this study can be outline as follows: First, the step line and the movement of the relationship between the law of the layers above and below the length of the same layer techniques, the same consists of a vertical cross-section of the overall round shape of the cut same layer is created and the appropriate volume and movement, the movement of low-layer round a little bit more feeling and expression is used when you want. High-layer used to want to move a lot of light and could see that. Second, the layer of the Law and over direction, lifting, section, the line control. weight control and analyzed by principle and the principle of the process of forming the written form was unknown. Third, hair design, the expansion of the expressive power of the law of the layers, and the section of the over direction depends on the presence of line control to express the length of the outline I had to, lifting the weight to adjust form controls, and the expression of Hair Design will be expanding the width. A hair designer, a layer style to create a zone he thought the law of the first layer formative area To further the reach will be a lot of research, leading up formative aspects of this research thesis do not have missing parts, or as a result of the Beauty of Hair Design and the width of a hair design education in the field can perform to help feed the reference materials that will be.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.68-77
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• 2005

In contemporary advertising market, one of main trends is to speak surrealistic visual language which provides 'enjoyable spectacles'. Specially, in the beginning of 21st century, there discovered more and more exhibitions and discourses about surrealism reinterpreted from the viewpoint of postmodernism. Surrealism as a creative style of expression based upon free association, has been a great inspiration for fashion ads for commercial communication as well as fashion design since its origin. However, there has been ignored the idea of analyzing surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads in spite of their flood. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to grasp its cultural meaning through analyzing aesthetic characteristics of surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads. It will provide a better understanding of surrealistic image in fashion ads reflecting popular taste and preference directly as popular visual culture, focusing on post modern context. A case study of surrealistic fashion ads limits to TV or print commercials and digital ads as image ads stimulating visual expressions. The Results can be summarized as follows. Surrealism is an avant garde style which deconstructs the established meaning system as well as the existing formalistic order and then put them together in the frame of 'dream' and 'unconsciousness'. Defamiliarization questioning the whole edifice of representation can be adapted to. By means of paradox and metaphor, unfamiliar new visual world can be represented. The plastic characteristics of surrealistic image in fashion ads are founded as surrealistic styling of time and space, distortion of object by methods of automatism, depaysement, parody and trompe-l'oeil which bring about the deconstruction of gestalt. Aesthetic values of surrealistic fashion ads appear as dualistic representation, allegoric symbolism, fantastic romanticism. Ultimately they lead to marvelous. mysterious, humorous visual effects. Foster reinterpreted these effects of surrealism from Freud's 'Uncanny Concept'. 'Uncanny' means the phenomenon recurring to familiar being defamiliarized by repression. Surrealistic fashion ads strengthen this shocking effect more and more dramatically in company with our post modern needs for fantastic adventure and thrilling spectacle. It can be thought that surrealistic fashion ads reflects uncanny as an alternative which can relieve us of our stress and anxiety and which realize our potential desire in contemporary post industrial stage.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2009

The audience of the performing arts enacted on the stage appreciate acting of the characters in a play to understand its plot, identify with the characters, and comprehend the message and subject matters of the play. Stage make-up in particular should assist audience in comprehending the story without overpowering or distracting the script. Stage make-up is a crucial means to visualize occupation, class, personality, and age of the characters. Thus it is an essential means in producing a high quality performance. The aim of the study is to examine character-emphasis make-up for a play by reviewing theories on the concepts and methods of the stage make-up. The methodology of the study was to analyze character make-up of the adopted play The Madwoman of Chaillot (La Folle de Chaillot) translated from the original French, as a case study. The technique and features of the character make-up of the play were examined, and functions of each factor of the character make-up depending on a role were also examined. The results of the study are as follows. The stage make-up for creating and expressing a distinctive personality of the characters in a play must integrate environmental factors external to a performance such as lighting and scale of a venue. Moreover the stage make-up must adopt and reconstruct internal factors of the play such as interpretation of the original work, subject matters, interpretation of the script, character analysis based on the discussion with a director, and design setting.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify appearance management behavior related to well-being lifestyle of women. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The factors relating to a well-being lifestyle were personality and value, fashionable appearance, leisure activity, healthy food, brands, social activities, reasonable consumption, environmental protection, and individuality. The factors of appearance management behavior were weight management and skin care, apparel and accessory management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hair styling, underwear management, using hospitals, beauty salons, and identity kits. 2. Women were classified into 4 kinds of groups: well-being, reasonable value pursuit, ostensible consumption, and bad-being. 3. The members of the well-being group were generally married, highly educated, had a high income, and spent a lot of money for their appearance management. They had a high level of appearance management in terms of weight and skincare, apparel and fashion accessories management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hairstyling, underwear management, and in the use of hospitals and beauty salons. The members of the reasonable value pursuit group were generally married, less educated, with a medium income, and spent little for their appearance management. Members of the ostensible consumption group were generally unmarried, with a low income but spent lot of money for sundries and appearance management. They also had a high level of appearance management with regard to weight training and skin care, apparel and fashion accessory management, underwear management, the use of hospitals and beauty salons, and using identity kits. Members of the bad-being group were generally unmarried, had low incomes, little disposable income, spent little on appearance management, and didn't manage their appearance as a whole.