• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.132-132
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• 1999

In the cosmetics field, facial skins have been classified into four types according to self estimation as well as physiological parameters. The aim of this study is to understand skin condition in the levels and composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, and to propose new classification for skin types. We assessed the relationship between the SC lipid composition and the self-estimated skin types or physiological parameters of the skin. Sensitive skin has been of great concern over the last decades, and it should be recognized as a skin type. Therefore, we also investigated the influence of the SC lipid composition on variations of sensitivity evaluated by the Stinging Test. Fifty-five healthy Japanese women aged 22-44 participated in this study. Skin biopsies were taken from facial skin using polyethylene sheet with cyanoacrylate. SC lipids were extracted and separated into individual lipid classes. The combined ceramides and cholesterol were quantified by HPTLC. Free fatty acid was quantified according to the ACS-ACOD method. Instrumental measurements were made at the site around the biopsy. In addition, the Stinging Test and a sensory evaluation questionnaire were administered to all subjects. The generally recognized O-D skin type classification is dependent on the consumer`s subjective assessment with respect to their skin troubles. The product of hydration state and skin surface lipid level showed a significant correlation with self-estimated skin types. The oily-dry skin type classified according to physiological parameters as well as SC lipid levels should be characterized as delicate skin with its barrier function deteriorating in the winter. Two groups of sensitive skin were established. One is the barrier function of the skin is deteriorated, and another is the sebaceous gland activity is in decline.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Veterinary Clinics Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.114-114
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• 2006

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.305-308
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• 2006

Poloxamer-based hydrogel formulation for the topical delivery of ascorbic acid(AsA) was prepared and the effect of limonene on AsA skin permeation and localization was evaluated. In vitro rat skin permeation study, the AsA skin permeation of limonene-containing hydrogel was about 3 to 5 fold higher than control hydrogel. However the amount of permeated AsA was independent to the concentration of limonene. On the other hand the localized amount of AsA after 2 h increased proportion to the content of limonene. The increase in the ratio of localized AsA($Q_L$) to permeated AsA($Q_P$) was attributed to the limonene's ability of making polar pathway within stratum corneum by interacting on lipid domain of the skin and the AsA's hydration effect on the stratum corneum and effect on the protein domain of the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.341-348
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• 2023

In this study, basic skin characteristic data was measured by measuring skin hydration, skin sebum secretion rate, skin melanin index, skin redness index, skin redness image analysis, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and amount of stratum corneum before and after creating a temporary high temperature and low humidity environments targeting Korean women in their 20s to 50s. Stratum corneum by tape stripping was collected at each measurement and skin biomarkers including total protein content, carbonylated protein, neutral lipid, and lipid peroxidation were analyzed. Based on the results, the differences before and after creating a high temperature and low humidity environments were confirmed, the correlation between skin characteristics and skin biomarkers was confirmed, and a new skin index was created based on this. The new skin index can be used in product efficacy evaluation, and the possibility of constructing a new clinical study method and using skin biomarker discovery research through additional research was confirmed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.447-453
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• 2018

Acetyl hexapeptide 8 (AH8) is a synthetic peptide for anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It was developed as a mimetic of botox, patternd after N -terminal end of the protein synatosomal-associated protein 25 (SNAP25), a substrate of botulinum toxin. While AH8 has good efficacy and safety profiles, the permeation through the skin is poor. Therefore, we tried to enhance the transdermal delivery of AH8 by using of hyaluonic acid (HA), a linear polysaccharide of N-acetyl glucosamine and glucuronic acid. To investigate the effect of HA on AH8 penetration, we analyzed paraffin sections of $Micropig^{(R)}$ skin. Fluorescence labeled AH8 was applied to micropig skin with or without HA. The absorption of AH8 was limited to the stratum corneum (SC) without HA. On the other hand, AH8 penetrated to the dermis with HA. Especially, low molecular weight HA (5 kDa) was most efficient compared to 500 kDa HA and 2000 kDa HA. Experiments using fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy revealed that lower molecular weight HA had a tendency to increase the fluidity of the SC lipids more, which means enhancing the skin penetration. Therefore, HA could be expected to enhance the anti-wrinkle effect of AH8.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1996

Recently, in vitro stratum curneum model was a useful tool to evaluate the skin condition such as tranespidermal water loss, skin hydration and etc.. In this study to evaluate the alteration of SC with aging in hairless mouse, we measured TEWL using in vitro SC model, SC lipid, and outer corneocytes area. Although the total SC lipid was rich about 30% in 8 week old mouse compared with that of 82 week old mouse, the TEWL values were higher in the former than that of the latter. The outer corneocytes area was 559 $\pm$ 65 $mu extrm{m}$2 in 8 week old mouse and 755 $\pm$ 56 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$2 in 82 week old mouse. So the barrier function was reinforced with aging. This result suggested that the reinforced barrier function is one of the defense systems against the outer enviornment and the decreased skin function with aging.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.91-96
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• 2000

We investigated characters of transdermal therapeutic system(TTS) and the skin permeability of that with applying drug delivery system(DDS). Natural gums were selected as material of TTS. The permeation of natural gums ointment containing drug in rat skin using diffusion cell model. Permeation properties of materials were investigated for water soluble drug such as riboflavin in vitro. We used glycerin, PEG 600 and oleic acid as enhancers. Since dermis has more hydration than the stratum corneum, skin permeation rate at steady state was highly influenced when glycerin was used in riboflavin. The permeation rate of content enhancer and drug was found to be faster than that of content riboflavin only. These results showed that skin permeation rate of drug across the composite was mainly dependent on the property of ointment base and drug. All the gum ointment tested showed good safety. Proper selection of the materials which resemble and enhance properties of the delivering drug was found to be important in controlling the skin permeation rate.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.99-103
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• 1996

Effects of glycerin and PEG 400 in donor and receptor solutions upon skin permeation of drug were investigated. Deoxycortisone was used as a model compound. In vitro skin permeation study with freshly excised hairless mouse skin was performed and the steady-state skin permeation rates of the drug were determined in different fractions of glycerin or PEG 400 in donor and receptor solutions. Glycerin in donor solution didn't show any effect on the skin permeation rate of deoxycortisone. However glycerin in receptor solution showed significant effect on the skin permeation rate of the drug. In glycerin, there's a critical concentration for balancing hydration and dehydration of skin. At low concentration, less than 20 %, glycerin showed the enhancement of the flux due to the hydration effect of skin. At high concentration, more than 30 %, glycerin retard the permeation rate which might be due to the dehydration effect on the dermis layer. Since dermis has more water content than the stratum corneum, the steady state skin permeation rates were more influenced when glycerin was in receptor solution than that of in donor solution. PEG 400 aqueous solutions doesn't affect the steady state permeation rate of deoxycortisone significantly.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.98-141
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• 2003

Lip chapping is a serious cosmetics problem, though remedies other than moisturizing have not been proposed. We investigated changes in the surface configurations of lip corneocytes and increased CD activity and improved chapping severity. Our results suggest that lip chapping can be activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases associated with lip chapping. Using scanning electron microscopy, villus-like projections were observed on the inner surfaces of most corneocytes from normal lips, whereas those with flatter surface were predominant in chapped lips. Further, cell surface area increased with the severity of lip chapping. Cathepsin D (CD)-like and chymotrypsin-like proteinase, which are also present in skin as desquamation-regulating proteinases, were detected in lip corneocytes, though only CD activity was found to decrease in severely chapped lips. Hydration was also lower in areas of lip chapping. Sequential topical application of apricot extract essence characterized as similar to senile xerosis rather than dry skin such as winter xerosis, as it shows a delayed transition of corneocytes through the stratum corneum, and the reduced CD activity may be one of the mechanisms that is further decreased by low hydration. We propose that an enhancement of both CD activity and lip moisture may be effective to improve lip chapping.