• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.41-48
• /
• 1998

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0$^{\circ}$ 20$^{\circ}$ 30$^{\circ}$ 45$^{\circ}$ 60$^{\circ}$ 70$^{\circ}$ 90$^{\circ}$, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$ were lower than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60$^{\circ}$. 70$^{\circ}$. 90$^{\circ}$-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0$^{\circ}$. 20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45$^{\circ}$ -14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.57 no.1
• /
• pp.91-107
• /
• 2019

The use of standardized stitches in globalized apparel markets is becoming increasingly important. However, many apparel vendors still use disunified stitches, such as Japanese and English. This study analyzes the usage of clothing stitches of cut and sewn knit garment fabrication of small companies. The results of the analysis of 464 worksheets of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, of the 464 worksheets, only 4.31% are labeled as ISO 4915 No. Among the 1,399 stitches, only 3.15% were marked with the ISO 4915 No. Second, among 1,399 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401 was the most frequently used. Third, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was used the most; in addition, ISO 4915 No. 401, 301 and 304 were also frequently used. Fourth, in the case of the bottoms, the stitch with the highest frequency was ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by ISO 4915 No. 103 and 401, respectively. Fifth, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was most commonly used in hemlines and sleeve edges; in addition, in the case of the bottoms, ISO 4915 No. 406 and 103 were most commonly used as hemlines. In conclusion, it is important to use international standard stitches, especially for the most frequently used stitches. By using the standard stitches, the communication errors between production departments can be reduced and information can be accurately delivered.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.40-47
• /
• 1971

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of several methods of the patching on the strength of the seam-texture. The main findings warranted from the present study were as follows : 1. The breaking strength was increased in proportion to the number of stitches in the case of 5 stitches per cm and 7 stitches per cm, not in the case of 9 stitches per cm where the tendency to damage the texture stitches appeared because of the excessive. 2. In comparing the effects of three methods (1. attaching a single patch, 2. attaching a single patch and seaming, 3. attaching several ply patch), no significant difference was found among these three. 3. There was a significant difference between the effects of two methods (1. attaching a single patch and stitching one edge of it on one side of the seam, 2. attaching a single patch and stitching both edges of it on the both sides of seam). In other words, the latter was found to be significantly more effective than the former. 4. In the case of unbalanced texture 9for example, single to two ply, single ply to two ply, or single to three ply), attaching a single patch to single ply and stitching both edges of it, and attaching a single patch to cover the plain-seam and stitching both edges of it, were more effective than attaching a single patch without stitching. 5. In comparing the effects of stitching both edges of the patch in 4 stitches per cm by the machine and by the hand, no significant difference was found. But these were more effective than stitching its both edges in 2 stitches per cm by hand. 6. The plain-seam stitched one edge of patch in 2 stitches per cm by machine and other by hand was significantly stronger than the plain-seam without a patch or with patch not stitched.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.73-82
• /
• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.229-234
• /
• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.125-135
• /
• 2012

Since knitted textile products mostly do not require long span of time from the conception to the final products, they have lead the fashion trends during the recent decades. Developments in the textile engineering industries, and computer software and hardware industries have made the 3D virtual clothing software system easily accessible by the fashion/textile industry personnel. The simulated models of apparel products using the state-of-the-art virtual clothing systems are, however, not the replica of real-world garments. Moreover, the garments do not maintain fixed shapes during wearing. Deformations at low external stress lead to difficulties in predicting the behavior of the knitted garments. Therefore, there is a need to compare the differences in appearances, textures, or other related properties between simulated fabrics and actual fabrics. Three knit stitches including jersey, rib, and cable stitches are examined in this study. The differences between fluffy thick yarns and thin yarns are also compared using 3D scanning and surface reconstruction. Obtained three-dimensional data regarding the reconstructed knit specimens would help to build a data base for estimating the behavior of the 3D models of the knitted garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.353-360
• /
• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.58 no.3
• /
• pp.357-374
• /
• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.363-373
• /
• 1973

The Sewability was tested with the seam strength and Puckering Grade by a general sewing machine according to some properties of simulated Leather, yarn tensile strength needle and stitches. The main results tested are as follows ; 1. The thick and uncomfortable leather is unable to be sewed by a general sewing machine, but the thin and soft one is able to. 2. The interval between stitches depends on type of leather used, and the variance in accordance with type of leather varies much more in the case of narrower interval. 3. When the sewability of leather-surface is not so good, is desirable to pour oil on the surface for the purpose of better efficiency. 4. The seam strength is directly proportional to interval of stitch and tensile strength of yarn and leather used, and needle No. 14 is more effective than No.1l. 5. The more the soft and thin leather is, the lower the Puckering Grade becomes. Type of yarn and interval of stitches do not seem to effect the Puckering Grade.