초록
An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0$^{\circ}$ 20$^{\circ}$ 30$^{\circ}$ 45$^{\circ}$ 60$^{\circ}$ 70$^{\circ}$ 90$^{\circ}$, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$ were lower than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60$^{\circ}$. 70$^{\circ}$. 90$^{\circ}$-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0$^{\circ}$. 20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45$^{\circ}$ -14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.