• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.330-343
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• 2020

This study defines the concept of the fashion meme, which has recently emerged as a fashion trend, influential fashion keyword. After analyzing the concepts and characteristics of traditional memes from prior studies, examples of fashion memes were collected from online community and social network services, while a literature study and case study analysis were conducted in parallel drawing on related articles and journals. Modern fashion memes refer to fashion-related symbols and fashion images that are spread online by word-of-mouth, together with fashion styles and items that spread as a result of being worn. Fashion memes in cyberspace are mainly spread through social network or message services, and sometimes combine text, images, videos, hashtags, and emoticons. Fashion memes are a type of collective action of the people in response to social problems in the world, and often involve humorous antics, satire, shock, and eccentricity. Shared fashion memes reflect the expression of personality expression and fun, and at the same time are used as an expression of designer and brand creativity and are integral to marketing. Fashion memes are classified into four types, based on two central axes as follows: non-commercial/commercial and anti-fashion/fashion-friendly. Unlike traditional memes, Internet-based fashion memes emphasize elements of transformation through creativity as well as imitation, which has become a persisting contemporary trend beyond temporary phenomena.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2009

This research covers the ways in which typography, which has been expressed in a diverse range of fields and changed communication functions from the era of reading to the era of feeling according to the change in the times and social demands, has been represented in modem fashion, along with examining its inherent aesthetic characteristics. I reviewed the general information of typography's fundamental notions and functions through documented records, and analyzed the inherent aesthetic characteristics by examining the typographical patterns shown in modem fashion based on art works in domestic and international collections after 2000. The result of this research is that typography in modem fashion has been used for improving brand image, expressing social slogans, expressing images, linguistic function for playful expression and the interdependent relationships of modeling functions. Typography in modem fashion has always been diversely expressed harmoniously with linguistic and modeling functions. Through this, the aesthetic characteristics were firstly parodies through direct sentences addressing political and social ideologies, economic gaps, environmental issues and anti-war protests. Secondly, by using brand logos, typography was used as a commercial means like brand-image transfer and separation through customization of other brands. Thirdly, the aesthetic and artistic value of fashion were expressed after being used as experimental visual components like image, motive and patterns which are all elements of fashion design. Fourthly, by distortion and transformation of characters or childish decorations, along with the harmonization of words, cathartic humor was provided for the calloused senses of modern people.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권44호
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• pp.143-161
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• 2016

이번연구에서는 작가주의 애니메이션의 역할을 중심으로 연구하였다. 작가주의 애니메이션은 대중적 기호나 특정한 집단의 이익과 입장에 구애받지 않고 작가의 예리한 시선으로 그 사회의 부조리를 재치 있고 통렬하게 풍자하여 사회의 긍정적인 변화를 유도하는 정화제 역할을 한다. 이러한 관점에서 애니메이션을 사회적 의미생산 도구로서 활용한 작가들 중 얀슈반크마이에르(Jan Svankmajer)의 <대화의 차원>(Dimensions of Dialogue, 1982)과 노만 맥라렌(Norman Mclaren)의 <이웃>(Neighbours, 1952)에 나타난 풍자성을 연구해 본 결과 다음과 같은 특징과 의미를 알 수 있었다. 첫째, <대화의 차원>은 이미지의 분절에 의한 연출과 옴니버스구성을 통해 인간사회의 부조리한 모순을 상징적이면서도 파격적으로 풍자 한 애니메이션이다. 풍자에 있어서도 역사, 사회, 인간에 대한 냉소적인 공격성이면에는 개량적 교훈의 메시지를 담고 있었다. 또한 소외된 세계, 혼돈스러운 형상, 부조리한 것의 유희 등 얀 슈반크마이에르만의 그로테스크한 이미지를 통해 작가의 초현실적인 절대적 현실성과 영상의 몰입도를 극대화하였다. 둘째, <이웃>은 인과관계에 의한 사건적 스토리구조로 실사촬영에 의한 픽실레이션기법을 통해 실사영화와는 차별화되는 비실사동영상의 핵심개념을 적용한 텍스트적인 애니메이션이라고 할 수 있다. 선한 인간이 물질의 욕망 앞에서 대립과 갈등을 넘어 극한의 폭력적 광기로 변질되는 과정을 슬랩스틱 한 과장된 동작과 유머로 블랙코미디 적으로 풍자하였다. 두 애니메이션에서 나타난 풍자방식은 휴머니즘과 도덕적 불감증에 대한 공격성에 있어, 무겁게 느낄 수 있는 내용을 반어적 웃음을 유발하는 작가의 독특한 이미지스타일과 상징어법을 통해 전달하고 있었다. 즉 작가는 애니메이션을 통해 공격대상 대한 파괴보다는 도덕적 관점에서 부정의 형식을 통해 건강한 사회변화를 위한 긍정의 의지를 담고 있는 것이다. 이렇듯 두 작품에서 나타난 풍자성은 애니메이션의 사회적 기능과 예술적 영향력을 극대화시키는 작가적 알레고리임을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.323-331
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• 2024

'한(Han)'은 한국인들이 오랜 민족적 고난을 경험하면서 형성한 심리적 특성이다. 이는 집단적 무의식의 형태로, 모든 한국인에게 깊은 영향을 끼쳤으며, 시대의 변화에 따라 다양한 예술 형식과 융합되었다. 봉준호 감독의 작품들은 사회적 문제의식을 담은 영화로, 계급 간의 '한'을 서사화하여 한국 역사와 현실의 문제를 재조명한다. 이 연구는 봉준호 감독의 여섯 편의 영화를 통해 '계급의 한'이라는 주제로 한국의 '한 문화'를 고찰한다. 영화 분석에는 인물기호와 비인물 기호를 구분하여 기호학적 접근을 적용한다. 1990년대 후반부터 2010년대 후반까지의 대표작들은 사실주의와 초현실주의 기법을 활용하여 계급적 계층의 '보이는 것'과 '보이지 않는 것'을 명확히 표현한다. 이 연구는 봉준호 감독의 영화를 '풍자-폭로-희망'의 순서로 분석하여, 그의 작품이 계급에 미치는 문화적 비판적 성격과 대중의 정신 문화적 측면에 미치는 영향을 탐구한다.

• Journal of Information Science Theory and Practice
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.40-53
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• 2019

Although fake news has been present in human history at any time, nowadays, with social media, deceptive information has a stronger effect on society than before. This article answers two research questions, namely (1) Is the dissemination of fake news supported by machines through the automatic construction of filter bubbles, and (2) Are echo chambers of fake news manmade, and if yes, what are the information behavior patterns of those individuals reacting to fake news? We discuss the role of filter bubbles by analyzing social media's ranking and results' presentation algorithms. To understand the roles of individuals in the process of making and cultivating echo chambers, we empirically study the effects of fake news on the information behavior of the audience, while working with a case study, applying quantitative and qualitative content analysis of online comments and replies (on a blog and on Reddit). Indeed, we found hints on filter bubbles; however, they are fed by the users' information behavior and only amplify users' behavioral patterns. Reading fake news and eventually drafting a comment or a reply may be the result of users' selective exposure to information leading to a confirmation bias; i.e. users prefer news (including fake news) fitting their pre-existing opinions. However, it is not possible to explain all information behavior patterns following fake news with the theory of selective exposure, but with a variety of further individual cognitive structures, such as non-argumentative or off-topic behavior, denial, moral outrage, meta-comments, insults, satire, and creation of a new rumor.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2011

Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.