Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.
The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.
The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.
This study aims to determine the characteristics of new senior women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which analyzed 412 women between the ages of 55-69. A factor analysis was performed based on 20 indices, including eight based on circumference, eight based on height and length measurements, and four based on torso flattening. The results of the factor analysis suggest five main factors: torso silhouette, longitudinal size of the body, torso flattening rate, abdominal shape, and posterior longitudinal size. The results of the cluster analysis suggest three overall types: Type 1 is the inverted triangular obese shape which is characterized by large breasts, small buttocks, a short height, and a forward-bending posture; Type 2 is the rectangular, slim shape which is characterized by a forward neck and a flat front and back of the torso, and is the most slender among the three types; Type 3 is the large rectangular, overall obese shape, which is characterized by a round shape with large breasts, waist, and buttocks, and a forward-bending posture with a protruding back, and this is the most obese type. According to the results of the cross-tabulation, women aged 55-59 showed no trend in body shape; women aged 60-64 showed an increases in the inverted triangular obese shape and the large rectangular, overall obese shape; women aged 65-69 showed an increase in the large rectangular, overall obese shape and a decrease in the rectangular slim shape. In summary, new senior women showed body shape characteristics of being short, more obese having, a bent over posture. As they grew older, the curves disappeared, and the body becomes rounder. The study found that variation in body shape exists among new senior women in the aged society.
This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.
The purpose of this study is to provide guidance to plan clothing design with an analysis of design property of famous overseas brands. For this purpose, the prt-a-porter fashion collection from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements, with regards to the design property of clothing. The reference for the actual study was 1055 pictures of clothing that were collected of collections of famous overseas brand. The results of this study are as follows. With regard to the character of the clothing design classified by brand, the design property was embossed with all design elements. Therefore, we can use design elements to express design property, like clothing design of famous overseas brands. With regard to the changes of clothing design year by year, it was changed with almost all of the design elements. Therefore, it is noted that clothing design do well to reflect the fashion trends of the year with almost all design elements. With regard to design properties of seasonal clothing, clothing design properties which are popular in the S/S season are slim silhouette, see-thru material, brilliant material, abstraction pattern, and so on. On the other hand, clothing design properties which are popular in the F/W season are wide silhouette, hard material, complex material, complex pattern, inorganic decoration and so on. Therefore, it is noted that clothing design do well to reflect the seasonal trends.
This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.
This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.
The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.
This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.
본 웹사이트에 게시된 이메일 주소가 전자우편 수집 프로그램이나
그 밖의 기술적 장치를 이용하여 무단으로 수집되는 것을 거부하며,
이를 위반시 정보통신망법에 의해 형사 처벌됨을 유념하시기 바랍니다.
[게시일 2004년 10월 1일]
이용약관
제 1 장 총칙
제 1 조 (목적)
이 이용약관은 KoreaScience 홈페이지(이하 “당 사이트”)에서 제공하는 인터넷 서비스(이하 '서비스')의 가입조건 및 이용에 관한 제반 사항과 기타 필요한 사항을 구체적으로 규정함을 목적으로 합니다.
제 2 조 (용어의 정의)
① "이용자"라 함은 당 사이트에 접속하여 이 약관에 따라 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스를 받는 회원 및 비회원을
말합니다.
② "회원"이라 함은 서비스를 이용하기 위하여 당 사이트에 개인정보를 제공하여 아이디(ID)와 비밀번호를 부여
받은 자를 말합니다.
③ "회원 아이디(ID)"라 함은 회원의 식별 및 서비스 이용을 위하여 자신이 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을
말합니다.
④ "비밀번호(패스워드)"라 함은 회원이 자신의 비밀보호를 위하여 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을 말합니다.
제 3 조 (이용약관의 효력 및 변경)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트에 게시하거나 기타의 방법으로 회원에게 공지함으로써 효력이 발생합니다.
② 당 사이트는 이 약관을 개정할 경우에 적용일자 및 개정사유를 명시하여 현행 약관과 함께 당 사이트의
초기화면에 그 적용일자 7일 이전부터 적용일자 전일까지 공지합니다. 다만, 회원에게 불리하게 약관내용을
변경하는 경우에는 최소한 30일 이상의 사전 유예기간을 두고 공지합니다. 이 경우 당 사이트는 개정 전
내용과 개정 후 내용을 명확하게 비교하여 이용자가 알기 쉽도록 표시합니다.
제 4 조(약관 외 준칙)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스에 관한 이용안내와 함께 적용됩니다.
② 이 약관에 명시되지 아니한 사항은 관계법령의 규정이 적용됩니다.
제 2 장 이용계약의 체결
제 5 조 (이용계약의 성립 등)
① 이용계약은 이용고객이 당 사이트가 정한 약관에 「동의합니다」를 선택하고, 당 사이트가 정한
온라인신청양식을 작성하여 서비스 이용을 신청한 후, 당 사이트가 이를 승낙함으로써 성립합니다.
② 제1항의 승낙은 당 사이트가 제공하는 과학기술정보검색, 맞춤정보, 서지정보 등 다른 서비스의 이용승낙을
포함합니다.
제 6 조 (회원가입)
서비스를 이용하고자 하는 고객은 당 사이트에서 정한 회원가입양식에 개인정보를 기재하여 가입을 하여야 합니다.
제 7 조 (개인정보의 보호 및 사용)
당 사이트는 관계법령이 정하는 바에 따라 회원 등록정보를 포함한 회원의 개인정보를 보호하기 위해 노력합니다. 회원 개인정보의 보호 및 사용에 대해서는 관련법령 및 당 사이트의 개인정보 보호정책이 적용됩니다.
제 8 조 (이용 신청의 승낙과 제한)
① 당 사이트는 제6조의 규정에 의한 이용신청고객에 대하여 서비스 이용을 승낙합니다.
② 당 사이트는 아래사항에 해당하는 경우에 대해서 승낙하지 아니 합니다.
- 이용계약 신청서의 내용을 허위로 기재한 경우
- 기타 규정한 제반사항을 위반하며 신청하는 경우
제 9 조 (회원 ID 부여 및 변경 등)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객에 대하여 약관에 정하는 바에 따라 자신이 선정한 회원 ID를 부여합니다.
② 회원 ID는 원칙적으로 변경이 불가하며 부득이한 사유로 인하여 변경 하고자 하는 경우에는 해당 ID를
해지하고 재가입해야 합니다.
③ 기타 회원 개인정보 관리 및 변경 등에 관한 사항은 서비스별 안내에 정하는 바에 의합니다.
제 3 장 계약 당사자의 의무
제 10 조 (KISTI의 의무)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객이 희망한 서비스 제공 개시일에 특별한 사정이 없는 한 서비스를 이용할 수 있도록
하여야 합니다.
② 당 사이트는 개인정보 보호를 위해 보안시스템을 구축하며 개인정보 보호정책을 공시하고 준수합니다.
③ 당 사이트는 회원으로부터 제기되는 의견이나 불만이 정당하다고 객관적으로 인정될 경우에는 적절한 절차를
거쳐 즉시 처리하여야 합니다. 다만, 즉시 처리가 곤란한 경우는 회원에게 그 사유와 처리일정을 통보하여야
합니다.
제 11 조 (회원의 의무)
① 이용자는 회원가입 신청 또는 회원정보 변경 시 실명으로 모든 사항을 사실에 근거하여 작성하여야 하며,
허위 또는 타인의 정보를 등록할 경우 일체의 권리를 주장할 수 없습니다.
② 당 사이트가 관계법령 및 개인정보 보호정책에 의거하여 그 책임을 지는 경우를 제외하고 회원에게 부여된
ID의 비밀번호 관리소홀, 부정사용에 의하여 발생하는 모든 결과에 대한 책임은 회원에게 있습니다.
③ 회원은 당 사이트 및 제 3자의 지적 재산권을 침해해서는 안 됩니다.
제 4 장 서비스의 이용
제 12 조 (서비스 이용 시간)
① 서비스 이용은 당 사이트의 업무상 또는 기술상 특별한 지장이 없는 한 연중무휴, 1일 24시간 운영을
원칙으로 합니다. 단, 당 사이트는 시스템 정기점검, 증설 및 교체를 위해 당 사이트가 정한 날이나 시간에
서비스를 일시 중단할 수 있으며, 예정되어 있는 작업으로 인한 서비스 일시중단은 당 사이트 홈페이지를
통해 사전에 공지합니다.
② 당 사이트는 서비스를 특정범위로 분할하여 각 범위별로 이용가능시간을 별도로 지정할 수 있습니다. 다만
이 경우 그 내용을 공지합니다.
제 13 조 (홈페이지 저작권)
① NDSL에서 제공하는 모든 저작물의 저작권은 원저작자에게 있으며, KISTI는 복제/배포/전송권을 확보하고
있습니다.
② NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 상업적 및 기타 영리목적으로 복제/배포/전송할 경우 사전에 KISTI의 허락을
받아야 합니다.
③ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 보도, 비평, 교육, 연구 등을 위하여 정당한 범위 안에서 공정한 관행에
합치되게 인용할 수 있습니다.
④ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 무단 복제, 전송, 배포 기타 저작권법에 위반되는 방법으로 이용할 경우
저작권법 제136조에 따라 5년 이하의 징역 또는 5천만 원 이하의 벌금에 처해질 수 있습니다.
제 14 조 (유료서비스)
① 당 사이트 및 협력기관이 정한 유료서비스(원문복사 등)는 별도로 정해진 바에 따르며, 변경사항은 시행 전에
당 사이트 홈페이지를 통하여 회원에게 공지합니다.
② 유료서비스를 이용하려는 회원은 정해진 요금체계에 따라 요금을 납부해야 합니다.
제 5 장 계약 해지 및 이용 제한
제 15 조 (계약 해지)
회원이 이용계약을 해지하고자 하는 때에는 [가입해지] 메뉴를 이용해 직접 해지해야 합니다.
제 16 조 (서비스 이용제한)
① 당 사이트는 회원이 서비스 이용내용에 있어서 본 약관 제 11조 내용을 위반하거나, 다음 각 호에 해당하는
경우 서비스 이용을 제한할 수 있습니다.
- 2년 이상 서비스를 이용한 적이 없는 경우
- 기타 정상적인 서비스 운영에 방해가 될 경우
② 상기 이용제한 규정에 따라 서비스를 이용하는 회원에게 서비스 이용에 대하여 별도 공지 없이 서비스 이용의
일시정지, 이용계약 해지 할 수 있습니다.
제 17 조 (전자우편주소 수집 금지)
회원은 전자우편주소 추출기 등을 이용하여 전자우편주소를 수집 또는 제3자에게 제공할 수 없습니다.
제 6 장 손해배상 및 기타사항
제 18 조 (손해배상)
당 사이트는 무료로 제공되는 서비스와 관련하여 회원에게 어떠한 손해가 발생하더라도 당 사이트가 고의 또는 과실로 인한 손해발생을 제외하고는 이에 대하여 책임을 부담하지 아니합니다.
제 19 조 (관할 법원)
서비스 이용으로 발생한 분쟁에 대해 소송이 제기되는 경우 민사 소송법상의 관할 법원에 제기합니다.
[부 칙]
1. (시행일) 이 약관은 2016년 9월 5일부터 적용되며, 종전 약관은 본 약관으로 대체되며, 개정된 약관의 적용일 이전 가입자도 개정된 약관의 적용을 받습니다.