Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
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A Study on Structural Characteristics and Objective Hand of Knit Fabrics -A Focus on Intarsia and Color Jacquard-

니트 소재의 조직특성과 객관적 태에 관한 연구 -인타샤와 칼라자카드를 중심으로-

  • Lim, Gee-Jung (Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Lee, Mee-Sik (Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University)
  • 임기정 (서울여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이미식 (서울여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2011.04.15
  • Accepted : 2011.05.09
  • Published : 2011.08.31
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Abstract

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

Keywords

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Cited by

  1. Development of a High Value Added Knit Structure for Middle-aged Women vol.18, pp.2, 2014, https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.2.148
  2. Hand Evaluation and Favorable Image of Knit Fabrics -A Focus on Intarsia and Color Jacquard- vol.36, pp.8, 2012, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2012.36.8.828