• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.293-319
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• 2003

Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.189-199
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• 1997

The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.393-403
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• 1991

The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.95-108
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• 2019

This study aims to determine the characteristics of new senior women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which analyzed 412 women between the ages of 55-69. A factor analysis was performed based on 20 indices, including eight based on circumference, eight based on height and length measurements, and four based on torso flattening. The results of the factor analysis suggest five main factors: torso silhouette, longitudinal size of the body, torso flattening rate, abdominal shape, and posterior longitudinal size. The results of the cluster analysis suggest three overall types: Type 1 is the inverted triangular obese shape which is characterized by large breasts, small buttocks, a short height, and a forward-bending posture; Type 2 is the rectangular, slim shape which is characterized by a forward neck and a flat front and back of the torso, and is the most slender among the three types; Type 3 is the large rectangular, overall obese shape, which is characterized by a round shape with large breasts, waist, and buttocks, and a forward-bending posture with a protruding back, and this is the most obese type. According to the results of the cross-tabulation, women aged 55-59 showed no trend in body shape; women aged 60-64 showed an increases in the inverted triangular obese shape and the large rectangular, overall obese shape; women aged 65-69 showed an increase in the large rectangular, overall obese shape and a decrease in the rectangular slim shape. In summary, new senior women showed body shape characteristics of being short, more obese having, a bent over posture. As they grew older, the curves disappeared, and the body becomes rounder. The study found that variation in body shape exists among new senior women in the aged society.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.157-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to provide guidance to plan clothing design with an analysis of design property of famous overseas brands. For this purpose, the prt-a-porter fashion collection from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements, with regards to the design property of clothing. The reference for the actual study was 1055 pictures of clothing that were collected of collections of famous overseas brand. The results of this study are as follows. With regard to the character of the clothing design classified by brand, the design property was embossed with all design elements. Therefore, we can use design elements to express design property, like clothing design of famous overseas brands. With regard to the changes of clothing design year by year, it was changed with almost all of the design elements. Therefore, it is noted that clothing design do well to reflect the fashion trends of the year with almost all design elements. With regard to design properties of seasonal clothing, clothing design properties which are popular in the S/S season are slim silhouette, see-thru material, brilliant material, abstraction pattern, and so on. On the other hand, clothing design properties which are popular in the F/W season are wide silhouette, hard material, complex material, complex pattern, inorganic decoration and so on. Therefore, it is noted that clothing design do well to reflect the seasonal trends.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.