• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.41-48
• /
• 1998

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0$^{\circ}$ 20$^{\circ}$ 30$^{\circ}$ 45$^{\circ}$ 60$^{\circ}$ 70$^{\circ}$ 90$^{\circ}$, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$ were lower than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60$^{\circ}$. 70$^{\circ}$. 90$^{\circ}$-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0$^{\circ}$. 20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45$^{\circ}$ -14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.460-472
• /
• 2011

This paper developed motifs through the use of images of masks with which the Korean innate consciousness of aesthetics is expressed. The motifs were applied to fashion items. This paper investigated the concept, origin and types of traditional masks through the existing literature. Using the computer graphic programs of Illustrator and Photoshop CS2, three basic motifs were set from the images of the nobleman, Bune of Hahoi Tal and Byeongsan Tal. Each motif was extended into two motifs by changing shape and color. For the basic motif design, this study sought to express contemporary images, suitably for each fashion item, while maintaining the basic shape of the masks and their traditional images. In addition, this study set the concept of the design so that could be accepted by various age groups. For the design of handkerchiefs, a rotating array, involving enlargement, reduction, repetition, and the gradation of motifs, as well as a diagonal symmetric array, and all-over patterns were developed. The T-shirt design created here was divided into a half-sleeve box type, a round neckline sleeveless type, a V-neckline close-fitting sleeveless type, and a V-neckline close-fitting cap sleeve type. For the design of necklaces, OLED or LED, which are considered as a future display type, was used. Additionally, the production of an entertainment styled new atmosphere is proposed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.930-942
• /
• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.73-89
• /
• 2017

This research aimed to identify the characteristics of outdoor apparel market for new seniors. To achieve this goal, influence of new seniors' lifestyle and apparel purchase criteria of design preferences of outdoor apparel products were investigated. An online-survey was conducted targeting fifties who have bought outdoor apparel within one year. The collected data were carried out for factor analysis, independent sample T-test, and regression analysis by using SPSS 22.0. Results showed that new seniors' lifestyles were composed of appearance-orientation, well-being diet, well-being exercise, self-development, and challenge-orientation. Purchase criteria of outdoor apparels were factored out as practical, aesthetic, and social. Appearance -orientation and self-development affect aesthetic and social factors. Well-being diet influences all factors of purchase criteria. Challenge -orientation has effect only on social factor. Women favored round-and V-neckline more than men did as well as preferred half and 3/4 long for sleeve. Customers who value practical purchase criteria preferred half-sleeve, zipper, and button-closure designs. In contrast, customers who have aesthetic purchase criteria like round/V-neckline and cap sleeve. Social factor affected high neckline and vivid-tone color preference significantly. As outdoor design for new senior it is critical to introduce differentiation of outdoor brand with various designs combining functionalities of outdoor activities and style looking young and dandy, which is highlighted as trendy and casual, over current outdoor apparels' unified design.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.379-390
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.47
• /
• pp.19-32
• /
• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Dan dynasty has been 10-parts dancer and musician group for courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 2. Except ceremonial dance and music common dance and musics performed it in front of common peaples meetings. 3. After unification of Dang dynasty many commercial men and artist come frome western of China threfore influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume without concern of that one's social position. 4. As the people who lived in thewest areas of old china there characterestics of the costumes are open breast jacked breast laped long skirt long scarf long boots narrow sleeve jackets patterend textilles(for womens) round neck narrow sleeved one-pies dress belt, long boots. patterend textiles(for mens). 5. Dancer's Costumes mode are as follows: 1) For females : high hair style, Twin 'high hair style. jewrery decorated hat bird's hair decorated cap. ribons. 2) For mens: Bok-doo. Hokongdu 6. Except traditional old china dancer dress they have many interested dancer dress for instance dang dynasty's 'Ye-sang woo yui dnace' dancer dress is very elegant and interested hip level jacket has peacoak wing shaped sleeves and long skirt has try angles shape attached apron this dancer dress begins wi-jin nam·book-dynasty. 7. Men dancer dress is just head cap bok doo long narrow sleeved one-pies dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.249-261
• /
• 2004

This research proves the ROM method (Range Of Motion), which has already been used in other countries, that measures the capacity of exercise and the adaptation of movement of functional garments for special purpose due to change of the height of basic sleeve sloper. Basically, the ultimate goal of the research is to improve the functional pattern design. Firstly, this research proves the proper application of ROM that is used for the evaluation of fitting test. Therefore, according to this research, the company is able to produce the sample that is appropriate to the various purpose for women garments and betters the evaluation of function of garments. Moreover, it suggests that the evaluation of fitting test satisfies the consumers who desire to try better garments and contributes to the competitions among the companies that bring more improvements to the fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.205-219
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to develop comfortable patient gown for spinal surgery patients. The results of the survey confirmed inconveniences and problems with the current gown, and a new gown style was recommended. The recommended changes addressed design, pattern, and materials. The final experimental design for the top of the new patient gown is a wrap style that moves the center opening of the gown to the side and enables patients to control the length of the sleeves by attaching two snaps. The cutting line is aligned with the back brace location, and the issue of repeated bunching of the gown material by the brace was solved by substituting 100% knitted structure fiber. The sleeve length can be adjusted with snaps on the sleeve cap and hem. When lifting up the gown for treatment on specific areas of the body, doctors open the edge of the right side of the gown in order to lift up the top. The bottom of the new patient gown was made from 100% cotton knitted structure fiber, and it enables patients to control the length of pants by attaching two snaps on the side. The results of an on-site dressing suitability evaluation and a flexibility evaluation with respect to dressing/undressing indicated that the new patient gown was much better received than the existing gowns (A and B). Our hypothesis regarding new patient gowns was supported in both the fit and design categories.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.661-680
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.