• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.742-754
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• 2013

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately $50^{\circ}$, $70^{\circ}$ and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of $55^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of $68^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of $68^{\circ}$. Also, in the results of experiment on $55^{\circ}$ angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over $70^{\circ}$ in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.223-230
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• 1999

Dressmaking which is defined as the process of changing two-dimensional cloth into three-dime-nsional clothes needs a lot of joining parts. Particularly sleeve needs a more curved surface than other joining parts owing to shape of the top of arms. Easing is used to control the fullness along the seam-line to create the fullness curved shape of the sleeves and it plays an important role in increasing three-dimensional constru-ction power. unfortunately sufficient data regarding effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve are not available. Therefore the author tried to investigate the effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing contraction made by different angles on the sleeve cap curve line previous work were examined and the effective easing conditions according to the variation of angles were determined. This study contains the following objectives. Firstly to obtain the easing contraction ratio in sleeve according to the above easing conditions. Secondly to investigate the three-dimensional construction power or sleeve by the factors of easing contraction. Thirdly to determine for each sleeve the effective easing conditions on the basis of the calcuative easing contraction ratio in the sleeve patterns by cap heights.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2015

This study analyzes the form of sleeve heads, which is an important internal element that affects the appearance of jacket sleeves. It characterized sleeve head forms by investigating angles, materials, and a combination of formations for 50 sleeve heads. It conducted an appearance evaluation by comparing and analyzing the results. This paper develops a sleeve head appropriately for sleeve construction. The study results are as follows. First, the product was divided into three parts: based on, force receiving, and sleeve cap parts. There were four types of man's sleeve head: straight, arc, and curve A and B types. The woman's sleeve head had two types: straight and curve B type. Second, the feature of each type of sleeve head was analyzed. A straight type emphasized the based on part. An arc type highlighted the force receiving part while the based on part decreased. The sleeve cap part, force receiving part, and based on part were emphasized in the arc type sleeve head. Third, as a result of the appearance evaluation, each type was rank as straight type < arc type ${\leq}$ curve A < curve B. The straight type did not get positive results as it had extra ease when the sleeve head was attached to a Jacket Sleeve. The arc type was evaluated poorly due to an inappropriate sleeve cap composition. The curve type received an excellent overall outcome as it fit into the sleeve cap part well and highlighted the force receiving part in order to minimize front and back wrinkles. Therefore, the curve type made the resemblance of the jacket appearance perfect and closest to the sleeve pattern.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.55-62
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.619-625
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to analyze the shapes of blouse with above-elbow sleeves according to arm movements. The shapes include five types of the arm movement(basic posture, reach forward 45, 90, and reach lateral 45, 90) in the stand-posture, which were made by different adaptability of clothes. Experiments were conducted to figure out the dressed shape through 3-D measurement Vivid 910, and also to investigate the area of the shape of sleeves on the section map and the diagonal length of the block made by the basic section line in lateral part of sleeve with Rapid Form 2004, a software for 3-D shape analysis. The Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Anova, Duncan test, t-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, the area of sleeve was briefed 3 factor; front, center, back in sleeve. Second, there were different effect of arm movement, section level and part of shapes in the area of sleeve. Third, the diagonal length was briefed 4 factor; back, back-center, front-center, front. Forth, after t-test, there were statistically significant between the reach forward and lateral and between the angles of arm reach.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.41-48
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• 1998

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0$^{\circ}$ 20$^{\circ}$ 30$^{\circ}$ 45$^{\circ}$ 60$^{\circ}$ 70$^{\circ}$ 90$^{\circ}$, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$ were lower than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60$^{\circ}$. 70$^{\circ}$. 90$^{\circ}$-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0$^{\circ}$. 20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45$^{\circ}$ -14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Aviation and Aeronautics
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.43-48
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• 2006

The present study was carried out in order to develope a seven-hole pressure probe which is able to measure high flow angles. The seven-hole pressure probe is a non-nulling, directional velocity probe used for measuring three dimensional flow that having high flow angles. A 4 mm diameter seven-hole conical pressure probe was manufactured with a cone angle of 70$^{\circ}$. The probe was comprised of seven 1 mm diameter stainless steel tubes packed close together and fitted into an outer stainless steel sleeve. The calibration procedure is based on the use of the Callington's polynomial curve-fit method. The validity of the seven-hole conical pressure probe is demonstrated by comparisons with hot-wire data.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.163-170
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• 2019

This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.