Human Ecology Research

The Korean Home Economics Association (대한가정학회)
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A Study on Women's Jacket Sleeve Patterns of the 1890s and 1900s

1890년대와 1900년대 여성복 재킷 소매 패턴형태연구

  • Park, So Jin (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Yonsei University) ;
  • Chun, Jongsuk (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Yonsei University)
  • 박소진 (연세대학교 의류환경학과) ;
  • 천종숙 (연세대학교 의류환경학과)
  • Received : 2012.09.19
  • Accepted : 2013.08.12
  • Published : 2014.02.28
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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

Keywords

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