• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.307-313
• /
• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to investigated characteristics of many pleated skirt of Miao women's Guizhou province in China. The method of this study is referd to sundry recordes and demonstrated traditional clothing of several region in Guizhou province. The most important characteristic of the costume of the Miao is the many pleated skirt, worn by most but not all groups. Pleats are pulled into place with a sharp pointed instrument and sprinkled constantly with starch. The length of the pleated skirt depends on the group. The long skirts reach to the ankle, the medium-sized to the shank and the short ones not below the knee. The design of the pleated skirt is simple but most pleated skirt ornamented with fine, cross-stiched or batic designs of geometrical figures. The figures decorated on the pleated skirt has been handed down with little change from generation to generation and has become an important mark of Miao women's each area. Seeing the many pleated skirt of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty, it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristics of almost perfect costume.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권8호
• /
• pp.1132-1141
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this research was to ascertain the optimum rear slit length of tight skirts in terms of comfort and appearance. The typical measurements of tight skirts on current market were recorded and a questionnaire survey of women in their twenties was conducted in order to find out the current conditions of the skirts and specific complaints about motion restrictions. Just over half the respondents (50.4%) reported that they had experienced damage to the slit usually when they were stepping on a bus and also walking and running. The clothing test showed that the slit length increased as the motion went from "walking" to "going up stairs", and to "stepping on a bus" In addition the slit length significantly decreased as the hem circumference of skirt became wider. On the basis of those results, a wearing test, evaluating sensual comfort and appearance, was also conducted and the results showed that the slit length of 385mm was most prefered.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제35권1호
• /
• pp.401-414
• /
• 1997

This study examined the transition of costume in middle and high school girls after the abolition of school-uniform. Fashion photographs of $\ulcorner$Junior$\lrcorner$a Korean magazine for girls were used for the investigation. Skirts used mainly were changed in order of pleat tight flare and tight skirt And skirt length was changed in order of knee midi knee and mini. Slim baggy and straight pants together showed high frequency but after 1992 straight pants were used mainly. And pants of ankle length was prevalent. In jacket Hip line natural waist and H-line silhouette dominated. Silhouette of one-piece dress was changed in order or X line H line and A line. Semi fit and natural waist were prevalent. And length was changed in order of midi knee and mini. The coat of H line Loose semi fit and Knee length was the most frequently appeared style. Waist line of coat was changed in order of natural low no natural waist. In skirt blue white black and black were mainly in spring summer fall and winter respectively. In pants blue was used mainly regardless of the season, In jacket blue in spring and black in other seasons were used. In one-piece derss blue in spring red in summer black in fall and winter were used mainly. Black coat was used mainly. Therefore blue was the most frequently used color by middle and high school girls.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.21-33
• /
• 1981

The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

• 한국항공우주학회지
• /
• 제32권9호
• /
• pp.35-40
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 최적화된 스커트 형상을 설계하기 위한 기초 자료를 얻기 위하여 스커트 의 확산각 및 길이 변화에 따른 노즐의 공력하중 특성을 고속 풍동시험을 통하여 조사하였다. 적절한 스커트를 사용하면 없을 때에 비해 김발의 구동력을 1/10 수준까지도 줄일 수 있었으며 시험 결과는 추후 스커트 형상 설계 데이터베이스로 활용하기 위해 정규화 하였다.

• 복식
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• 한국추진공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국추진공학회 2012년도 제38회 춘계학술대회논문집
• /
• pp.403-407
• /
• 2012

본 연구의 목적은 최적화 해석 기법을 이용하여 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 치수를 도출하는 것이다. 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 최적화 해석은 부분문제 근사법(sub-problem approximation method) 알고리즘을 사용하였으며, APDL(ANSYS Parametric Design Language)을 이용하여 해석의 모든 과정을 일괄처리(batch processing)하였다. 설계변수로는 압력용기 스커트 부위의 두께와 길이를 선정하였으며, 내압에 의해 발생하는 변위와 무게를 각각 목적함수로 하여 최적화 해석을 통해 최적의 스커트 치수를 도출하였다. 그 결과 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 무게를 최대 4.38% 절감할 수 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제26권6호
• /
• pp.32-46
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to explore a three-dimensional (3D) simulation of skirt shape concepts by manipulating circumferences and lengths via parametric design in the fashion design concept stage. This study also intends to propose a modeling method that can judge and transform the shape through immediate parameter adjustment. We looked at cases that utilized parametric design in other fields of fashion design, reviewed and analyzed the variables used in each study, and constructed parameters suitable to implement skirt fashion design. The traditional design elements required for skirt design, namely waist and hip circumferences, were set as variables in this study. The parametric design was developed to generate ideas of two skirt silhouettes (tight and flared) and three lengths (mini, knee-length, and maxi). To apply the skirt design implemented through variables to the actual 3D human shape, the shape data of women in their 20s and 30s were randomly selected from the 5th human data of Size Korea. Skirt design silhouette modeling was performed by adjusting the variable values according to body type. Parametric design has the potential to help develop design ideas in the field of fashion design, considering the method and characteristics of parameters of the variety of variables and rapid modification. Furthermore, if systematic research on variables and options among fashion design elements is conducted, the possibility of converging them into customization or co-design fashion design processes could be confirmed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.179-186
• /
• 2005

Girls' school uniform evaluative criteria and their uniform modification were investigated. The data were collected by questionnaire from 579 middle and high school girls living in Incheon during the fall of 2003. The uniform evaluative criteria consisted of five dimensions: aesthetics, comfort, economy, management, and status concealment factor. The uniform evaluative criteria were used to cluster the students into five groups: economic, practical, aesthetic, negative, and active. The uniform modifications were investigated in regard to sleeve length, sleeve width, breast width, jacket length, skirt length, hip width, and waist width. The aesthetic and the active groups intended to modify uniforms less in sleeve length and skirt length than the other three groups. There were significant differences in the uniform modifications among demographics: school years, height, weight, spending money, satisfaction/dissatisfaction with spending money, and clothing expenditures.

• 복식
• /
• 제33권
• /
• pp.217-228
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.