• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.271-285
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new basic skirt pattern for 4 lower body types of Plus-sized women. To reduce a time and economic loss about putting it on, This study applied a 3D sample module in the course to develop a basic skirt pattern which is fit, functional and beautiful. A data analysis used the SPSS 11.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, This study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. To reflect a feature according to an abdomen projection and hip projection, we added the maximum hip circumference to the waist circumference and hip circumference for necessary for a skirt draft item. The front hip circumference sets to the H/4+1cm(ease)+D/4. The back hip circumference set to the H/4+0.5cm(ease)+D/4. The D is the hip circumference in the maximum hip circumference to subtract. The front waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)+0.5cm(A front and back's difference)+D/4. The back waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)-0.5cm(A front and back's difference)-D/4. Compare with 4 lower body types of Plus-sized Women, A type 2 and type 4 abdomen projections are bigger. We raised a front waistline of skirt pattern to a 0.3cm upside, and take about 1.3cm down the skirt length from a developed skirt pattern. Consequently, the appearance of a front skirt length was improved with a side skirt length.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.392-403
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.447-454
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of four clothing cues(hue, tone, skirt width, and skirt length of dress) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The Stimuli are 40 color pictures manipulated with four clothing cues by drawing. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of female impression formation includes 29 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 240 undergraduate female students in Jinju city. The results of this study are as follow: As analyzing the impression of the female figure by the hue, tone, skirt width, and length, five factors including ability activity, elegance, attractiveness, concentration of attention, and tenderness were identified. Among these factors, ability activity and elegance were proved to be more important. Each impression of hue and tone with skirt width length have significant effects on concentration of attention, and tenderness. We can express various impressions by diversifying hue and tone. Each impression of skirt width length with hue and tone have significant effects on ability activity and elegance.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.317-328
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the effect of three clothing cues(neutral tone, skirt width, and skirt length of dress) on the impressions of females. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli were 20 color pictures manipulated with three clothing cues by drawing. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of impression formation about females included 29 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 240 undergraduate female students in Chinju city. The results of this study were as follows: By analyzing the impression of female figures by neutral tone, skirt width, and length, five factors including ability.activity, elegance, attractiveness, concentration of attention, and tenderness were identified. Among these factors, ability.activity and elegance were proved to be more important. Each impression of neutral tone with skirt width. length have significant effects on tenderness. Each impression of skirt width.length with neutral tone have significant effects on ability.activity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.49-54
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• 1997

Methods of the flare skirt pattern making are presented variously among foreign and domestic test books. Three of them are : First the method is using the basic skirt pattern, secondly the method is quartering rectangle of skirt length $\times\frac{W}4$, finally the method is substituting waist size for formula. But, these books don't include the calculating method of the hem circumference. This calculating method express the shape of flare skirt and the using length of trimming -race and frill-. This study aims at proposing the calculating formula of the hem circumference and the standardization of pattern making technical skill. The result were as follows. 1. The calculating formula of hem circumference had regular ratio in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}C$ flare. That was (HEM) = $(\frac{(5\;{\times}\;(W\;+\;1)}{4\;{\times}\;A}+(SK.L))\;{\times}\;A\;{\times}\;0.785$. A was 4 in $180^{\circ}$, 6 in $270^{\circ}$, 8 in $360^{\circ}$. 2. The error of hem circumference from 46 to 86 centimeter of waist size was between 0.11875 and -0.63125 centimeter in $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$ and $360^{\circ}$ flare skirt. This formula was less in the error.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.

• 한국추진공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국추진공학회 2012년도 제38회 춘계학술대회논문집
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• pp.403-407
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• 2012

본 연구의 목적은 최적화 해석 기법을 이용하여 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 치수를 도출하는 것이다. 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 최적화 해석은 부분문제 근사법(sub-problem approximation method) 알고리즘을 사용하였으며, APDL(ANSYS Parametric Design Language)을 이용하여 해석의 모든 과정을 일괄처리(batch processing)하였다. 설계변수로는 압력용기 스커트 부위의 두께와 길이를 선정하였으며, 내압에 의해 발생하는 변위와 무게를 각각 목적함수로 하여 최적화 해석을 통해 최적의 스커트 치수를 도출하였다. 그 결과 복합재 압력용기의 스커트 무게를 최대 4.38% 절감할 수 있었다.