• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제39권2호
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• pp.121-125
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• 2009

The objective of this study was to investigate the feasibility of applying the Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) as a tool to enhance the skin absorption of arbutin, a well-known skin-whitening agent. Arbutin solution or skin formulation was applied on the back of hairless mouse skin in vivo after IPL treatment, and then the skin deposition of arbutin was determined by HPLC. IPL treatment significantly increased the amount of arbutin in the skin after 6 hours when arbutin solution was applied 20 times. IPL also enhanced the skin deposition of arbutin when arbutin formulation was applied, although it was not significantly different. Significant increase of surface skin temperature was observed by IPL treatment, which might be a mechanism of the enhanced skin absorption of arbutin. These results suggest the feasibility of using IPL as a tool to increase the skin absorption of whitening agents, although further research needs to be conducted to understand its exact mechanism.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2017

Ultraviolet radiation have much influenced with a deep wrinkles, roughness, laxity of skin damage and pigmentation through oxidative stress and oxidative photo-damage. This study investigates the functional properties of hydrogel facial mask sheets made from agar, Styela clava tunics and Broussonetia papyrifera tunics. The skin of S. clava is covered with a hard cellulose containing glycoprotein, glycosaminoglycan and chondroitin sulfate. B. papyrifera is better known as Paper mulberry. It contains kazinol which serves as a tyrosinase inhibitor and skin whitening agent. The tensile strength of facial mask sheet was measured by universal testing machine, and the water absorption and moisture permeability of facial mask sheet were measured by dryer. Additionally, the DPPH assay and MTT assay were conducted for anti-oxidative activity and cytotoxicity of facial mask sheet. The whitening effect of the facial mask sheet was measured by tyrosinase inhibitor assay. These tests showed that the three ingredients are suitable cosmetic materials. The results reveal that they produce a high quality hydrogel facial mask sheet when the membrane contains 1%(W/V) of agar, 0.1%(W/V) of B. papyrifera tunics and 0.05%(W/V) of S. clava tunics.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.151-167
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• 2003

Melanin biosynthesis is a human defense mechanism to protect skin from UV irradiation and also determines colors of hair and skin. However, as a interest on skin-whitening increases, researches to prevent pigmentation and hypersynthesis of melanin in skin are being actively in progress. Active components used as a whitening agent in cosmeceuticals are kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C and hydroquinone. However, until now, because comparison researches among them in the aspect of both melanin formation and cellular toxicity have not been performed, we can't exactly estimate merits and defects of them as a whitening agent. To this end, we performed experiments to compare their effects on cell viability and melanin formation. As a first step, in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay was done. While kojic acid and hydroquinone showed strong inhibition activities(their IC$\_$50/s are all < 100uM), arbutin and vitamin C showed weak activities. IC$\_$50/s of arbutin and vitamin C are 100uM and 400∼500uM, respectively. In B16BL6 melanoma cells, like in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay, arbutin and kojic acid showed more strong inhibition effect on melanin synthesis than vitamin C. And unlike arbutin, vitamin C and kojic acid induced cell death at high concentration. Although arbutin showed no cytotoxicity, it has side effect to induce morphological change at high concentration.. In this paper, we suggest both kojic acid and arbutin have stronger ability to inhibit melanogenesis than vitamin C. And they also have side effect, that is, kojic acid induces cell death like vitamin C and arbutin changes cell morphology respectively.

• 한국버섯학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.225-231
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• 2016

국내시판 식용버섯의 16종의 열수 추출물을 이용하여 L-DOPA oxidation activity, melanin 합성 억제활성을 통해 미백에 가장 효능이 우수한 버섯으로 갈색백만송이버섯 (No. 10)과 흰색만가닥버섯 (No. 15)를 선별하였다. 또 멜라닌 세포와 표피가 재현된 인공피부를 이용하여 이 두 가지 버섯 열수 추출물의 미백 효과를 확인한 결과 흰색만가닥버섯 (No. 15)이 가장 우수함을 확인하였다.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.79-85
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• 2010

Enhancement effect of ultrasonification process on UV-protection and skin-whitening activities using Centella asiatica L. Urban extract was investigated. Cytotoxicity of the extracts measured on human skin fibroblast cells, CCD-986sk, and then, ultrasonification associated extracts showed 5~9% lower cytotoxicity then normal crude extracts on 1.0 mg/$m{\ell}$ of highest sample concentration. The associated extrats showed highest inhibition activity of hyaluronidase on 1.0 mg/$m{\ell}$ of concentration as 54.2%. Also, the associated extract reduced expression of MMP-1 on UV-irradiated CCD-986sk cells down to 100.2% from 136.1%, and revealed high inhibitory potency on tyrosinase as 74.6% by adding 1.0 mg/$m{\ell}$ of concentration. Ultrasonification associated extract showed strong inhibition effect of melanin production on Clone M-3 cells as 84.2% by adding 1.0 mg/$m{\ell}$ of concentration. From the preliminary observations, we considered that the extracts from C. asiatica could be potent natural materials for skin-whitening and anti-aging agent, and could enhance the activities by ultrasonification process.

• Natural Product Sciences
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.198-201
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• 2011

Tyrosinase is one of the important enzymes in the mammalian melanin synthesis. In the process of melanin synthesis, tyrosine is oxidized to DOPA (3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine), and DOPA is further oxidized to dopaquinone. Tyrosinase is an enzyme catalyzing this oxidation of tyrosine, so chemicals that inhibit the activity of tyrosinase can be used as skin whitening agents. In this study, we isolated five constituents from the 80% MeOH extract of Morus bombycis cortex by bioactivity-guided fractionation. We performed mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay. As a result, 7,2',4'-trihydroxyflavanone (1), 2',4',2,4,-tetrahydroxychalcone (2), and oxyresveratrol (3) showed the more potent inhibitory effect compared to kojic acid, a well-known skin whitening agent with antityrosinase effect. Moracinoside M (4) and moracin M-3'-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (5) also showed the moderate tyrosinase inhibitory activities.

• Natural Product Sciences
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.133-139
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• 2010

In order to develop a new skin whitening agent, approximately 100 plant extracts were evaluated for their inhibitory activities against melanin biosynthesis in cultured mouse melanocyte melan-a cells. As a result, seven extracts exhibited over 50% inhibition of melanin synthesis compared to control at a concentration of $20\;{\mu}g/ml$. In particular, Aster ageratoides Turcz. var. ageratoides (branch, root, aerial, flower; $IC_{50}$ = 17.3, 6.1, 13.6, $12.9\;{\mu}g/ml$, respectively) and Physalis alkekengi var. francheti (leaf, unripen fructus, aerial; $IC_{50}$ = 6.5, 28.3, $23.9\;{\mu}g/ml$) markedly inhibited melanin synthesis. In addition, tyrosinase activity was monitored by the measurement of dopachrome formation from the oxidation of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine. Extracts of A. ageratoides Turcz. var. ageratoides (flower) and P. alkekengi var. francheti (leaf) showed the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. These plants might be the potential candidate sources in the development of novel skin-whitening products.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.415-418
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• 2004

알부틴은 glycosylated hydroquinone으로 여러 식물들에서, 고농도로 발견되며 비교적 안정한 물질이다. 이는 멜라닌화를 억제하는 작용이 있는 것으로 보고되어 있고, 베타-글루코시다제에 의해 포도당과 hydroquinone으로 쉽게 가수분해된다. Hydroquinone 역시 우수한 항멜라닌화 작용을 가지나, 여러 가지 부작용들로 인해 그 사용이 제한적이거나 주의를 요한다. 이 연구는 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 포함하는 미백 화장품이 자외선 조사로 유도된 색소 침착을 억제하는 효과를 알아보고자 하였다. 대상은 10명의 건강한 성인으로 등 부위에 자외선 B를 조사하여 색소 침착 병변을 만들었고 이 병변들은 세 그룹: 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품 도포군, vehicle 대조군, no-application 대조군으로 나누었다. 알부틴과 베타-글주코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품 도포군은 no-application 대조군에 비교하여 색소 침착을 $50.17\%$ 억제하였다(N = 10:P<0.05). 따라서 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품이 기미 등 자외선 조사로 유도되거나 악화되는 과색소성 질환에 효과적으로 사용될 수 있겠다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.199-212
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• 2000

A series of novel ascorbic acid derivatives, polyethoxylated ascorbic acid (PEAA) were synthesized by coupling ascorbic acid with polyethylene glycol (PEG) of two molecular weights (MW: 350 and 550) at the C-2 or C-3 hydroxyl group (2PEAA350, 3PEAA350, 2PEAA550, 3PEAA550) to increase the stability and retain the activity, as a skin whitening agent. Their stability, scavenging activity against free radical, inhibitory activity against tyroxinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in Bl6 melanoma cell of PEAAs were evaluated in viかo and compared with those of ascorbic acid and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (3OEAA), a Con stable vitamin C derivative. Among PEAAs, 2PEAA350 and 2PEAA550 tad high scaveniging activity against See radical, inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and inhibitory activity if melanogenesis but low stability, 3PEAA350 had high stability and moderate scavenging activity against free radical, infibitory activity against tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanogenesis. The stability, scavenging activity against free radical and inhibitory activity of melanogenesis of 3PEAA350 were higher than those of 30EAA. The most stable 3PEAA350 among PEAAs was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that PEAA would be a good whitening agent far enhancing stability and bioavailability.

• Molecular & Cellular Toxicology
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.85-91
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• 2008

These days there is a constant possibility of exposure to UV radiation which can cause abnormal production of melanin and result in skin disease such as hyperpigmentation and melanoma. Many materials were investigated for skin whitening and protection against UV radiation. In this study, we assessed the melanogenesis inhibitory activities of Korean Red Ginseng (KRG, Ginseng Radix Rubra) and Ginkgo (EGb 761 Ginkgo Biloba) in an attempt to develop a new skin whitening agent derived from natural products. B16F10 melanoma cells were treated for 48 hr with KRG and EGb 761. The inhibitory effect on melanogenesis was measured and related cytokines and proteins expression were also investigated by RT-PCR and Western blotting. In addition, we also assessed the effects of these substances on the skin of C57BL/6 mice. Cell growth, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were inhibited effectively in B16F10 melanoma cells treated with KRG and EGb 761. Moreover, tyrosinase mRNA expression was inhibited clearly and melanogenesis related proteins (MRPs) containing tyrosinase, TRP1 and TRP2 were also reduced by KRG and EGb761, while cytokines such as IL-$1{\beta}$ and IL-6 were induced. In the case of UV irradiated mice, we observed induction of cytokine mRNA levels and reduction of MRPs mRNA expression. In addition, a decrease in pigmentation from treatment with KRG and EGb 761 on the skin of mice was observed. These results indicate that KRG and EGb 761 inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 cells and have display protective activities against UVB. Therefore, we suggest that KRG and EGb 761 are good candidates to be used as whitening agents and UVB protectors for the skin.