Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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The Anti-melanogenic Effect of Whitening Agent Containing Arbutin and ${\beta}-Glucosidase$

알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품의 항멜라닌 효과

  • Lew Bark-Lin (Department of Dermatology, College of Medicine, Kyunghee University) ;
  • Ryou Ji-Ho (Arumdaunnara Clinic) ;
  • Lee Mu-Hyoung (Department of Dermatology, College of Medicine, Kyunghee University)
  • 유박린 (경희대학교 의과대학 피부과학교실) ;
  • 류지호 (아름다운나라 피부과) ;
  • 이무형 (경희대학교 의과대학 피부과학교실)
  • Published : 2004.11.01
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Abstract

Arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone found at high concentration in certain plants capable of surviving extreme and sustained dehydration. It has been reported to have an inhibitory effect of melanogenesis and to be hydrolyzed easily to yield glucose and hydroquinone by ${\beta}-glucosidase.$ While hydroquinone also has an anti-melanogenic effect, however, is carefully used as a topical whitening agent because of side effects. The present study was undertaken to examine the inhibitory effect of an whitening agent containing arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ on UV radiation induced pigmentation in human skin. Experimental subjects were UVB-irradiated on the back. UVB-irradiated areas were assigned to three groups: arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ treated group, vehicle control, and no-application control. Arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ treatment inhibited pigmentation by 50.17 percent, compared with the controls (N : 10: P<0.05). These results suggest that the whitening agent containing arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$may be used as an agent to inhibit melanin formation induced by UV radiation.

알부틴은 glycosylated hydroquinone으로 여러 식물들에서, 고농도로 발견되며 비교적 안정한 물질이다. 이는 멜라닌화를 억제하는 작용이 있는 것으로 보고되어 있고, 베타-글루코시다제에 의해 포도당과 hydroquinone으로 쉽게 가수분해된다. Hydroquinone 역시 우수한 항멜라닌화 작용을 가지나, 여러 가지 부작용들로 인해 그 사용이 제한적이거나 주의를 요한다. 이 연구는 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 포함하는 미백 화장품이 자외선 조사로 유도된 색소 침착을 억제하는 효과를 알아보고자 하였다. 대상은 10명의 건강한 성인으로 등 부위에 자외선 B를 조사하여 색소 침착 병변을 만들었고 이 병변들은 세 그룹: 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품 도포군, vehicle 대조군, no-application 대조군으로 나누었다. 알부틴과 베타-글주코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품 도포군은 no-application 대조군에 비교하여 색소 침착을 $50.17\%$ 억제하였다(N = 10:P<0.05). 따라서 알부틴과 베타-글루코시다제를 함유하는 미백 화장품이 기미 등 자외선 조사로 유도되거나 악화되는 과색소성 질환에 효과적으로 사용될 수 있겠다.

Keywords

References

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