• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.131-147
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• 2003

In the 21st century, the development of cosmetics is led to pursue the high functionality of cosmetics with excellent effectiveness and safety. As Cosmetic Act took effect in 2000, functional cosmetics is provided in the law. As a result, the research and development of functional cosmetics has continually increased, and the number of patent applications in functional cosmetics has also rapidly increased as a plan for preoccupying in the functional cosmetics age. Now, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in developing anti-wrinkle cosmetics among functional cosmetics, because women's desire for having young resilient skin has increased since Korea entered an aging society thanks to the advanced medical technology. The patent application trends of anti-wrinkle cosmetics at home since 2000 particularly show the rapid increase in the applications in natural plant extracts. It may be because Korean consumers preference of vegetable cosmetics has resulted in the development of raw materials based on the traditional medicine. As for the existing preparation such as Retinoid or Ascorbic acid, the patent application itself will be an essential technical element in the future because patent applications are filed in the field of a preparation of cosmetics for stabilizing ingredients, reducing skin irritability or promoting absorbance, and in the field of cosmetic formulation technology. As there are many studies on the causes of skin wrinkles, it is expected that new raw materials of cosmetics can be developed due to new mechanisms, and that the number of patent applications in new technologies will increase due to a change in the thought of cosmetics accompanied by the integration of cosmetics with biotechnology using Genetic Engineering, including the practical application of the medicine previously used far treating skin diseases to an anti-wrinkle agent and the mass production of active ingredients of cosmetics.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.143-150
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• 2019

Background: Skin is an organ that protects the human body from various environmental stimuli that can induce immune system activation. Skin aging can be largely divided into two categories: physiological aging, which is caused by the a decreased physiological function of the skin and structural changes with aging, and photoaging, which is caused by the chemical stress induced by external stimuli such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Methods and Results: The objective of this study was to investigate the anti-wrinkle and UV protective effect of catechin-rich green tea extract (CGTE) in activated keratinocyte (HaCaT cells) and UV-induced skin damage in hairless mice. The results showed that CGTE inhibits the tumor necrosis factor-alpha interferon-gamma ($TNF-{\alpha}+IFN-{\gamma}$)-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 in HaCaT cells. In addition, the CGTE treatment significantly reduced wrinkle formation, epidermal thickness, collagen deposition, and transepidermal water loss in dorsal skin irradiated with UVB. However, the ${\beta}$-glucosidase activity was significantly increased. The CGTE treatment inhibits mRNA expression and enzyme activity of MMP-2 and MMP-9 in the dorsal skin irradiated with UVB. Conclusions: It is expected that CGTE can be effectively used as a functional food and cosmetic ingredient to improve skin moisture retention and reduce wrinkle formation.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.193-199
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• 2004

The decreasing effect of wrinkle on the pressure sensitive adhesive hydrogel patches containing ulmi cortex extract and sorbitol as the drug for anti-wrinkle were investigated. In this study, hydrogels were prepared by the crosslinking reaction of acrylic polymers and aluminum ions produced by L(+)-tartaric acid hydrolysis of the dihydroxy aluminum aminoacetates. The inhibition concentration of ulmi cortex extract on the collagenase exhibited at 0.01%. Furthermore, the moisturizing effect of hydrogel patches formulated with sorbitol was higher than that without it. In vivo animal test in hairless mouse showed that the ulmi cortex-loaded hydrogel patches had about 31.2% of anti-wrinkle effect compared to blank (before attaching the patches). Human test showed that only 33% of subjects showed the decreasing of wrinkle during 8 weeks. In conclusion, the model pressure sensitive adhesive hydrogel patches in this study would be pharmaceutically applicable for the wrinkle treatment on the facial skin.

• 한국응용약물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국응용약물학회 2007년도 Proceedings of The Convention
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• pp.153-158
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• 2007

Background: Naturally occurring antioxidants were used to regulate the skin damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation because several antioxidants have demonstrated that they can inhibit wrinkle formation through prevention of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and/or increase of collagen synthesis. We examined the effect of oral administration of the antioxidant mixture ("L-Skin Care") on UVB-induced wrinkle formation. In addition, we investigated the possible molecular mechanisms of photoprotection against UVB through inhibition of collagen-degrading MMP activity or through enhancing of pro collagen synthesis in mouse dorsal skin. Methods: Female SKH-l hairless mice were orally administrated "L-Skin Care" (test group) or vehicle (control group) for 10 weeks with UVB irradiation by three times a week. The intensity of irradiation was gradually increased from 30 to $180mJ/cm^2$. Microtopographic and histological assessments of the dorsal skins were carried out at the end of 10 weeks to evaluate wrinkle formation. Western blot analysis and EMSA were also carried out to investigate the changes in the balance of collagen synthesis and collagen degradation. Results: Our "L-Skin Care" significantly reduced UVB-induced wrinkle formation, accompanied by significant reduction of epidermal thickness, and UVB-induced hyperplasia, acanthosis and hyperkeratosis. Oral administration of "L-Skin Care" significantly prevented UVB-induced expressions of MMPs, mitogen-activated protein (MAP) kinases and activation of activator protein (AP)-1 transcriptional factor in addition to enhanced type I procollagen and transforming growth factor-$\beta$ (TGF-$\beta$) expression. Conclusion: Oral administration of "L-Skin Care" significantly inhibited wrinkle formation caused by chronic UVB irradiation through significant inhibition of UVB-induced MMP activity accompanied with enhancement of collagen synthesis.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.61-68
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• 2017

본 연구에서 층꽃나무(Caryopteris incana Miq.)는 항산화, 피부미백 및 주름개선 활성을 측정하는 데에 사용되었다. 층꽃나무의 생리활성은 고형분 함량보다 첨가된 total phenolic compounds의 농도에 의해 영향을 받는 것으로 확인되어 이후 모든 실험은 층꽃나무로부터 추출한 물과 80 % ethanol 추출물의 total phenolic compounds 함량을 조절하여 실시하였다. 층꽃나무 추출물의 항산화 활성은 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), antioxidant protection factor (PF), Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARs)를 측정하였다. $200{\mu}g/mL$의 농도에서 물과 ethanol 추출물로 DPPH free radical 소거능을 측정한 결과 각각 84, 92 %의 활성을 나타내었고, ABTS radical 소거능은 물과 ethanol 추출물 둘 다 약 99 %의 활성을 나타내었다. PF를 측정한 결과 물과 ethanol 추출물이 각각 1.56, 1.67 PF 값을 나타내었고, TBARs는 각각 62, 82 %의 활성을 나타내었다. 주름개선 및 피부미백 활성을 측정하였을 때, $200{\mu}g/mL$의 농도에서 80 % ethanol 추출물이 물 추출물보다 눈에 띄게 높은 효과를 나타내었다. 주름개선과 연관된 elastase와 collagenase 저해활성은 ethanol 추출물에서 각각 58, 89 %로 측정되었다. 피부미백과 연관된 tyrosinase의 저해활성은 ethanol 추출물에서 13 %로 측정되었고, 수렴효과는 50 %로 측정되었다. 이러한 결과로 보아, 층꽃나무 추출물은 항산화 활성, 주름개선 및 미백효과가 우수하므로 기능성 화장품 원료의 새로운 자원이 될 것으로 기대되었다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.213-218
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• 2005

최근 노령화 인구의 증가와 다양한 피부미용 기술들이 증대됨에 따라 피부노화 개선에 대한 소비자의 욕구가 높아지고 있다. 또한 기능성 화장품법 시행 후 효능원료 개발에 대한 연구들이 활발히 수행되고 있어 안전하며 임상학적으로 효능이 있는 주름기능성 화장품 개발은 화장품업계의 주요 관심 과제이다. 대표적인 피부 고민들 가운데 주름살 증가와 탄력성 감소와 같은 피부노화 현상을 개선할 수 있는 항주름 연구 및 항노화 원료들에 대한 연구 동향을 소개하고자 한다.

• 한방안이비인후피부과학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Objectives : Recently, the demands for the effective and safe depigmentating and anti-aging agents of the skin have increased due to the medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic reasons. The aim of this study is to search new materials from the traditional herbal medicines which inhibit the aging process of skin in vitro.Methods : Human dermis cell (HS68) was used to test the effect of Rhus verniciflua Stokes (RVS). 80% ethanol or water extracts were screened for their inhibitory activities against elastase. Elastase inhibition effect was tested by microplate reader instrument. And MMP-1 suppression effect of RVS was tested by western blot. These cells were investigated the viability by MTS assay. And also the inhibition effect of tyrosinase by RVS was tested.Results : RVS (final concentrstion 1 ㎎/㎖ appeared over 30% of inhibition of elastase activity. So we are investigated anti wrinkle effects of Rhus verniciflua Stokes look through MMP-1 inhibition activity, also Extracts of RVS showed higher anti-tyrosinase activity than arbutin as final concentration 1 mg/ml. These results suggest that herbal medicines could be strong potential sources of inhibition of anti-aging and whitening effects for the skin.Colclusions : RVS was the best suppressor candidate of elastase activity among other control oriental drugs. It was found that RVS did not have toxicity to cells. We found proper concentration of RVS to treat in HS68 culture and investigated not only wrinkle care effect but also whitening effect of RVS.

• 동의생리병리학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.691-698
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• 2008

The aims of this study are to search herbal medicines that have anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidant and whitening effects. This is preliminary study as a finding for excellent and specific natural agents which inhibit the skin aging and whitening formation. In this study, the articles and the documents, which have been published in domestically or internationally, have been searched and analyzed. Articles were gathered by taking advantage of Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea's documents, Pub med database, Korean Medical Database and Korean Studies Information Service System. Among the many species of herbal medicines, we selected the herbal medicines showing superoxide scavenging activities, and 1.1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) scavenging effects. The herbal medicines were showed anti-wrinkle effects on Metrixmetallo proteinase (MMP-1) inhibition activity and elastase inhibition activity. Also we found herbal medicines that have highly effect of tyrosinase inhibition, L- DOPA inhibition and melanin synthesis inhibition.

• 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국자원식물학회 2020년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.74-74
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• 2020

Skin is continuously exposed to a variety of environmental stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVB is an inherent component of sunlight that crosses the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis, leading to increased oxidative stress, activation of inflammatory response and accumulation of DNA damage among other effects. In the present study, the anti-wrinkle mechanism of Acorus gramineus callus culture supernatant (GB-AGS-PSC) was elucidated in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. GB-AGS-PSC prevented the matrix metalloprotease 1 (MMP-1), elastin, and pro-collagen product and cytotoxicity and SOD inhibition. Quantitative polymerase chain reaction showed that GB-AGS-PSC-treated cells displayed dose-dependent increase in messenger RNA expression levels of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Keratin 1(KRT1), fillagrin, and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS 2) and decreased expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-3, -9, and -13 in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. Additionally, GB-AGS-PSC suppressed TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-8 product for inflammatory responses in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. Therefore, GB-AGS-PSC may be useful as an anti-photoaging resource for the skin.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.37-65
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• 2003

새로운 주름개선 효능물질을 개발하기 위하여 여러 가지 세포배양 모델을 이용한 in vitro 효능물질의 검색방법을 이용하여 후보물질을 도출하고 있다. 이처럼 In vitro에서 선별된 주름개선 후보물질은 사람피부에 직접 도포 하였을 때 in vitro에서 와 는 달리 주름개선 효능이 없는 경우가 많이 있다. 즉 in vitro 검색결과와 사람피부에서의 효능은 현실적으로 큰 차이를 보인다는 것이다. 그러나 모든 효능 후보물질을 사람 피부에 직접 검사할 수는 없는 현실적 어려움이 있다. 이러한 애로점을 해결하기 위하여, 동물모델이나, 인공피부배양모델 등을 이용하는 추세이다. 이번 강의에서, 본인은 동물모델과 in vitro에서 효능 측정방법을 상세하게 리뷰 하고 각 방법에 대해 토의할 것이며, 임상 전 시험 결과를 보고 할 것이다. 그 중 특히 동물 모델은 주름개선 효능물질의 효능을 평가하는데 좋은 대상이 될 것이다.