• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-128
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• 2008

Rayon fiber as clothing material has silk-like property which relates to other synthetic fibers. It has many advantages that is required to women's clothes. However rayon has many shortcomings. Therefore this research is to spin rayon-like polyester which has high contraction property to be synthesized by previous research to solve those shortcomings and to maintain advantages of rayon. The contraction ratio of regular polyester is 30% and the contraction ratio of this synthesized polyester is over 60%. The spinning temperature of regular polyester ranges from $285^{\circ}C$ to $300^{\circ}C$. However, this copolymer is set range from $270^{\circ}C$ to $290^{\circ}C$, which is $10^{\circ}C$ less than regular polyester due to decreasing melting temperature. The spinning velocity effects the tensile strength and elongation of yarn magnificently. The high velocity of spinning makes yarn highly oriented, increases the tensile strength and decreases the elongation. This research defines the condition as following; draw ratio 2.734, First roller temperature $85^{\circ}C$, Slit heater temperature $175^{\circ}C$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.15-24
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• 1996

Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.68-72
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• 1990

The color fastness of Korean silk fabrics was measured in this investigation. The sample fabrics under examination were divided into four groups, according to the processing cycle: 1) Plain dyeing(A-C) : 2) Yarn dyeing(D;E=Knitted fabric) ; 3) Direct printing(F-H) ; 4) Discharge Printing(I-P) : The following result can be obtained. Among the samples examined, both the plain-dyed(brilliant colours) and discharge-printed (put-in colours) fabrics show lower values of water, perspiration and ironing color fastness compared with those recommended by International Organization for Standardization(I. S. O.)

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.51-57
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• 1984

This studies have been carried out to find anticrease finishing method other than urea formaldehyde polymerization method which the author had done it with his former report. Acrylic amide polymerization method with water solubility controlling device was developed in this parer and the obtained results are as followings. 1. Poor anticrease silk textile could improve as much as 25% than original fabric. 2. Light density with high twisted silk textiles may improve a few per cent increase of anticrease, because they held good anticrease nature as well as polyester fabric. 3. There was no significant stiffness change after such finish. 4. This finish is recommended to carry after dyeing process either yarn dye or cloth dyeing. 5. The finished textile with this method is recommended to wash with dry cleanning method.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.186-191
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• 2005

In this study, a microorganism-produced protease was used to improve the quality of fabrics. First, the protease-producing bacteria were isolated from soils, and one of them was selected and identified as Bacillus sp. SJ-121. The optimal medium composition for its growth and protease production was determined to be as follows: glucose 1g/L, soybean meal 0.5g/L, soy peptone 0.5, $K_2HPO_4\;0.2,\;MgSO_4\cdot7H_2O\; 0.002,\;NaCl\;0.002,\;and\;Na_2CO_3g/L$. Also, the optimal temperature for the production of the protease by Bacillus sp. SJ-121 was about $40^{\circ}C$ at pH 7. The wool and silk were treated with the protease from Bacillus sp. SJ-121. Following the protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed by both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis, in order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabrics. We also performed a tensile strength examination in order to determine the degree and nature of mechanical changes in single yarns of the wool and silk fabrics. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48 h, the dyeing characteristics of the fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, due to the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Therefore, we suggest that proper treatment of the protease produced by Bacillus sp. can improve the quality of silk and wool.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.42-56
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.