연사방법에 따른 아세테이트/폴리에스터 복합사 편성물의 역학적 특성 및 3D CAD System에 의한 외관특성

• Kim, So-Jin (Dept. Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
• Jeon, Dong-Won (Dept. Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
• Park, Young-Hwan (Digital Dyeing Technology Team, Korea Institute Industrial Technology)
• 김소진 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
• 전동원 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
• 박영환 (한국생산기술연구원 디지털염색팀)
• Published : 2006.02.01

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

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