• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.46-58
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• 2016

Architecture and Fashion mutually affects the shape and appearance of the other as an art of space according to the hybrid trends. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find the correlations between the characteristics of traditional architecture types in Southeast Asia and modern fashion. Firstly, characteristics of the types obtained through the theoretical consideration of Southeast Asian architectural tradition include vertical, symmetrical, geometrical, epeated and continual structure. On the basis of these characteristics analyzed from 2013's S/S to 2015's F/W collection of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Victor & Rolf, designers with strong creative and experimental minds who juxtaposed designs of two opposing points as well as hybrids since 2000, the following formativeness exists. First, the vertical structure of high floor is represented as a straight silhouette, a color contrast, vertical cut or wrinkle. Hence, it impresses verticality, rhythm, etc. Second, symmetrical structure of the gable roof is represented as a trapezoidal shape starting from the shoulder line or neck line widened into sleeves, impressing symmetry, dynamism, etc. Third, the geometry of the assembled is represented as vertical and horizontal bands or pattern pieces like puzzle, impressing geometry, three-dimensional, etc. Fourth, repeated structure of the weaving pattern is represented as repetitive patterns of woven fabric or printing techniques. Thus, it impresses repeatability, harmony, etc. And lastly, continuous group structure is represented as a connection of collars or hem-lines, as well as a crossing of fabric that impresses continuity, liquidity, etc.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Femme Fatale in Film Noir is a wicked woman character who seduces the male partner to a ruin. In the film, the dress style is of extreme importance for the personality creation of the character as well as the development of the plot. With this background, I have looked over the Femme Fatale dress style that appears in the movie . First, it expresses Femme Fatale which stresses the feminine trait by a dress style with enlarged chest and hip parts and long, slim silhouette with tight waist and knee line. Second, the Femme Fatale with pretended purity presents narcissistic satisfaction like a saint virgin by wearing a neck-high one-piece dress embellished with frills, but the use of mirror represents self-alienation and the vanity of purity. Third, the Femme Fatale with its military dress style presents authoritative sternness which leads seduced male into ruin with its destructive power. Fourth, wearing jersey type or knitted wear that sticks to the body presents sensual Femme Fatale. Fifth, the tulle, chiffon, and white handkerchief used for the creation of grotesque Femme Fatale represents harmlessness and prohibition of immoral behavior, and the black gloves, pillbox, and the number on the tulle present her uneasy psychological state from the fear of being discovered after murdering her husband. On the other hand, the see-through tulle presents alluring sensual beauty. Sixth, the combination of the dialogue in the final sequence and drapery type as in Greek goddess represents the saint virgin of salvation who acknowledges her own fault and returns to her purity again. In addition, accessories and others made from shining material represent hidden conspiracy through simple dress and contradictory dynamics, and shoes embellished with bonbon, etc represent sexual implications in connection with male.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.113-126
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to investigate the level of latest fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers and differences in the level of fashion adoption according to characteristics of brands and merchandise. Thus, this study was to be an exploratory study to examine the trends in fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers. The questionnaire consisted of questions on 7 elements of fashion adoption and characteristics of men's wear manufacturers and their merchandise. The subjects were to evaluate their level of fashion adoption and rated on 5 point Likert-type scales of 7 elements. For the survey, the subjects were 100 employees (62 merchandisers, and 24 designers, etc.) who are employed by men’s wear manufacturers which have national brands, designer brands, license brands, import brands or private brands. The SAS PC+ package was used to calculate factor analysis, mean, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan's test, and Tukey's test. The results from the study were as follows: 1) The elements of fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers were divided into 4 factors (clolr/fabric, silhouette/fashion image, detail/item coordination, accessories) which explained 83.61% of the whole of factors. 2) The highest score of mean of fashion adoption factors was fabric/color, but the lowest was accessory factor. 3) There were significant positive correlations between fashion adoption factors except between fabric/color and accessories. 4) There were significant differences in the level of fashion adoption according to types of brands and ages of target consumers. 5) There were significant differences in the level of fashion adoption according to the categories of apparel (suits vs. casual clothing) and types of suits and casual wear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.55-72
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is for consideration of the flapper fashion (1924-1928) in Jazz Age (1919-1929) of America and the influences of it on modern fashion. This study is started from the latest fashion trend which is pursuing it's inspiration into the Jazz Age, the 20s. The etimology of 'flapper' was based on mines is 'flap' such as 'flutter of skirt hemline', 'hands', 'arms', 'wings' and a slang which was applied to young women from 1830. In 20th century it has meant not only new American women but also their fashion and attitude. The designs of flapper fashion were expressed by simplicity, functionality, nudity and rhythm. Simplicity was the best value of this time and the simple image was considered the smartest. Functionality was represented by straight boyish style and loose baggy silhouette that was related to free dome. Nudity was expressed by revealing of legs, arms, backs in shapes and see-through by materials. It was related to sexual attraction and point to youth. Rhythm of flapper fashion expressed optical effect of movement. Using of light material was deep related to freedom of flappers, speed, rhythmical Jazz and dancing. The influences of flapper fashion were giving an opportunity that changed fashion leader from high class to young popular group and simple design of flapper fashion effected to modernization and popularization of American apparel business. And it influenced American casual fashion which was known as brightness, youth and openhearted mood. So flapper fashion can be reganded as the starting point of the street fashion of the 20th century.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.15-32
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to detect the effect of the lower body type on the shape of flare skirts. The subjects for the wearing test were 50 female students, who were controlled in their hip and waist shapes. The skirts used for wearing test were six types(three flar angles $\times$ two fabric types). The effect of lower body type on the shape of flare skirts was determind by the hemline trace method and the silhouette photography. The data were then analyzed by the repeated measures of analysis of variance and the SNK multiple range test. The results obtained from this study were as follows : 1) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle and better drapable fabric was worn, the numeric of the nodes increased as the drop value(hip - waist) increased. When a flare skirt made with smaller flare angle was worn, the width of horizontal sectio of hemline increased as the drop value increased. The hemline uneveness decreased on the sides and back as the drop value increased. When a flare skirt made with worse drapable fabric was worn, the sides angle of the flarskirt increased as the drop value increased. 2) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the numeric of nodes increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The wave-height increased and the back variation ratio of wave-height was higher than the front variation ratio of wave-height as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The hemiline uneveness decreased on the back as the ratio of dropped hip increased. When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the sides angle of the flare skirt increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to apply a concept of open structure to clothing design and to verify the characteristics found in the various types of clothing which has open structure. The literatures from various academic fields including philosophy, literature, social science, architecture, and fine arts are investigated to define the concept of openness and to analyze it from the perspectives both of the visual and of the moaning of openness. This paper is to identify the types and the characteristics of clothing by future intention, complexity, discontinuity of open structure. By closely examining fashion design after 1980s found in fashion collection publications and designer's websites, the results of this study are as follows: first, the concept of openness can be classified into two different levels, that is, visual and meaning, secondly, in clothing the concept of open structure is applied to the meaning side by future intention, by complexity and by discontinuity. Open structure through future Intention has new content and interpretation and must have the possibility of intelligence awakening, future guidance and basic contents. Open structure through complexity has secondary function exists concurrent with the shape key example is the smart clothes with the digital functions. It has functions of amusement, supplement and protective, and is future clothes which satisfies with health, welfare, desire of beauty. Open structure with discontinuity is clothes with dramatic changes in system, structures and states. Structure can be changed by silhouette, detail, or fabric, material, or dramatic and practical function as tools in terms of productions and environment. This study can help to formulate and to integrate the concept of open structure in clothing with various phases and enhance the value of clothes by showing an application of the concept of openness to the clothing in meaning level.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to identify the esthetic features of femme fatale character fashions, which are shown in Movie . The feature of evil femineity is the attribute of evil which brings men to ruin by the dangerous, cunning, and cruel trick, and is expressed in black color, red color, and slash fashion. This fashion shows the dark reverse side of women's sexual desire in relation to anxiety, evil, and death. The feature of sensuality evokes physical pleasures or desires, and maximizes the exposure of sexual regions by tightening or loosening women's body. In the fashion expressing this feature, the forms are fit or loose silhouette. and the colors are black and red. and the materials are soft. This fashion seems to deconstruct the past concept of sex consciousness and emphasize the independent and autonomous femineity. The feature of positiveness combines feminine elements with masculine elements in relation to power elements. This feature is expressed in tailored suit and trousers, with few patterns and details, and in black color and gray color. This fashion reflects the aggressive, challenging, and independent femineity, and expresses the potential defense for the weakness and danger of female body. The feature of purity expresses the earnest and truthful mind, and is expressed in the soft and light one-piece dress, the elegant suit, and the pink color and black color fashion. This fashion shows angel-like and reliable womanly beauty, but at the same time shows women's attribute which changes their behavior and thinking every moment, so that this fashion shows women's double-sided attribute which combines women's weakness and violence, or tenacity and conflict.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.83-97
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• 2006

This Study is a thesis presenting handicrafty and decorative textile design as well as sensual fashion design through the works of Gustav Klimt. The result is as below; The formative qualities in the works of Klimt could be featured as decorativeness, sensuality and symbolism. First, the decorative inclination is prominent in the portrait and the effect is maximized with the golden mosaic shape expressed on the dress and the background influenced by the Byzantine. Second, the sensuality could be recognized directly from the women's pose or facial expression in the works of Klimt, otherwise appeared on the refined expression showed on the portraits of noble lady Third, to surpass the reality, Klimt preferred the symbolic expression, which can be shown on the patterns in the works addressing the themes such as the legends and myths, or figures of men and women expressed with the image of an abstract features of membrum. The development of the textile design is as fellowed. First, it analyzes and reconstitutes the formativeness and the element of design in the works of Klimt by the flow of the form factor. Second. it makes a pattern of a single nature through perception, analysis, description and drawing and expresses with realization of the characteristics of Klimt. Focusing on the handicrafts and decorativeness out of the latest trends and making the most use of the sensuality, the designed textiles were completed by the handicrafty techniques, used in the fashion design and completed as the design of sensual images. The textile development aims at minimizing the limit of design that can be caused by the absence of silhouette and detail, expanding the range of its creativity of fashion designs and creating fashion design high value-added.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.45-59
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to identify fashion trend in the late 1990's by using content analysis of the design elements of wedding dresses in wedding magazine photographs. The data were selected among the wedding dress photographs in 1997 issues of two wedding's magazines, 'My wedding'and 'She's Bride'. The identified 455 photographs were classified into 15 major-categories of silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, materials, and trimmings, etc. 15 major-categories were consisted of 232 sub-categories. In the late 1990's, fashion trends of wedding dresses have mixed mainly dome silhouettes(56.0%), bell silhouettes, and tubular silhouettes. One-piece forms(90.8%) were familar more than two-piece forms. Necklines were used mainly such as square neckline(14.0%), high necklines(13.0) blended with other off-shoulder necklines, heart-shape necklines, and sweet-heart necklines, etc. Also camisole and strapless were added in neckline. Long-tight sleeves dominated at the late 1990's because that were used most (21.1%) among 22 sleeves sub-categories. And short sleeve, ruffled below-elbow length sleeves, and french sleeves were also used with the other sleeves. Long length in skirts(98.4%) were common but mini length were used rarely. Satin, lace, and solid cloth were the main materials in wedding dresses, however, spandex and velvet were also used. Various trimmings such as flowers(corsages), ribbons blended with embroidery, small flowers, buttons, frills, strings, and fur trimming are used. Especially, flowers used most(11.8%) among 61 trimmings sub-categories. But simplicity was shown in trimmings because there were dresses not having any decorations(14.3%). The wedding dress of the late 1990's has become more varied in design due to the reflection of changes in society and fashion of everyday garments while the traditional design of the wedding dress has been preserved.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.