• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.26-43
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• 2023

This study sought to typify and characterize the upper body shape of women with large breasts by classifying only Korean adult women aged 20-69 years whose difference dimension between bust and underbust circumference was 12.5 cm or greater. This study attempted to provide necessary information for the development of upper body clothing for women with large busts. Upper body horizontal, upper body height, shoulder size, upper body length, and shoulder slop factor were extracted to constitute upper body shapes of women with large busts. Upper body shapes of women with large busts were classified into four types: low obese upper body tall body type, high normal upper body short body type, drooping shoulders slender upper body tall body type, and broad shoulders slender upper body short body type. Upper body proportions of women with and without large busts were analyzed as follows. Women with large breasts had narrower shoulder width compared to bust width and waist width. Their underbust and waist circumferences were larger than their bust circumferences. For the development of tops for women with large busts, bodice pattern development was required, taking into account shoulder width, chest, and upper body length. Future studies should focus on angles of busts in more detail. Research should be conducted on the development of bodice by upper body type of women with large busts analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.82-91
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: 3 variations of the shoulder length and 7 variations of the puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Frequency, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The result of the study are as follows. The visual effects by the shoulder length and puff volume are composed of 4 factors : the width of the upper body, the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm. In these factors, the width of the upper body is estimated by most important factor. In view of the visual effects by variation of the shoulder length, the shorter shoulder length goes, the more positive visual image comes in the shape of the breast part. In comparison of the differences of visual effects by the 7 variations of puff volume, the arm looks thin and long when the puff volume goes enough and the breast part has a better visual assesment in case the puff volume goes poor. In the interaction effects between the shoulder length and puff volume, the shoulder length have significant differences in the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm and puff volume has significant difference in the width of the upper body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.631-646
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of visual evaluation about silhouette image. The specific objective were; 1) to construct of silhouette image evaluation instrument using semantic differential scale for the purpose of measuring the width and length; 2) to identify the factor structure of the silhouette; 3) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of width; 4) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of length; 5) to test interaction effect between width and length. The major finding were; For the visual evaluation of silhouette as shoulder width variatiorl, there were significant difference in hardness and softness factor. For the hard and soft image, we should express by variation of the shoulder width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt width variation, there were significant difference in attention factor. For the attensive image, we should express by variation of the skirt width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt length variation, there were significant difference in activity factor. For the active image, we should express by variation of the skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 1970

1. For the purpose of making the basic pattern construction 100 girls attending the Seoul National University College of Home Economics were measured in finding of body size and coefficient of correlation which would be used as one basis of this study. 2. Coefficient of correlation of each body part based on the breast width was shown as follows; Correlation coefficients of bust to waist and hip were high and those of bust to shoulder width, neck height, back width, and breast width were low. None of that was found between bust and back length. It was not recognized so scientific to adjust the basic pattern construction with figures proportioned by those of neck, shoulder width, breast width, and back width. 3. The method of basic pattern construction obtained by this research has been demonstrated in direct wearing since 1967. It is believed that the result will contribute a great benefit in teaching clothing as well as in mass production industry of ready-made garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.563-575
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• 2024

This study analyzed 2D bodice sloper changes according to combinations of the lateral neck and shoulder points of a 3D mannequin's shoulder lines. The relationship between the 3D shape and 2D pattern was analyzed. The shoulder line was set to a default of 1cm in front of or behind the lateral neck point, 1cm in front or behind the lateral shoulder point and 1cm vertically above the lateral neck or shoulder point. When the lateral neck point was moved backward, the front neck depth, front and back shoulder height, and shoulder length in the 3D shape increased, whereas the back neck's depth and width decreased. In the 2D pattern, the back shoulder height decreased. As the lateral shoulder point moved backward, all items of the 3D shape showed little change. However, the front shoulder height for the 2D pattern decreased. Consequently, the back shoulder height increased, and the lateral neck point was raised vertically by 1cm. Meanwhile, only the back neck depth and shoulder length decreased while all other items increased; however, in the 2D pattern, the front neck width and shoulder line showed no notable change. The shoulder point was raised vertically by 1cm, and the front and back shoulder heights of the 3D shape and 2D pattern were decreased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.593-602
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• 2023

This study aimed to facilitate the use of virtual technologies such as sewing, appearance, and material expression in 3D virtual wear programs. For product production and education, we expounded how to express the shoulder shape and silhouette of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets. Two designs of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets were selected, and virtual jackets were produced using a virtual avatar based on the body dimensions of female subjects in their 20s. The essential purpose of a 3D virtual power shoulder jacket is to express the shoulder angle rise and shoulder width, which are much wider than the avatar's shoulder. Therefore, the virtual pad values were adjusted for the collision and rendering of each thickness. In addition, the position and angle of the virtual pads were controlled through simulation. Appearance similarity was evaluated using photographic data and the virtual jackets. For the set-in sleeve virtual power shoulder jacket, the wrinkle expressions of the torso and sleeve were rated as moderate, and material expression was slightly insufficient. The similarity of some ease and width items of the torso was tightly expressed, and the overall appearance, positions of lines, and details of jackets were rated high, especially at the neck and sleeve shapes. In the case of the kimono virtual power shoulder jacket, the expressions of the torso wrinkles and buttons were slightly lower; however, the overall similarity, basic lines, ease, shoulder and neck details, and material expression of the virtual jackets were highly evaluated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.58-64
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• 2011

This study evaluated the effects of the handle width(shoulder width, 1.25${\times}$shoulder width, 1.5${\times}$shoulder width), height(3 levels : knee, medium, knuckle) and horizontal angle($0^{\circ}$, $10^{\circ}$) on the pushing, lifting, and twisting strengths which were required for carrying single or two wheel barrows. Twelve healthy college students(male) participated in the experiment. In each experimental condition($3{\times}3{\times}2$=18), the subjects exerted three forces(pushing, lifting, and twisting clockwise). The experimental conditions and three forces were tested in random order, and a minimum 2 minutes of rest was provided between exertions. Results showed that the mean and maximum pushing forces showed greater values when the horizontal angle was $0^{\circ}$ than $10^{\circ}$(p=0.016). However, the three independent variables had no statistically significant effects on the lifting forces(p>0.1). The mean and maximum twisting forces increased as the handle width became larger(p<0.05). Also, there was a marginal effect of the horizontal angle(p=0.065) on the twisting force. From the results of this study, the horizontal angle of $0^{\circ}$ and the wider handle width were suggested for the design of single-wheel barrows.