• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.212-218
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• 2008

A possible source of resonant problems in a harbor is long waves generated by incident wave groups. The analytical solutions of the governing equations of second-order long waves derived using a multiple-scale perturbation method consist of the locked and free long waves. The locked long waves propagate at some group velocity, whereas the free long waves propagate at the shallow-water speed. To study the resonance of free long waves, a trapezoidally varying topography is employed. With certain combinations of incident angle, water depth, and ambient current velocity, free long waves can be trapped and resonated.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.99-107
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• 1981

A partial differential equation for the adjusted sea level, obtained from the long wave equations in shallow water, is reduced to a simpler one by the use of physically reasonable approximations based on the observations. The similar equation for the stream function indicates that shelf waves are generated by the longshore wind stress. This indication is in good agreement with the high correlation between the adjusted sea levels and the longshore wind stress. From the dispersion relationship and the boundary conditions, there exist a countable infinite number of modes which satisfy a first-order wave equations. The adjusted sea level for a given wind stress can easily be calculated by utilizing the convolution and the Fourier transformation. Some detailed solutions are presented here for sinusoidal and exponential wind stress.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.50-61
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• 2001

In this paper, nonlinear interactions between water waves and a horizontally submerged circular cylinder are numerically simulated. In this case, the nonlinear interactions between them generated a wave breaking phenomenon. The wave breaking phenomenon plays an important role in the wave farce. Negative drifting forces are raised at shallow submerged cylinders under waves because of the wave breaking phenomenon. For the numerical simulation, a finite difference method based on the unsteady incompressible Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation is adopted in the rectangular grid system. The free surface is simulated with a computational simulation method of two-layer flow by using marker density. The results are compared with some existing computational and experimental results.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers Conference
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• 2000.10a
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• pp.405-411
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• 2000

This study reviews qualitatively the flow characteristics around th tidal gap during seadike closures using a three-dimensional model for shallow water equations. The Princeton Ocean Model(POM) was adapted and applied to the Sihwa Seadike which was closed in 1994. The simulated flow patterns around the gap showed that tidal velocities increase with the cross-sectional area during ebb tide. The accelerated flow extended to wider zones passing the gap, and shock waves were generated. Vertical tidal velocity profiles were affected as the bottom scours developed beyond normal conditions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.161-167
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• 1992

We consider the preparation of long finite amplitude nondispersive waves over a step bottom between two regions of finite different depths. Two dimensional motion is assumed. with the wave crests parallel to the step, and irrotational flow in the inviscid fluid is considered. To describe the transformation of finite amplitude waves we use the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, the conditions of mass flow conservation and pressure continuity at the cut above the step in Riemann's variables. The equations define four families of curves-characteristics on which the values of the Riemann's invariants remain constant and a system of two nonlinear equations that relates the amplitudes of incident reflected and transmitted waves. The system obtained is difficult to analyze in common form. Thus we consider some special cases having practical usage for tsunami waves. The results obtained are compared with the long wave theory and significant nonlinear effects are found even for quite small amplitude waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.95-106
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• 1999

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.344-355
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• 2020

Tropical cyclone scale vortices and associated Rossby waves were investigated numerically using high-resolution barotropic models on the global domain. The equations of the barotropic model were discretized using the spectral transform method with the spherical harmonics function as orthogonal basis. The initial condition of the vortex was specified as an axisymmetric flow in the gradient wind balance, and four types of basic zonal states were employed. Vortex tracks showed similar patterns as those on the beta-plane but exhibited more eastward displacement as they moved northward. The zonal-mean flow appeared to control not only the west-east translation but also the meridional translation of the vortex. Such a meridional influence was revealed to be associated with the beta gyre and the Rossby wave, which are formed around the vortex due to the beta effect. In the case of the basic zonal state of climatological mean, the meridional translation speed reached the maximum value when the vortex underwent recurving.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-108
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• 2001

Along the shoreline a special treatment is required to simulate movement of periodic waves such as tsunami and tide because of continuous movement of shoreline as waves rise and recede. A moving boundary treatment is first proposed to track the movement of shoreline in this study. The treatment is then employed to obtain a maximum inundation area to be used for mitigation of coastal flooding. The obtained maximum inundation zone for a specific location is compared to that of available observed data. A reasonable agreement is observed.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.937-947
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• 2003

A shoreline, which has no the water depth, moves continuously as waves rise up and recede. Therefore, a special boundary treatment is required to track properly the movements of the shoreline in numerical modeling of the behavior of tsunamis or tides near a coastal zone. In this study, convective terms in nonlinear shallow-water equations are discretized explicitly by using a second-order upwind scheme to describe a moving shoreline more accurately. An oscillatory flow motion in a circular paraboloidal basin has been employed to validate the performance of the developed numerical model. Computed results of instantaneous free surface displacements are compared with those of analytical solutions and existing numerical solutions. The run-up heights in the vicinity of a circular island have also been calculated and obtained numerical results have been shown against available laboratory measurements. A good agreement has been observed.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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• v.19 no.12
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• pp.2263-2269
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• 2005

The ship wave phenomena in the restricted waterway were investigated by a numerical analysis. The Euler and continuity equations were employed for the present study. The boundary fitted and moving grid system was adopted to enhance the computational efficiency. The convective terms in the governing equations and the kinematic free surface boundary condition were solved by the Constrained Interpolated Profile (CIP) algorithm in order to solve accurately wave heights in far field as well as near field. The advantage of the CIP method was verified by the comparison of the computed results by the CIP and the Maker and Cell (MAC) method. The free surface flow simulation around Wigley hull was performed and compared with the experiment for the sake of the validation of the numerical method. The present numerical scheme was applied to the free surface simulation for various canal sections in order to understand the effect of the sectional shape of waterways on the ship waves. The wave heights on the side wall and the shape of the wave patterns with their characteristics of flow are discussed.