• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.20 no.A
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• pp.139-148
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• 2000

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves, and depth averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave. The numerical model is correctly formulated by using both the finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction and the explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference scheme, also satisfactorily verified by comparison with the other results. The behaviors of reflected and transmitted waves with respect to geometric parameters of submerged breakwater such as the slope, crest depth, and crest width are numerically analyzed in this study. In particular, the reflection and transmission coefficients are quantitatively calculated as the function of geometric parameter of submerged breakwater. It is found that the crest depth among parameters related to practical design may be the most important parameter in designing the submerged breakwater. Therefore, the effective and economic performances of submerged breakwater should be depended on the determination of optimal crest depth.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.449-457
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• 1998

Using a numerical model solving the shallow-water equations, unusual huge run-up heights observed in the lees of both Babi and Okushiri islands were investigated in detail. The effects of incident tsunami widths were particularly examined by adjusting the transverse length of the wave-maker in laboratory and numerical experiments. The calculated run-up heights were compared with the laboratory experimental data. It has been found that the run-up heights in the lee of a conical island are strongly dependent on the ratio of a transverse length of incident tsuanmis to a base diameter of the island. Keywords : shallow-water equations, tsunami, run-up height, conical island.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.187-195
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• 2001

In this study, a numerical model describing the shallow-water equations is newly developed by using a TVD scheme. The model has a second-order accuracy in time and space and is free from nonphysical oscillations, even in the vicinity of large gradients. Because a upwind based TVD scheme requires a Riemann solver, the HLLC scheme is employed in this model. To calibrate the applicability and accuracy, the developed model is used to simulate dam-break waves in an ideal channel and a sloshing flow n a paraboloidal basin. Agreements between numerical predictions and analytical solutions are very resonable.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.10-15
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• 2012

Wave characteristics in the presence of energy damping are investigated using the linear shallow water equations. To get the phase and energy velocities, geometric optics approach is used and then these values are validated through numerical experiments. Energy damping affects wave height, phase and energy velocities which result in wave transformation. When the complex wavenumber is used by the Eulerian approach, it is found that the phase velocity decreases as the damping increases while the energy velocity increases showing higher values than the phase velocity. When the complex angular frequency is used by the Lagrangian approach, the energy-damping wave group is found to propagate in the energy velocity. The energy velocity is found to affect shoaling and refraction coefficient which is verified through numerical experiments for waves on a plane slope.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2008.09a
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• pp.204-207
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• 2008

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2008.09b
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• pp.204-207
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• 2008

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.198-198
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• 2011

The numerical simulation of dam break problem suffers from several challenges in terms of accuracy, stability, and versatility of the simulation algorithm since the water flow is generally discontinuous and presents abrupt variations. Thus, to obtain stable and accurate solutions, flow models for this purpose require numerical schemes provided with shock-capturing properties, and with the ability to work with flexible two-dimensional meshes. In this context, SU/PG method(Hughes and Brooks, 1979) is excellent candidate for the solution of the dam break problem. The weak formulation of the equations and the discontinuous polynomial basis lead to an accurate representation of bore waves(shocks). Furthermore, the discretization of the domain in finite elements is extremely effective in modeling complex geometries. In this study, a finite element model based on the SU/PG scheme is developed to solve shallow water equations and the model is applied to dam break problem. It is found that the present model accurately captures the bore wave that propagates downstream while spreading laterally and the depression wave that moves upstream. Furthermore, the propagation and formation of water surface profile compared favorably with those obtained by the previously published results.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.50 no.9
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• pp.647-652
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• 2017

Many islands are scattered around the southern area of the Korean Peninsula and they may be very vulnerable to unexpected tsunami attacks. During the East Japan Tsunami Event occurred on March 11, 2011, many islands located at the southern area were affected by tsunamis. In this study, maximum run-up heights of solitary waves on a circular island with asymmetrical crest lengths investigated by using a numerical model based on the shallow-water theory. The obtained results could be used by local authorities to establish a defense plan against unexpected tsunami invasion.