• 충청수학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.381-391
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• 2012

In this paper, the formal linearization method is used to construct multisoliton solutions for three model of shallow water waves equations. The three models are completely integrable. The formal linearization method is an efficient method for obtaining exact multisoliton solutions of nonlinear partial differential equations. The method can be applied to nonintegrable equations as well as to integrable ones.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.429-438
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• 2005

본 연구에서는 Boussinesq 방정식을 이용하여, 불규칙 파랑의 직접적인 해석이 가능한 한 쌍의 상미분방정식을 유도하였다. 입사파랑은 TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) 천해 스펙트럼을 이용하여 재현하였으며, 지배방정식은 4차 Runge-Kutta 법을 이용하여 적분하였다. 새로 유도된 파랑 방정식을 이용하여, 일정 수심을 진행하는 파랑의 비선형 에너지 교환효과를 계산하였다. 또한, 일정 경사면의 정현파형 지형을 통과하는 불규칙파랑의 특성에 관해 수치적으로 검토하였다. 비선형성이 불규칙파랑의 통과와 반사에 큰 영향을 주었다.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제13권1_2호
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• pp.53-65
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• 2003

Here we present a study of small-amplitude, shallow water waves on sloping beds. The beds considered in this analysis are linear and quadratic in nature. First we start with stating the relevant governing equations and boundary conditions for the theory of water waves. Once the complete prescription of the water-wave problem is available based on some assumptions (like inviscid, irrotational flow), we normalize it by introducing a suitable set of non-dimensional variables and then we scale the variables with respect to the amplitude parameter. This helps us to characterize the various types of approximation. In the process, a summary of equations that represent different approximations of the water-wave problem is stated. All the relevant equations are presented in rectangular Cartesian coordinates. Then we derive the equations and boundary conditions for small-amplitude and shallow water waves. Two specific types of bed are considered for our calculations. One is a bed with constant slope and the other bed has a quadratic form of surface. These are solved by using separation of variables method.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2003년도 학술발표회논문집(2)
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• pp.1063-1066
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• 2003

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.285-290
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• 2013

선형과 천해 edge wave로 구분되는 이들의 거동을 더 잘 이해하기 위해 비교하였다. 본 연구에서는 변수분리법을 사용하여, Ursell (1952)이 해의 유도과정 없이 제시한, 선형 edge wave의 해를 얻었다. 천해 edge wave는 비록 천해방정식으로부터 유도되지만 분산특성을 갖는다. 완만한 해저경사의 경우, 천해 파형은 선형 파형과 거의 같게 되고 천해 파형은 다루기가 쉬운 장점이 있다. Gaussian 분포형태의 이동체에 의해 생성되는 edge wave를 계산하기 위해 천해 고유파형으로 전개한 해를 구성하였고, 이에 대한 결과를 제시하고 특성을 기술하였다.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제21권B호
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

불규칙파를 스펙트럼으로 파악하여 천해에서 천수, 굴절, 회절, 마찰 및 쇄파 등에 의하여 변이하는 현상을 해석하였다. 지배방정식은 에너지보존식과 파수벡타보존식인데 파수벡타보존식에 회절효과를 고려하는 항을 포함하였다. 스펙트럼형상을 재현하기 위하여는 선형누적법을 사용하였으며, 스펙트럼에 대한 대표 마찰계수를 간단히 산정하는 약산식을 개발, 사용하여 마찰손실효과를 고려하였다. 또한 천해역에서의 쇄파를 고려하기 위하여 Kitaigorodskii의 평형조건식을 수정하여 적용하였다. 본 연구에서 개발된 모형을 실험조건에 적용하여 검증한 결과, 계산치가 실측치와 잘 일치함을 알 수 있었다.

• Korean Journal of Mathematics
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.11-27
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• 2015

Nonlinear partial differential equations are more suitable to model many physical phenomena in science and engineering. In this paper, we consider three nonlinear partial differential equations such as Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation which serves as a model for the unidirectional propagation of the shallow water waves over a at bottom. The main objective in this paper is to apply the generalized Riccati equation mapping method for obtaining more exact traveling wave solutions of Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation. More precisely, the obtained solutions are expressed in terms of the hyperbolic, the trigonometric and the rational functional form. Solutions obtained are potentially significant for the explanation of better insight of physical aspects of the considered nonlinear physical models.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제28권1_2호
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• pp.383-395
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• 2010

In the present paper, we construct the traveling wave solutions involving parameters of nonlinear evolution equations in the mathematical physics via the (3+1)- dimensional potential- YTSF equation, the (3+1)- dimensional generalized shallow water equation, the (3+1)- dimensional Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation, the (3+1)- dimensional modified KdV-Zakharov- Kuznetsev equation and the (3+1)- dimensional Jimbo-Miwa equation by using a simple method which is called the ($\frac{G'}{G}$)- expansion method, where $G\;=\;G(\xi)$ satisfies a second order linear ordinary differential equation. When the parameters are taken special values, the solitary waves are derived from the travelling waves. The travelling wave solutions are expressed by hyperbolic, trigonometric and rational functions.