• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.933-945
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시 $\rightarrow$ 하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings : $\circled1$robe, $\circled2$ jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit, $\circled3$ coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.236-247
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• 2002

In spite of the bad conditions of fashion companies: the number of licit wear consumers in Korea are increasing because knit wear gives a body with an comfort action. Domestic knit wear industry, however, doesn't have any standard fur satisfying consumers'needs and for quality estimation on that. So we examined the knit wearers'conception of the quality to broaden the knowledge of knit wear and produce better products. The purpose of this study was to find out the factors of wearer's perception. This study carried out through a qualitative approach. The subject of this study were 17 single women who were 20's and living in Seoul and Kyoungki province. The item of this questionary was as follow: 1) what they know about knit wear and how much they are satisfied with that 2) what the wearers think the problems of knit wear are 3) how knitted wear industry can satisfy consumers's needs and take into account consumer feedback in product development The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1. The wearers had no knowledge about materials, sewing methods, patterns, knitting methods, and gage. 2 The wearers didn't recognize the differences between the products by famous brand and obscure conventional market. For that reason, the high price knit wear wont satisfy wearer. 3. The wearers didn't prefer the revealing their body shapes. 4. Laundering was the big problem which was they chosen the knit wear. They take it for granted that the knit wear needs dry-cleaning or hand-washing. Knit wear industry tries to make it easy laundering by development knit material.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.111-126
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• 2008

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.157-176
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• 1995

The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.978-987
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• 2015

This study investigates the awareness levels of Korean textile companies and develops appropriate response plans for the Korea-US Free Trade Agreement. The study also explores practical and realistic directions that the Korean textile industry must initiate. A qualitative study was conducted on 10 individuals for a more in-depth and demonstrative understanding that provide a better awareness on the responses of the textile industry towards the Korea-US FTA. The results of this study are as follows. First, the effect of the Korea-US FTA on the textile industry was insignificant. Second, industry members determined that fabric sectors and specialized fabrics (such as industrial materials and finished clothing products) could realize benefits through the Korea-US FTA. Third, industry members emphasize that the current focus is on FTAs by countries that have solidified their positions as manufacturing and sewing bases for the US and Europe (such as Southeast Asia) and not the Korea-US FTA. Based on results acquired through this study, the response measures to enter the U.S. market are as follows. First, the industry must develop high-performance and high value-adding direct export products suited to the needs of the US market in order to realize the benefits of the Korea-US FTA. Second, the industry and government must cooperate to actively host and participate in overseas trade shows that can actively open sales channels within the US. Third, the self-sustainability of textile companies must be cultivated through continuous and focused government training.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.498-508
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop an aesthetic and functional bicycle wear for new senior women in their 50s and 60s. Based on the results of the survey, we developed bicycle wear that is friendly to bicycling posture and reflects the preference of new senior women. The results are as followed: First, emphasis is placed on the simple and functional design of the experimental wear consisting of jacket and pants. Jacket is different from the color scheme with the armhole princess line in order for the waistline to look slim. Pants are designed to hold the leg muscles tightly in order to help reduce the muscle fatigue on the bicycle ride. Second, cutting lines and coloring materials are used for the wearer to look slim and the safety of the wearer is planned to secure by inserting the reflective material along the cutting lines on the bicycle ride. Third, the pattern of the experimental wear is designed in consideration of the riding motion of the bicycle. Jacket is designed to have back length longer than front length as compared to the bicycle wears available on the market. Sewing lines in the armpit are designed to be eliminated in order to move the arms smoothly on the ride. Pants are designed to minimize the seam line in consideration of the movement of muscles and ligaments and the experimental wear is produced by combining the material with the functions of cool comfort and stretch.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1127-1137
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• 2010

As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.