• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.179-190
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• 1993

In the history of fashion, few designers have interpreted the background of the time more accurately and energetically than did Elsa Schiaparelli. She understood the new role of women and believed clothes should suit one's life style. Schiaparelli begun with sportswear, later included suits and dresses. She produced them of great elegance and extreme chic. Simplicity of line was the key to her distinctive and elegant silhouette. Even her simplest designs had elegance. Her concept of clothes was architectual : the more the plane of the body were respected, the more the garment acquired vitality. Schiaparelli combined her knowledge, timing, and sense of daring in the presentation of her designs, colors, fabrics, and embroideries. For V, the garment was not only the medium for the couturier's craft but also the place for artistic expression. Her self-conscious equation of designer's objectives with that of artist is at the heart of her work. Schiaparelli's work is an expression of desire, not merely of design.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1990

The purpose of this paper was to examine the relationship between Surrealism and Schiaparelli's fashion design in the 1930s. Surrealism, derived from Dadaism, was based on Freud's analysis of dream imagery and human sexual behavior. Its style was characterized by the partial figure and the dislocation of body part, and the placement of the figure and its part in unanticipated settings. The objective of Surrealism was to exploit the unconsciousness and the interpretation of the body became an abiding. Surrealists were interested in the nature of clothing and in the specific characteristic of fashion, so, they moved into the world of fashion; fashion advertising window display and fashion photograph. The fantasy of Surrealism stimulated Schiaparelli to use wit and shock tactics, bold and unusual combination of colors, striking embroideries with crazy themes like circus and astrology. The character of her clothes was boldness and chic. She created humorous trompe-l'oel sweater, leg of mutton sleeve, tweed evening suit, shocking pink, peculiar accessories such as hats and buttons. She collaborated with many artists like Dali, Cocteau and Berard, and drew on all the latest artistic trends into the fashion arena from Cubism and African Art to Surrealism. Her Surrelist dress provided a play of illusions and affected today;s avant-grade style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2005

The aim of this study is to find out the symbol of clothing decorations in Elsa Schiaparalli's design works and there are four major points due to the aim of this study. Firstly, a fantasy is represented through Surrealistic Arts which creates mysterious, secrete, and surprising spirits. In Surrealistic Arts, the fashion of schiaparelli demonstrates a fantasy spirit by using the methods like metaphor, transformation, and re-positioning. Secondly, In Surrealistic paintings, normally double image or different image from symbol immanent were expressed. However, Elsa Schiaparelli used double and multi-image decorations instead that has well-organized formative effect. The mixture of double images can be separated as symbolic mixture, design mixture and expressive mixture. Thirdly, the body parts has represented symbolism and sensuality in Surrealism Arts. Elsa Schiaparelli has demonstrated the expression of modern clothing as passionate, desirable, and powerful. This is the reason why her designs were absolutely different from the previous sihouette-focused clothing. Fourth, there are lots of intentional decoration that are different from actual images, such as transformation, exaggeration, minimization and repettion, as well as, re-location, re-arrangement, line-up arrangement, collage and odd materials.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.155-171
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• 2002

Trompe-1’oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modern fashion pursuing unique individuality. The purpose of this study is to open a new horizon for the development of fashion as a practical art, and to seek the expansion of the creative domain and ultimately to contribute to the creation of original and creative fashion by examining the interrelationship between Trompe-1’oeil, which has long been utilized and positioned as one of the leading fine arts techniques with the advent of surrealism in the beginning of the 20th century and the modern fashion. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe-1’oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe-1’oeil and on analysing the techniques of expression, and then on investigating into Elsa Schiaparelli, pioneer of Trompe-1’oeil technique to identify her influences, and finally on classifying clothes employing Trompe-1’oeil technique by their expression method to examine how Trompe-1’oeil technique has been applied to modern clothes. As for the research method, the researcher has referred to fine arts books, collection of pictorial records and the like to gain conceptual understanding of Trompe-1’oeil and to examine the expression method and the features of Trompe-1’oeil, and collected and referred to fashion books and fashion marazines to understand Elsa Schiaparelli and the expression tendencies of Tromprf-1’oeil in modern fashions. Particularly, the researcher has attempted to search the correlation between modern fashion and Trompe-1’oeil technique. As a result of this research, the researcher has managed to classify Trompe-1’oeil technique expressed in modern fashion into ‘harmony’, ‘application of the human body’, ‘front and back’, ‘surface and inside’. ‘completion of the incomplete’ and ‘detail.’ The researcher has also noted that Elsa Schiaparelli, a surrealist first applied Trompe-1’oeil technique to clothes and confirmed that quite a few avant-garde clothes designers following Elia Schiaparelli, by using Trompe-1’oeil technique in clothes, recently recreate fresh feelings.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.26-37
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• 2007

Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.352-367
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• 2007

Viktor and Rolf, despite their short career in the field, has been continuously giving a fresh impact on fashion design by grafting a surrealistic approach to their design works. As a basis of this study, we review the features of surrealistic drawing and the surrealistic features expressed in surrealistic clothes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the surrealistic features detected in the clothes designed by Viktor and Rolf on the basis of the above standard and review and predict the future trend in fashion. As for the research method, we review the previous researches and analyze the drawing works by some representative surrealistic artists, in particular, Schiaparelli's clothes in the 1930s, the clothes of surrealistic trend since 2000, and Viktor & Rolf's clothes. The result of the analysis is as follows. The surrealistic features of Viktor & Rolf clothes can be found in the movement of natural objects, the movement of everyday materials, the movement of clothing items, and visual illusion on clothes. As a whole, the surrealistic features clearly stood out in their clothes. High technology will rapidly change the modern society and we humans are likely to resort to something fresh or different as our emotion and feelings are getting tired and weary. Something that stimulates our feeling and emotion hidden behind our reason or logic will be reflected in design far more than something complex and functional. For this reason, as it reveals human imagination inherently, surrealism is expected to establish itself as a mega trend in the future.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.315-328
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze on the aesthetic collaboration appeared on the modernism arts and Haute Couture designers in the 20th century as the necessity of analyzing on the pure meaning of collaboration which is a talking point associated with culture of the 21st century. The study was performed by means of documentary method. The results are as follows; First, it was analyzed that the collaboration in the pure meaning of the first half of the 20th century had partial common points which was stated as Art Inspiration in the arts collaboration out of the 21st century collaboration. Secondly, the Haute Couture designers(Paul Poiret, Gabriell Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli) have common point that they involved into the artworking through active exchange with many artists from diversified fields in the 20th century. Especially, the characteristics of the collaboration in the forms, materials and color of their works were appeared visually. When the collaboration in the first half of 20th century was regarded entirely as mental matter of manifestation of pure aesthetics, in can be said that the big difference was mostly the maximization of mutual interest between collaborator and collaboratee in the 21st century collaboration.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.101-122
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to define the fundamentals of one symbolic concept, so calles vestment-sign, based on the logical relationship of sign system about the trichotomy by charles S. Peice's sign concept for the communication system of meaning in the non-linguistic image domain. To prove the argument of vestment-sign, I selected 3 type of vestment language by styliste, Elsa Schiaparel-li. The third image vestmental chosen here, titled“Larme-Illusion(1938)”,printed by Salvad-or Dali will produce one symbolic proposition as a logical result which is generated and developed through the interpretation of other images. First of all the text, which is manifested by Elsa Schiaparelli's first image vestmental, tit-led“Notation Musical(1937)”and is symbolized as one category in the representation of the form, is regarded symbolic and metaphorical from a standpoint that the title and the meaning is connected to the form. The second image vestment, titled“Ruches Noirs(1938)”represents externally splendid feminity man-ifested by the symbolic and metaphorical expression. And the purity of sensitivity aiming to humanity in the detail of the poetic feeling of naturalism makes us imagine the battle fild of furious sensitivity. Like as the result of the battle, the third image stimulated our eyesight with the“absence”of dressing function. The proposition of the text,《Death》which the third image delivers, constructs sign system to bring up a meaning with the disappearance of physical“signifier”. This establishment of the symbolic concept presents the etymological authority of symbol generation called“Design”.