• Title/Summary/Keyword: rip current

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Boussinesq Modeling of a Rip Current at Haeundae Beach (Boussinesq 방정식 모형을 이용한 해운대 이안류 수치모의)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Park, Won-Kyung;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.276-284
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    • 2011
  • The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

A LSPIV Measurement of the Unsteady Rip Current at Successive Ends of Breaking Wave Crests (연속된 쇄파 파봉선 끝단의 비정상 이안류 LSPIV 계측연구)

  • Choi, Junwoo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.411-419
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    • 2020
  • The experiment of unsteady rip current generated at the successive ends of breaking wave crests of honeycomb pattern waves was conducted in a laboratory wave basin, and its time-varying evolution was observed by using ortho-rectified images. The present experiment utilized the generation of a quasi nodal line of the honeycomb-pattern waves formed by out-of-phase motion of two piston-type wavemakers arranged in the transverse direction, instead of the original honeycomb pattern waves which are generated when two wave trains propagate with slightly different wave directions. The velocities of rip current were measured by using the LSPIV (Large-Scale Particle Image Velocimetry) technique. As a result, the unsteady rip current was generated between successive ends of wave crests, and evolved with its shear fluctuations in this experiment. Also, the time series of LSPIV velocity of the unsteady rip current showd its short component due to waves and its long component due to wave-induced currents.

Laboratory experiment of evolution of rip current according to the duration of successive ends of breaking wave crests (연속 쇄파선 끝단 지속시간에 따른 이안류 발달 수리실험 연구)

  • Choi, Junwoo
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.54 no.1
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    • pp.39-48
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    • 2021
  • The experiment of rip current at successive ends of breaking wave crests was conducted in a laboratory wave basin, and its time-varying evolution according to incident wave durations was observed by using ortho-rectified images. The experiment utilized the generation of a quasi nodal line of the honeycomb-pattern waves (i.e., intersecting wave trains) formed by out-of-phase motion of two piston-type wave makers arranged in the transverse direction, instead of the original honeycomb pattern waves which are generated when two wave trains propagate with slightly different wave directions. The particle moving distance and velocity caused by the rip current were measured by using the particle tracking technique. As a result, the rip current was survived for a while even without incident waves after its generation due to several successive ends of wave crests, and it moved the particles further out to sea.

Investigation of Characteristics of Rip Current at Haeundae Beach based on Observation Analysis and Numerical Experiments (관측자료 분석과 수치모의에 의한 해운대 이안류 발생 특성 연구)

  • Yoon, Sung Bum;Kwon, Seok Jae;Bae, Jae Soek;Choi, Junwoo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.32 no.4B
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    • pp.243-251
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    • 2012
  • To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

Connections Between Various Trigger Factors and the RIP1/RIP3 Signaling Pathway Involved in Necroptosis

  • Zhang, Yuan-Yuan;Liu, Hao
    • Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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    • v.14 no.12
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    • pp.7069-7074
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    • 2013
  • Programmed cell death is a basic cellular process that is critical to maintaining tissue homeostasis. In contrast to apoptosis, necrosis was previously regarded as an unregulated and uncontrollable process. However, as research has progressed, necrosis, also known as necroptosis or programmed necrosis, is drawing increasing attention, not least becasu of its possible impications for cancer research. Necroptosis exhibits a unique signaling pathway that requires the involvement of receptor interaction protein kinases 1 and 3 (RIP1 and RIP3), mixed lineage kinase domain-like (MLKL), and phosphoglycerate mutase 5 (PGAM5) and can be specifically inhibited by necrostatins. Not only does necroptosis serve as a backup cell death program when apoptosis is inhibited, but it is now recognized to play a pivotal role in regulating various physiological processes and the pathogenesis of a variety of human diseases such as ischemic brain injury, immune system disorders and cancer. The control of necroptosis by various defined trigger factors and signaling pathways now offers the opportunity to target this cellular process for therapeutic purposes. The purpose of this paper is to review current findings concerning the connections between various trigger factors and the RIP1/RIP3 signaling pathway as it relates to necroptosis.

Automatic Detection and Analysis of Rip Currents at Haeundae Beach using X-band Marine Radar (항해용 X-band 레이다를 이용한 해운대해수욕장 이안류 자동탐지 및 특성 분석)

  • Oh, Chanyeong;Ahn, Kyungmo;Cheon, Se-Hyeon
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.485-492
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    • 2019
  • The observation system has been developed to investigate the rip currents at Haeundae beach using X-band marine radar. X-band radar system can observe shape, size, and velocity of rip currents, which is difficult to obtain through field observation by conventional device. Algorithms which automatically detect locations, shapes, and magnitudes of rip currents were developed using time averaged X-band radar sea clutter images. X-band sea clutter images are transformed through 3D FFT into 2D wave number spectrum and frequency spectrum. Rip current velocities were estimated using differences in wave-number spectra and wave frequency spectra due to Doppler shift. The algorithm was verified by drift experiments. At Haeundae beach, the radar system exactly located the rip currents and found to be sustained for 1-2 days at fixed locations.

Rip Currents Generation and Longshore Currents behind Bars (이안류 생성 원인 및 연안사주 지형에서의 연안류 생성)

  • Oh, Tae-Myoung;Robert G. Dean
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.91-107
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    • 1995
  • In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

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Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions (위상을 포함한 다방향 불규칙파 조건에서의 이안류 수치모의)

  • Choi, Junwoo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.27 no.4
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    • pp.238-245
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    • 2015
  • Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

A numerical study on rip currents at the Haeundae coast changed after the beach nourishment (양빈 후 지형변화에 따른 해운대 이안류 수치모의)

  • Choi, Junwoo
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.55 no.9
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    • pp.669-678
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    • 2022
  • The Haeundae beach and coast suffered synthetical dramatic changes especially in the nearshore topography by the beach nourishment project (i.e., 2013-2015). A previous study showed the rip current characteristics were changed according to the topographical change in terms of their magnitudes and likelihoods through numerical simulations using the FUNWAVE model. The magnitude and likelihood of rip currents decreased because the surfzone width decreased just after the beach nourishment. In this study, however, numerical simulations of the Haeundae rip currents were performed by using the 2017- and 2020-surveyed topographies changed for several years after the beach nourishment. From the simulation results using the topographies surveyed before and after the beach nourishment, it was found that the magnitude and likelihood of rip currents increased due to its increasing surfzone width in 2017 and 2020 and they might be increasing larger than those before the beach nourishment.