• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The modern society which is going through the big turbulence of civilization experiences the lost of humanity and the phenomenon that the standard of our thoughts, like those for good and evil, truth and false is not clear anymore as the technology is being improved. This makes us miss the past when everything is simple and the standards are very clear and being attracted by the metaphorical culture symbolizing something from the past, like memories of youth, fantasies, fairy tales or myths and we are now having a great interest in the joy of life and the affluent life. Influenced by this kind of tendency in modern society, the minimalism, which had the great influence in the nineties, went out of fashion and at last the romantic susceptibility seems to be the trend forming the major mood of the late 20th century - the early 21st century. This study focus is: (1) the theoretical aspects of romantic images such as the concept, the historical tendency and the character are considered. (2) the variety and multiplicity of the romantic images is discussed after the romantic image is classified into four types of retro character, natural character, ethnic character, erotic character according to major trends in our modern. The purpose of this study is to understand the romantic images in modern fashion, by analyzing the fashion trends together with the various features of romantic images.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.95-103
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• 2000

In order to satisfy customers' desire that is becoming more diverse, and to create the unique character of a product in the fast changing social structure and living environment, today's designers have to make efforts to provide new ideas continuously. In the twentieth century, the development of design in various aspects could be possible through an epoch-making progress of technology and industrialization, and thus the meaning and style of design has changed differently according to the current of the times. The retro design, which borrows the designs and styles which were popular in the past and recreates the design of modern meaning and concept, is widely applied now and in the spotlight as a latest design trend. This phenomenon of revival style appears as an image that makes us recollect the past in various fields while being recognized as an another value of new sense. Considered from the history of style changes for the past 100 years, the automobile design, the most representative in product design fields, has gradually changed in its types according to continuous historical, social, and cultural changes and technological progress, while a variety of designs have been continuously presented. The recent current of automobile styles, according to the rapid progress of advanced scientific technology, shows the fast and various changes and the retro style is becoming a new trend arousing people's interests and reintroducing the past designs. The revival trend in automobile designs is expected to stimulate human sensitivity and restore humanity on a different level before the trend, and also expected to be recreated as a new design trend in modern sense, connecting us with the past culture and expanding the realms of future designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-837
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• 2007

To analyze the design of Christian Dior, 216 pieces of Dior's works were collected and studied from the COLLECTION(Seoul: Dong Ah TV) from 2003 to 2005. The result is as follows. In recent three year period, Christian Dior maintained the feminine image and implemented different additions such as sexy, ethnic, avant-garde and casual image in every season. Also, to reflect a new trend or fashion sense, images of ethnic, retro, hippie or vintage were applied. In using color, different main color(YR, R, Y, BG, RP, B) were chosen every season to pursue variations. For the pattern usage, feminine beauty was presented by numerous applications of flowered pattern. Also the practice of pattern and hue in different rations in every season pursued variations in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.128-142
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• 2014

In the new media age, the importance of personal style is highlighted, as the fashion recipients independently create their own images by transforming and recombining the fashion information gathered from the fashion blogs - the most representative form of social networks. The study aims to identify the types and styles of imaginary ego-images represented on the personal fashion blogs as a new space of self-expression, based on Lacan's gaze; the imaginary of the unconscious world and the ego-concept. According to literature search, the imaginary ego-image is classified as narcissism, regression, identification, and virtuality. In the case study, Narcissism is represented mostly as bloggers' satisfaction and beliefs about their fashion styles. The degeneration represents childhood images including a mother, as well as retro and vintage images that recreate the fashions of bygone eras - such as medieval, $19^{th}$ or 20th century fashion. Identification is the connection with the various areas of culture and art, especially movies and music. Virtuality represents hypothetical situations of mythical, fairy tale-like, surreal, or dreamlike atmospheres and hypothetical bodies that appear removed, disassembled, or crooked. The imaginary ego-images emerged on the personal fashion blogs are also classified into specific style depending on the attributes of the ego images-such as kidult style, retro style, ethnic style, and surreal style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.427-445
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• 1996

According as the fashion at the latter half part of the 20th century is diversified and made into high-class gradually, it is demanding the individuality of each one. Especially, since the beginning of 1980s, fashion came to represent the restoration mood in a modern style because of the popularization of post-modernism. And with this, it came to result in the reappearance of minimalism which was one of anti-culture in 1960s. In this study, this researcher grasped the appearance background, concept and structural concept of minimalism, and tried to study the influence that he minimalism had on fashion in the flow of fashion over the first half period of the 20th century. Minimalism is the fine art trend of American characteristic which quicked by the meeting of European culture and American culture, according as the new avant-grade art of Europe moved to America after World War II Minimalism which appeared, refusing the mechanisation, industrialization and mass production of America and the falsehood of consciousness and sensitivity under existing system remained obscure by the pop art which is the commercial fine art of same period, but it came to expand the domain of work possibility of modern fine art, and it became the basis of appearance of post-modernism. Minimalism has 4 kinds of structural features which are nonside nature, repetitiousness and environment nature with 3 dimensional feature which is issue nature. Minimalism is appearing in the exfcellent and future-oriented fashon of Andre Kureju t the time of 1960 well. Then science revolution and minimalism aroused the mini-revolution, and they made the compact radio in electric home appliances and the miniskirt in fashion appear. The features of minimal fashion as Retro '60' which appeared in the decedent mood with the 21st century just before on are as follows: First, the are the pursuit of concise plastic line. Second, it is the use of high tech material Third, the miniaturization in size amy be enumerated. Minimal fashion will appear s the positive confrontation from of mankind as the optimistic viewpoint about feature in the situation hat environment was destroyed and the resources were exhausted.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.