• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.1-12
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• 2003

In this study I surveyed the dress and the color symbolism of Scarlett and Melanie in the movie "Gone with the Wind" based on the novel by Margaret Mitchell. In investigating the dress and the color symbolism, I analyzed Scarlett and Melanie's image as described in the novel, and examined how the symbolic imagery is represented through coloration based on the DVD reproduction of the movie "Gone with the Wind" originally produced in 1939. In her novel, the author Margaret Mitchell introduced two women, Scarlett and Melanie, whose respective image sharply contrasts with each other. To express Scarlett's young, vigorous, lusty, and vivacious image, she uses green to depict the character, clothing, and background on the whole. Black, which mainly expresses the death image of the mourning dress. Red symbolizes her fast and lavish image. On the other hand, gray is used to describe Melanie's sedate, shyness, and modest image while alluding to her gloomy atmosphere. Brown symbolizes her sedate and plain image in the novel. In the movie, green symbolizes Scarlett's overwhelming image of youth and liveliness as also depicted in the novel. Melanie, however, seems to appear consistently in gray-blue or purple dresses to reflect her image of modesty, sedation and dignity. Melanie's blue image contrasts with Scarlett's blue image in that the latter is used to hint at the omen to a tragedy to come. Red is used to express Scarlett's passionate and fast image. Black symbolizes death or mourning in the movie.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Fashion icons of 21st century are not only the fashion leaders that show fashion trend but also the typical fashion signs or symbols that show visually changes in sensibility trends. The purpose of this study was to analyze the framework of 21st century fashion by the public to recognize through these changes. In this study, the background of the occurrence of various 21st century fashion icons and their characteristics were investigated and the changes of revealed features and symbolic meanings were examined compared with them of 20th century. The 24 celebrities which have been called as the bests of fashion icons since year 2000 were selected by searching the most popular search engines such as daum, yahoo and google, and 13 of them were picked as the highest in preference and awareness by surveying 50 students majoring in fashion. And then their fashion styles, backgrounds, and influence on the public fashion were studied. As a result, the 21st century fashion icons reflecting the cultural characteristics such as convergence and exaggeration and the sensitivities of fusion, collaboration, hybrid sensibility in art were powerful enough to create innovative styles destroying the era and the standard. Their styles have constantly created new looks. The exposed new individual sensitivities on media-fusion of two or more sensibility and coordination techniques without being tied to the existing anchorage system-were as influential as high fashion and leaded the imitation and reproduction by dazzling the public. As the media become more powerful, the influence of fashion icons interacted more closely with the public and has been evolved through the sensitivity of the reversal, cultural, economic, visual, or temporal fusions. To sum up, it is shown that the outstanding fashion styles suggested by the leading fashion designers have approach to the public more closely by the fashion icons.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.760-769
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• 2007

Cultural commodity is a tourism souvenir for tourists with a high added value in terms of economy. When it excellently represents the region and is based upon its tradition, the positive images of the place can be originated. In this way, the formation of benevolent images has economically considerable effects that can promote the competitive power of the area. The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern design of cultural commodity related to Hampyeong Butterfly Festival. The software to be used is Adobe illustrator CS2, which is a Vector Graphic software, and by utilizing the program, the pattern for the cultural goods will be produced. The forms of the pattern are All over Pattern, which is one of the arrangement methods used the most in a necktie field, and Stripe Pattern. After designing with those two patterns, the design is applied on neckties. Like this, by designing through the Vector Graphic software which we can easily get an access to, the concept of design is visualized; therefore, we can prevent the commodity development that can be conducted out of the concept. By making it possible to visualize the examination by various forms or color mixture, the time is shortened, and throughout reproduction of the object, adjustment of the size, colorway, and reusing or remanufacturing the image, we can check the result of design before hand to reduce the time and expenses required.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.89-95
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• 2002

Object of this study presents marketing of new market segmentation as what I classify a social stratum, and analyze sense of value about each social class clothes and a taste, but is. The study way used a questionnaire as an investigation study way, and I did execution from September to October in 1999, and the investigation object picked up an any table with the woman university student who lived in Seoul and did investigation, and analysis targeted total 550 people. I used a measurement item of economic capital and cultural capital as a classification item of a social stratum and selected a dwelling, a kind of property, an annual salary of parents as an index of economic capital. Presentation held an occupation of parents, scholarship, culture activity as an index of cultural capital. It is social stratum structure an occupation arranges in 12 job categories by, for your reference, I do a social orbit of the P. Bourdieu which is a French sociologist and an index of inheritance cultural capital, and having set up eight phases of evaluation, and to do a Y, Cultural Capital with X with economic capital. Sense of value about clothes and attitude selected social value, aesthetic appreciation enemy value, authority a few value in sense of value of the 6 type that E. Spranger(1922) presented, and a proposal did type in 3 about clothes. The measurement way used a 11 question item and measured I with five phases of Likert-type criteria and executed factors analysis by main ingredient analysis and varimax revolution law. I named a more than inherent 1 with the liver which was social man, aesthetic appreciation enemy man, an authority enemy with a basis. The results are as follows : People of the group which they belong to the same social class, and there is have a similar taste and select a similar product, and scholarship and an occupation of parents please lay a taste of children and sense of value, a hierarchical difference of attitude too and do it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.131-152
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.111-130
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.