• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.32-45
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.12-29
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• 2004

This paper tried to identify recognition and historical background about western table decoration. For the study, the documentary study would be accomplished. the range of time was during Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neo-classic period, and the range of space was among Italy, France, and England. Styles for example architectures, interior designs, arts, and sculptures represented their own period, and had great influences on eating habits, and the eating habits would be influent on kitchen utensils. As a results of the fact, the structural elements and decoration of table would be showed different characteristics according to periods of time. Today's food cultural trends consisted of consumption, taste, sense, and consumers' demands become diversified, so the paper would be an important data to understand new designs proper for our own modem sense that cope with modem feeling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.3 s.35
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• pp.196-207
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• 1990

The western heraldry influenced by the style of periodic art, the lion and the eagle charges were expressed simply and laconically in Romanesque period, laconically but forcibly in Gothic period, and elegantly and elaborately in the period of the Renaissance. The symbolical character of each charge expressed in the heraldry in the process of the changes of the times can be summarized as follows: 1) The ferocious beast like the eagle or the lion in the heraldry is symbolic of a majestic appearance of sovereign's. 2) The legendary or mythical monster in the heraldry is the symbol of holding sacred the heraldry owner endowed superhuman ability from him, or the symbol of coercion or menace to the other party on the appearance of being sized with fear. 3) The domestic animals or the poultry in the heraldry are chiefly symbolic of intrepidity, bravery, sacrifice, or faithfulness, which can be supposed a subject's loyalty to his sovereign. 4) The lamb or the cross in the heraldry is the charge concerned with Christ who brought a fundamantal thought in the middles ages. So they can be said the symbol of Christianity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to understand the military look in contemporary fashion by analyzing it based on the theory of Baudrillard, who offered explanations about images with the phenomenon of simulation, and provide basic data for the use of images in fashion by presenting new perspectives of images in fashion. The period from ancient times to the Renaissance does not belong to any of the three orders in Baudrillard's simulacra. In other words, there was no simulacrum created in the period according to his image changes. In the military look, however, the simulation phenomenon is different from his argument. To be specific, there is a "hyperreal" one as well as the simulacrum of "generalized image" as the simulacrum of a "transmuted image." It is because fashion exists only when it is worn widely by the imitations of others and in an inseparable relationship with imitation. In fashion, simulacra can always be found, which is one of the special qualities of fashion.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.257-287
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• 1996

The late period of Choson was the renaissance of the modern literature and art of the 'common-people'. Appearance of the common-people class following the emergence of such literature and art highlighted the common costume culture and evoked a fashion. The common trend of fashion of all classes at that time included a exaggerated hair style, a jacket short and tight enough to expose the breasts, a belt looking like a sensual silhouette of a woman body were expressed. Appreciating the human body could be regarded as some social advances at that age, when all the woman's clothing behaviors were restricted and controlled by the Confucian rules. Although eroticism itself is quite dependent on the basic instinct of a human being, this way of expressing eroticism had a social significance, in that women tried to be freed from the long-lasting social bondage. Therefore, the erotic mode during the late half of Choson reflected the society as well the women's repression. In addition, was the disclosure of humanity shadowed by the crusts of the hypocritical and superficial Confucian morality. It implied advances and modernity of the literature and art of the common-people at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.84-95
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• 2010

This study is an introductory survey of the labyrinth/maze in gardens. The term 'garden labyrinth' may seem an oxymoron given that the garden represents the terrestrial paradise, while the labyrinth is a symbol of the most chaotic face of the world. In etymological and ontological terms, however, gardens are enclosed places and this characteristic corresponds to the character of the labyrinth, which is the one of the oldest signs in human civilization, symbolizing the paths of human life filled with uncertainty and complexity. The garden labyrinth has developed in various forms and shapes since the Renaissance period. Literature and paintings contributed to the dissemination of the concepts of the garden labyrinth, especially in the form of the 'garden of love'. While the labyrinths in ancient and medieval times focused on plane shapes and symbolic and/or spiritual meanings, later garden labyrinths emphasized the three dimensional form and synesthetic pleasures. New patterns, which deviated from the classical unicursal form, emerged in the Petit Parc at Versailles in the 17th century. The garden labyrinth/maze was easy to adopt in formal gardens because of its geometric form, but for that reason, it went on to decline during the fad of picturesque garden. In this study, a brief history of labyrinths, the patterns, forms, and arrangement of the garden labyrinths in the formal gardens of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and its meanings are reviewed.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.1-23
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• 2022

The record is both an palmistry and a fingerprint for human life and world of knowledge. Books, which are synonymous with records, are a channel through which history is traced and a window to savor. And the most primitive form of the book is the classics of ancient Greece and Rome, and the best part is the manuscript. It refers to the original recorded on papyrus, parchment, paper, etc. and the translated and translated copies of them. If we reflect on the long history of knowledge and culture, the classic manuscripts have continued to scatter and collect like a river flowing through time and space due to not only natural disasters, but also artificial cultural vandalism and the bibliocaust. Therefore, this study traced and linked the wandering and library return of classic manuscripts from ancient Greece to the medieval Renaissance period. As a result, dynasties and empires, monarchs and prime ministers, generals and conquerors, nobles and wealthy, clergy and scholars concentrated on collecting and translating classical manuscripts. If the ancient Greek and Roman scholars did not record knowledge and wisdom in papyrus and parchment, the medieval Byzantine and Islamic Empires did not collect, translate and reproduce classics, the book hunters didn't keep track of the classics, the Renaissance humanists did not restore and reinterpret the classics through intellectual exodus, and the historical library did not collect and preserve the classics and their translations, modern people would not have access to classical knowledge. Nevertheless, the tracing of classical manuscripts is an aporia in which many difficulties and contradictions overlap in the tracing of classic manuscripts due to historical flow, geographical wandering, and linguistic transformation. When a new manuscript is discovered and interpreted, correction and supplementation are inevitable, so the pursuit of the wandering and return of the classic manuscripts through follow-up research must be continued.