• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.20
• /
• pp.125-135
• /
• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.133-140
• /
• 2006

In order to investigate the sensation of the fabric sound simulating the real wear-condition, the fabric sound simulator using reciprocating friction was developed. Fabric sounds from 5 specimen were generated by the fabric sound simulator and recorded using high performance microphone. Physical sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (${\Delta}L$), and frequency differences (${\Delta}f$) were calculated. For psychological evaluation, seven adjectives for sound (softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness) were used as the semantic differential scale. Fabric sounds by reciprocating friction of nylon taffeta and polyester leno had the highest value of LPT and evaluated as loud, sharp, rough, and unpleasant while polyester ultra suede and silk crepe de chine haying the lower LPT and ${\Delta}f$ were perceived as soft and quite. Comparing with fabric sound by one-way friction, fabric sound by reciprocation friction was perceived as more sharp, loud, and rough. LPT was also the most important factor affecting the sensation of the fabric sound by reciprocating friction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.121-136
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.16 no.11
• /
• pp.7485-7493
• /
• 2015

With the popularity of Korean Wave, making cultural goods specific for Hallyu tourists is getting more important. However, there are mainly daily life goods using celebrity character-based ones. Remarkably, there are only a few cultural goods especially in practicality-based clothing category. In particular, few cultural goods related to children's wear have been developed. Therefore, if children's wear is developed as Korean Wave cultural goods considering Chinese consumers' pattern and Korean Wave cultural goods, it will be helpful for revitalizing the Korean Wave and Korea's fashion market. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to develop children's wear design as Korean Wave cultural goods, thereby presenting empirical research results and fulfilling its following objectives: First, it is to identify the concept of Korean Wave cultural goods, to analyze the current status to finally establish data to develop Korean Wave cultural goods needed at this time. Second, it is to make real-life size works through development of designs to provide the empirical data for Korean Wave cultural goods market. For the research method and contents the review of the previous research, in-depth interview for qualitative research, and empirical research using market research and development of work were performed. Through the final research outcomes, Korean Wave cultural goods, the children's wear that can meet the consumer's needs were presented as empirical data. The study can be used as basic data for domestic fashion market and cultural product market and it is meaningful as a reference for the analysis on the Chinese consumers' needs.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 2019

Sleep apnea, a medical condition associated with a variety of complications, is generally monitored by standard sleep polysomnography, which is expensive and uncomfortable. To overcome these limitations, this study proposes an unconstrained wearable monitoring system with stretch-fiber sensors that integrate with the wearer's clothing. The system allows patients to undergo examinations in a familiar environment while minimizing the occurrence of skin allergies caused by adhesive tools. As smart clothing for adult males with sleep apnea, long-sleeved T-shirts embedding fibrous sensors were developed, enabling real-time monitoring of the patients' breathing rate, oxygen saturation, and airflow as sleep apnea diagnostic indicators. The gauge factor was measured as 20.3 in sample 4. The maximum breathing intake, measured during three large breaths, was 2048 ml. the oxygen saturation was measured before and during breath-holding. The oxygen saturation change was 69.45%, showing a minimum measurable oxygen saturation of 70%. After washing the garment, the gauge factor reduced only to 18.0, confirming the durability of the proposed system. The wearable sleep apnea monitoring smart clothes are readily available in the home and can measure three indicators of sleep apnea: respiration rate, breathing flow and oxygen saturation.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.69-78
• /
• 2021

The development of smart healthcare wearables for health is accelerating. Among them, many wearable products using EMS electrical stimulation, which is one of the active research fields, have been released. However, the EMS wearable, which has been studied or released, is released in a comprehensive full-body suit that does not focus on muscle segmentation or a belt that covers the entire abdomen. Therefore, this study intends to use two breathing methods by applying an EMS pattern that subdivides specific muscles and attach a stretch sensor that can measure breathing to the abdominal pressure belt. The measurement method was conducted by inhaling and exhaling, and the subjects were 10 men in their 20s with healthy bodies. As a result of this study, the sensor's sensitivity was 5 and 3 mm, and the basic sensor in both thoracic and abdominal breathings and the EMS abdominal pressure belt showed improved respiration activation after applying electrical stimulation before and after application. It is concluded that, because of the two patterns produced based on the physical function, the difference in respiration activation effect and sensitivity between sensors could be confirmed with three sensors rather than not applying electrical stimulation suitable for the respiration method. Based on the results of this study, a follow-up study aims to develop breathing smart clothing that can be monitored in real time in clothing-type wearable products that incorporate EMS patterns and stretch sensors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.7 s.98
• /
• pp.62-75
• /
• 2005

This study is focused on main performers' stage costumes in the 'Swan Lake', a masterpiece of classical ballet, which Is newly represented by Matthew Bourne, a choreographer. The objectives of the study is to help understand a trend of costume in modern public performance and art. First, this paper is attempted to describe the concept and the elements of ballet costume, secondly, to consider the performance generally, and finally to analyze main performers stage costumes. This study was performed by two processes; The first was to visit theaters to view the performances in person: the classical ballet by the Bolshoi Theater Ballet, the performance by Korea national ballet academy and the Matthew Bonne's modernly redefined ballet. The second was to review the regarding literatures and DVD. There are two apparent characteristics of main performers' stage costumes in modern-style ballet compared with classic-style ballet. First, there is an approach to gender identity; the character of swan with the classic tutu that has been the culmination of femininity in the classic-style ballet, used to be represented in an established idea on ballet costume, is now substituted by a creative idea, male ballerina and trouser-style ballet costume. Second, there is an approach to breaking the convention on the purpose of emphasizing popularity arousing real sympathy and art value. Also, modern-style ballet introduces bare body and ffot rather than tutu and toe-shoes, and adapts items from casual outfit fitted in earh performer's character with a present-day life.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
• /
• v.16 no.8
• /
• pp.962-971
• /
• 2013

In this paper, we propose a method to infer the user's behavior and situation through collected data from multi-sensor equipped with a smart clothing and it was implemented as a smart-phone App. This smart-clothes is able to monitor wearer users' health condition and activity levels through the gyro, temp and acceleration sensor. Sensed vital signs are transmitted to a bluetooth-enabled smart-phone in the smart-clothes. Thus, users are able to have real time information about their user condition, including activities level on the smart-application. User context reasoning and behavior determine is very difficult using multi-sensor depending on the measured value of the sensor varies from environmental noise. So, the reasoning and the digital filter algorithms to determine user behavior reducing noise and are required. In this paper, we used Multi-black Filter and SVM processing behavior for 3-axis value as a representative value of one.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.581-594
• /
• 2015

The emergence of pop art in the 1960s exerted a profound impact on integrating art into the real lives of the general public, which continues in the current area of culture of post-industrial society. Thus, this study aims to attempt the popularization and modernization of Korean images by applying the concept of pop art to the development of a national symbolic image. This study utilized Mugunghwa, Taegeukgi, and the Great Seal, which are national symbolic images that establish the identity of Korea through differentiation, universality, and visual formativeness. It then proceeded with the development of neo-pop art motives and patterns using national symbolic images from the standpoint of symbolism, mix-match, and repetitiveness from among the characteristics of neo-pop art. This study carried out pattern design by departmentalizing each characteristic according to the standpoint of neo-pop art through scribbles composed of the following: Signs, pictograms, and childlike characters; drawing simplification for symbolism; a mix of the East and the West; a mix of subfashion and subculture for mix-match; the repetition of lines, characters, and icons; and the exaggeration and grotesqueness of characters and icons for repetitiveness. This study is expected to serve as momentum for raising the cultural value of Korea and for the development of a pattern design capable of achieving worldwide competitiveness through the combination of the permanence and continuity of national symbols with the popular universality of pop art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.115-132
• /
• 2017

This study recognizes the importance of the social network platform as a new fashion media, and analyzes the significance of various digital fashion images, based on the 'Aura' theory of Walter Benjamin. The concept of "Disappearance of Artistic Aura" can be summarized into three discussions: 1) the change in the way of artistic perception, which is changes in value from worship to exhibition. 2) the change in the way of artistic acceptance, from personal to mass. 3) the emergence of new artistic concepts such as camera and film. By reviewing characteristics of the $21^{st}$ digital replication era, the study tried to discover and evaluate the expanded significance of the 'Aura' represented on digital fashion images, which are infinitely generated, modified, reproduced, transmitted, and shared in social network environments. The 'Burberry Instagram' was chosen as the subject of the study. The study reviewed around 2,500 images, which were uploaded from February 2011 to July 2016, and selected 200 images deemed the most representative of Burberry, and categorized and analyzed by the extended concept of 'Aura'. The study results as follows: First, the 'Aura' in digital fashion image appearing on social network platforms signifies the expansion of product value in fashion, and it also represents inherited traditions and modernization of images. Second, it also signifies the democratization and globalization of fashion through the open replication and sharing as well as the interaction of criticism and acceptance. Third, it signifies the personalized taste and fashion as everyday lifestyle, through personalized services, securing playful space, and real-time updates.