• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2012

The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must be used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by $20^{\circ}C$ dyeing with the $40^{\circ}C$ dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first 5 hours of sunlight exposure. The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.336-338
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• 2005

This paper investigates the influence of raw material and process parameters in spinning that affect the inter fiber cohesion in yams. An instrument has been developed for measuring the minimum twist of cohesion. With regard to the raw material parameters, the influence of different cotton fiber mixings for a given count of yarn is investigated. Also the effect of spinning to varying counts for a given cotton variety is studied. With regard to the process parameters, studies have been carried out to investigate the influence of noil extraction in comber, number of draw frame passages, draft pressure in ring frame and direction of twist. Cohesion improved with increase in the noil extraction percentage in the comber. Increase in the number of draw frame passages also improved the cohesion. Draft pressure in ring frame improved the fiber cohesion in yarn up to a pressure of $2.1kg/cm^2$. Direction of twist had no effect on the cohesion.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

Melange yams were prepared by varing the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, respectively. The antibacterial activity and deodorization on melange yarns were evaluated for bacteria reduction rate and deodorization rate. The bacterial reduction rate on melange yarns was explored with Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae. The melange yarns on the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Sappan wood and Indigo showed high Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate of 99% and 90%, regardless of Al-mordanting treatment, but those with Gadenia hardly showed bacteria reduction rate. The melange yarn showed high Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate of 99% for Al-mordanting treatment with Sappan wood. The others were poor. The deodorization of 81% and 98∼99% obtained with melange raw sliver and melange sliver dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, but dyeing did not significantly affect deodorization rate.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.648-659
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• 2012

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.201-209
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• 2011

With a new method of applying chitosan and alginate onto cellulose, multi-coated cotton fabrics with chitosan and alginate were prepared and characterized. To coat cotton with chitosan, raw cotton was dipped in chitosan solution, mangled of 1kgf/$cm^2$, neutralized in 2 wt% NaOH soluton, washed, and dried at $60^{\circ}C$ oven. The chitosan-coated fiber was dipped in sodium alginate solution, 1kgf/$cm^2$ mangled, neutralized in 2 wt% $CaCl_2$ solution, washed, and dried at $60^{\circ}C$ oven, resulting in CCAC(coated cotton with chitosan and calcium alginate skin) fiber characteristics. Excellent absorbancy of distilled water and saline solution was observed by the absorption test on cotton fabric treated with CCAC(0.5 wt% calcium alginate) and 0.5 wt% calcium alginate respectively. The SEM photograph confirmed the uniform coating on the cotton fabric surface.

• 대한화학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.38-43
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• 1957

Purified cellulosic materials suitable for the production of cellulose esters can be prepared from waste cotton (carding waste from textile mill). The most desirable conditions in purifying waste cotton were obtained. Waxy materials were removed by boiling in 2-3% soda ash solution for more than 30 minutes in open vessel at atmospheric pressure. As for bleaching, it is desirable to use the bleaching powder solution containing 1%, available chlorine for 60 minutes at 35 deg. C. Purified cellulosic material was acetylated to fibrous cellulose triacetate, which was fractionated in the solution of 70% monochloroacetic acid using water as a precipitant, and the degree of polymerizaion and molecular weight of each fraction were measured viscometrically, thereon, molecular weight distribution curve was drawn. Analyzing the shape of this curve, most of the polymers were concentrated on the part of higher degree of polymerization. Purified waste cotton was also analysed, the result was that this cellulosic material can be used as a raw material for cellulose esters and ethers.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• Journal of Animal Science and Technology
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.123-130
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• 2013

Whole cotton seed (WCS) has become one of the major feed ingredients in TMR for dairy cattle in Korea, and WCS for feed use is mostly imported from abroad. Since this genetically modified oil seed is usually fed to the animal in raw state, its germination ability, if last long, often causes concerns about ecological disturbances. In the process of looking for effective conditions to remove germination ability of WCS this study had the objectives to evaluate the nutritional effects of gamma irradiation at doses of 8, 10 and 12 kGy on changes in nutrient contents, anti-nutritional factors, in vitro digestibility and ruminal degradability. No significant differences were found in proximate analysis of nutrients between raw WCS and gamma irradiated one. Glycine and threonine contents significantly increased when the WCS was exposed to gamma ray as compared to untreated WCS (p<0.05). As for fatty acid composition, no significant differences were observed with the irradiation treatment. Free gossypol in WCS was decreased (p<0.05) by gamma irradiation treatment. Of the 3 different levels of gamma irradiation, a dose of 12 kGy was found to be the most effective in reducing free gossypol concentration. Results obtained from in situ experiment indicated that gamma irradiation at a dose of 10 kGy significantly (p<0.05) lowered rumen degradability of both dry matter and crude protein as compared with raw WCS. However, there were no significant differences in rapidly degradable and potentially degradable fractions of crude protein due to 10 kGy gamma irradiation. Overall, this study show that gamma irradiation at a dose of 10 kGy is the optimum condition for removing germination ability of WCS, and could improve nutritive value for the ruminant with respect to the decrease in both ruminal protein degradability and gossypol content of WCS.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.25-30
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• 2008

In order to examine the availability of a heating process for persimmon dyeing, the cotton fabrics treated with various concentrations of persimmon extracts were heated at various temperatures and times. The raw and fermented persimmon extracts were used for the coloration. For both extracts, the color strength of fabrics was. increased with the increase of coloration temperature, time, and concentration of the extracts. Considering the practical aspects. and color strength, the temperature around $200^{\curc}C$ and the time longer than 60 minutes can be determined as the. optimum coloration conditions of persimmon extracts onto cotton fabrics. However, somewhat loss of strength by the hearing process seems to be inevitable. The color fastness to washing was excellent for both color change and staining showing a rating of 5.