• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.134-147
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.955-967
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• 1995

This study was performed to investigate the physical and chemical properties of the 5 kinds of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and undyed fabrics. The difference between dyed and undyed fabrics was checked experimentally. Obtained results are as follows. 1. Bending length and flex stiffness were increased after dyeing, and tensile strength of waif i3l fabrics except Ramie was also increased. 2. Abrasion resistance was improved in Ramie and Hemp after dyeing but the rest of fabrics were decreased. 3. Crease resistance of dyed fabrics was roughly worse than that of undyed fabrics. 4. Air permeability remarkably increased after dyeing and this fact estabilished that the traditional Gal-01 was cool clothing. 5. Water repellency in Cotton 1 and Polyester rises but the rest of fabrics were not changed. Therefore it is found that this repellency related to the their fabric counts. 6. Blocking effect of UV light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed Cotton 1 and Polyester blocked UV light almost perfectly. 7. The colorfastness to soaping and sunlight was proved to less than 3 grade in all fabrics after dyeing. It indicates that this colorfastness became worse owing to dyeing. 8. The colorfastness to dry cleaning and water was decided to more than 3 grade in all fabrics. 9. The colorfastness of the dyed fabrics to sweat after exposing to man-made acid sweat solution was good so that was decided above 3 grade. However after exposing to man-made alkalic sweat solution it became worse owing to dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.763-770
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• 2002

The objective of the study was to investigate skin temperature responses of Hanbok when it was worn. Two healthy females(average 21 years, 155cm and 60kg were exposed to a climatic chamber(Room Temp. $21{\pm}1^{\circ}C,\;52{\pm}2%R.H.$, 0.15m/s). During the experiment, rectal temperature, skin temperature of 9 areas, clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were measured. Chima and Jogory to be made of silk nobang(SN) or Ramie were worn for summer. Polyester(P) Chima and Jogori(R) could be wort for spring and autumn. For winter, silk Chima, Jogori(S) and Durumagi(D) were commonly worn. Rectal temperature was high in order of naked(N), R, SN, P, S, D. However Mean skin temperature was reversely high in order of D, S, SN, R, P, naked. In naked, skin temperature was high in order of head, trunk upper extremity and lower extremity. But on wearing of Hanbok, it was the highest at the chest except head regardless of kinds of clothing ensembles. Skin temperature of upper arm was secondly highest on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagi ensemble, but skin temperature of buttock was secondly highest on wearing the silk nobang ensemble and the ramie ensemble. Skin temperature on wearing the silk ensemble was generally higher than those on other clothing ensembles. Local and mean skin temperatures on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagj ensemble were generally higher than on other clothing ensembles. Heat resistance of the fabric might have affected on the local skin temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.17
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• pp.65-99
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• 1996

We exanmined the each effect of $NO_2$ and $SO_2$gas, the maincomponets of air pollutants, on the deterioration of 6 organic materials with Gasexposure cabinet. The organic materials were used 2 kind of papers(Korean paper, Oldbook paper) and 4 kind of textiles (Cotton, Silk, Hemp, ramie) in gas exposure experiments. In order to know how to change of physical conditions, the materials were exposed to 2000, 1000 ppm. h of $SO_2$dose, to 100 ppm. h of $NO_2$ dose at 65% RH. The color difference, tensile strength, elongation coeffient, mass reduction and fabric status of each materials were discussed the following below.1. The color difference of cotton and hemp was larger than that of silk and ramie in the presence of $SO_2$ gas. and the color difference of korean paper was less than that of the textile materials in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.2. The tensile strength of cotton fell suddenly at 100ppm.h of $SO_2$ dose and even became 56% of the unexposed cotton.3. The weight of 6 materials began to decrease in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.4. The tensile strength and elongation of the materials tended to decrease at 12.5ppm.h of $NO_2$ especially silk was the strongest tendency to decrease.5. Cotton, hemp and ramie were influenced by $SO_2$ gas more than by $NO_2$, but silk were influenced by $NO_2$ more thang by $SO_2$ at 10ppm.h of each noxious gas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1754-1760
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• 2007

To improve poor dye uptake of safflower yellow colorants, cellulose fibers were pretreated with chitosan. The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeability of safflower yellow colorants to cotton, ramie, and rayon was investigated in terms of dye uptake, color, and colorfastness. Irrespective of fiber types, dye uptake increased continuously with increase in chitosan concentration. Chitosan pretreatment improved dye uptake up to 5.6 times for cotton, 7.2 times for ramie, and 3.7 times for rayon. For cotton and ramie, the shade of dyed fabric changed YR color to Y color with increase in chitosan concentration. Dyed rayon fabrics showed Y color irrespective of chitosan concentration. Shades got darker and deeper with increasing chitosan concentration. Shades of chitosan pretreated fabrics were shifted differently depending on dyeing temperature within same fabrics. In common, the color of all dyed fabrics changed to YR at 50 and $70^{\circ}C$ while Y color at 30 and $90^{\circ}C$. V and C value decreased with increase in dyeing temperature and resulted in darker and duller color, in general. Light fastness was fair while washing fastness was poor. It was confirmed that ultrasonic dyeing method enhanced dye uptake more than 30% for cotton and ramie fabrics compared to the conventional automatic machine dyeing method. However, no difference in dye uptake between two dyeing methods was found for rayon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.