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http://dx.doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2020.44.1.107

A Study on the Historical Research of Indigo Clothing Gifts of Early Joseon -Focusing on the Po and Ieom of King Seongjong's Reign-  

Choi, Jeong (Dept. of Fashion Design & Apparel Industry, Wonkwang University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles / v.44, no.1, 2020 , pp. 107-125 More about this Journal
Abstract
Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.
Keywords
Historical research; King Seongjong; Indigo; Royal clothing gift; Shapes;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 3  (Citation Analysis)
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