• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.916-927
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• 2012

In the $21^{st}$ century, woman leaders are able to influence society through improved social status and economic power. From 1980-1990 there was a rapid global social development of feminism and improved media perceptions. The progression of this process is reflected by female characters in feminism films that included a new dress style. The power suit emerged in the U.S.A of the 1980s, as a dress code that showed the workplace uniform of a professional woman and spread to Korea as an influential style. This study defines the different and similar aspects in the development of women's position and the role involved in a structural background through a comparison of the socio-cultural meaning of the power suit expressed in American and Korean feminism films. For analysis, this study chose American films in the 1980s and Korean films in 1990s that fulfilled elements about feminism films. Subsequently in American feminism films, the power suit expressed an equal authority with men, strategic use of femininity according to task type, and a dissipation of symbolic effects like a rich look. In Korean feminism films, the power suit expressed an end of femininity like female transvestite, independent female images with the masculinization of appearance, and a mix of new and traditional styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.679-685
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.75-88
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• 1995

The objectives of this study were to classify the contents of clothing shopping orientation, to group women into shopper types, and to examine the differences in clothing purchase criteria according to the shopper types. Samples were 335 women(20-49 years of age) in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, X2 test, paired t-test, multiple regression analysis. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Five factors of clothing shopping orientation derived by factor analysis : F.1 'impulsive shopping' ; F.2 'rational shopping' ; F.3 'independent shopping' ; F.4 'economic shopping' ; F.5 'convenient shopping'. Three shopper types were classified by cluster analysis of the 5 factors : T.1 'convenient shopper' ; T.2 'impulsive shopper' ; T.3 'rational shopper'. 2. Significant differences were found among the 3 shopper types in all clothing purchase criteria. Rational shopper perceived all purchase criteria as more important than did the other 2 types. Impulsive shopper perceived 'fashion', 'attractiveness', 'style', and 'bland' as more important than did convenient shopper. 3. Married women and unemployed women were more distributed in rational shopper, while the unmarried and the employed more in impulsive shopper. Impulsive shopper used more credit care, purchased suits and blouses at department store and brand specialty store more than did rational shopper. Rational shopper purchased at discount store and wholesale store more than did impulsive shopper. 4. Women assessed 'color and fabric design' as most important in suit and blouse purchase criteria. 'Care' was perceived more important in blouses than in suits, and the other 9 purchase criteria(fashion, attractiveness, style, color and fabric design, fabric, durability, costruction, comfort, and brand) were perceived more important in suits than in blouses. 5. Rational and economic shopping orientation scores were higher in suit purchase than in blouse, while impulsive, independent, and convenient shopping orientation scores were higher in blouse purchase. 6. Post-purchase suit satisfaction was influenced by rational shopping orientation, educational level, style, income, and comfort. The explanatory power of the 5 variables was 17.2%. Post-purchase blouse satisfaction was influenced by style, care, rational shopping orientation, and independent shopping orientation. The explanatory power of the 4 variables was 10.2%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.701-712
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• 2012

This study examines the various expressions and immanent value of fashion and beauty style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. I analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulation of Strategy, and Hybridization in? Ladygaga's Music Videos. The results are as follows. 'Borrow' presents a kitsch style and playful Pop-art style, transformation of gender from Mini Mouse body suit, telephone headpiece, and can hair. 'Site specificity' presents the temporarity of fashion material through rebirth, aging, natural extinction from the chain over the black jump suit, crime scene tape, and skull-face makeup with masculine style. 'Accumulation of strategy' presents a futuristic chic fashion style from a layered style, retrospective fashion, repetition and duplication in Music Videos. It shows the physical beauty of an Asian warrior style in Poker Face. 'Hybridization' present Cyborg feminism and 'Will of Power' from iPOD LCD glasses and Pyro-Bra. The Pyro-Bra represents how the female body can be used as a weapon in the outfits of Lady Gaga. In addition, Immanent value is as follows. Textual interaction with high art is accomplished through a combination of contemporary social and cultural significance to understand the cultural code and to extend the value. Combined with high culture, popular music genre is accomplished through musical appreciation by a woman in fashion styling and sensual pleasures of the body as a tool to express a sublime advantage. Fashion style is accomplished by overcoming a self-transcendent body image representation. The way in which mutual coupling dismantling, destruction, and uncertainty is to re-launch the static, with a pluralistic context of Textuality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.171-184
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• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.119-130
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of 1980s' oversize fashion. Especially in 1980s, there were some characteristics that the leading style did not exist as the other decades, but instead of that, various styles coexisted and the existing traditional rule of fashion was destroyed. On the basis of such background, the moulding nature resident in oversize fashion is considered and analyzed as follows. Firstly, 1980s is the time of power suit booming and through such clothes, women disclosed their consciousness that they want to be equal with men. Secondly, In contrast to that a shoulder pad was the trademark of 1980s' clothes, the social aspect that Japanese designers' clothes of layered look and them of grunge look coexisted is directly expressed through these oversize clothes. Thirdly, In 1980s of the time that people's interest to health risen, sports wear was developed to be everyday wear and furthermore, it had variously influences on high fashion so that developed to big look. Fourthly, when it comes to 1980s' clothes, the atmosphere of society denying apparent boundary between sex at that time was resident in androgynous look and the folklore image of sexless style by their appearance in oversize fashion. What is this situation that the style of the past time is popular in the 21st century even such intentional spirit of challenge already passed？ Maybe for women, the one way of expressing themselves is through their clothes, and for such reason, it can be considered that the social meaning resident in 1980s' clothes is re-examined in the present age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.708-716
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• 2019

This study explored Jeju natural resources with healing function and tried mixed dyeing of Ecklonia cava and onion shell to improve dyeing. The results showed that silk dyed with a mixture of Ecklonia cava powder and onion shells rather than Jeju's individually dyed silk had better color power to develop fashion products. In addition, all friction lightning bolts, dry cleaning and sweat mining levels were excellent as well as excellent UV protection rates. The three baenaet jeogori worn during a birth anniversary and four rest suits that infants and children can wear comfortably maintained the dyeing and functioning of Ecklonia cava and onion shell mixture that was proven through abnormal experiments. For the three baenaet jeogori and two rest suits, the company has developed a fashion product recognized for high value-added merchandise using a variegation dyeing method made in a handmade style for expressing a person's natural sensibility through dyeing fabrics. Based on the results of the above research, it is expected that various fashion product developments will be possible by dyeing a mixture of functional and colorful extracts of the drug and colorful dye.