• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.82-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 1986

War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.83-100
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• 1999

Articles from leading daily newspapers dealing with costumes analyzed here dating back to oughly one year before the I.M.F. system came into place in korea. The values and esthetic consciousness of that period were studied through fashion. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. The values of exhibition conformity and extravagance were emphasized. 2. The beauty of play the beauty of the extraordinary and the beauty of splendour were expressed as the esthetic consciousness 3. Preference of young people toward expensive high-grade and foreign-made brands was excessive Adults have to guide the young not to overconsume. Development of a sounder culture of clothing is needed for the establishment of economic prosperity for the nation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.68-77
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• 2002

In this study, based on Choi, Jong Rim's script (2000), the main characters' stage costume designs were presented with 15 illustrated pieces in terms of compounding the images of Korea and West. I considerered the main characters' social status and personality by each act and scene, as well as the correlation of the stage costume's minor theme, color and material. In expressing the stage costume, this study has chosen the formational method of the comparative design dimensions between costumes in 1650s Joseon and baroque period and used the joinder of flat pattern and draping in various parts of the costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 1982

The creation of clothing is a form of aesthetic expression through which feelings and ideas are conveyed. This study tried to find out the mental world and aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt through the costume of the period. The beauty of human body was esteemed and expressed in body exposure, tight costumes and transparent fabrics. Through the silhouette of costume, wig and accessories, the beauty of simplicity was expressed. And the beauty of harmony was sought through the beauty of balance and emphasis. The aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt is the refined elegance and it was composed on the basis of the ideas of nature worship and had been preserved by the spirit of traditionism for about 3, 000 years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.121-136
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.261-275
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• 2022

In this stage when K-Pop and K-Fashion have been drawing global attention, it is required to activate the Korean culture and fashion by developing fashion products which reinterpret various items in the Hanbok fields with modern sense in connection with Korean wave. Thus, this study aims to develop fashion products related to Korean wave with court dance costumes used in court banquets, which may be the origin of K-Pop, as the main theme, and to converge and expand culture and fashion fields. To this end, the original court dance costumes and their modern forms continuing in these days were analyzed and the costumes for Musanhyang, Yeonhwadae, Cheoyongmu, Chundaeokchok and Chunaengjeon differentiated from existing daily Hanbok were selected. The fashion products related to Korean wave reflecting the specific elements of those five costumes were designed. Then, the silhouette and sizes of those costumes were checked using the CLO, the 3D virtual clothing program and total 5 fashion products were created. In conclusion, the results of this paper will contribute on making Korean design popular on the design aspects, expanding the scope of Korean wave contents on the industrial aspects and globalizing the K-Fashion on the global aspects.