• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Design Studies Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.212-213
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• 2004

Since the advent of man there has been a constant struggle to define social pattern, and understand ways of cultural thinking. Every culture has it's own limitations and freedoms, problems and expectations. For centuries now anthropologist, ethnographers have worked on mapping and defining these differences. These findings instigate the designers to formulate new design theories and research methodologies for drafting cultural specific solutions. The question arises 'in a cross cultural application how effective and applicable are the basic research methodologies'? Quoting one such example the 'Privacy' issue seems to be a very strong component in the Japanese culture but is often a deterring factor in allowing the 'home ethnographic study to take place effectively'. However in countries like India similar studies could have a more welcoming reaction owing to the adaptive social culture. Similarly, the high rate of 'Illiteracy' in rural India closes many doors for 'form filling' user surveys. This leads to the scope of research for understanding specific cultural traits that may effect adaptation and re-improvisation of these existing methodologies. Quite often the cultural traits of a country may lead in forming new research methodologies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop middle school girl's' school uniform sizing system according to their body types. The data collected with anthropometric measurements from 390 middle school girls aged 12-15 years old was analyzed using t-test, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis. A new sizing system was developed in accordance with each of the 2 body-type clusters. The analysis of two-way distribution of 'height-bust girth' and 'height-waist girth' was conducted for the girls of the first grade, which is the time when they purchase their school uniforms. The interval of sizing system was defined in consideration with the most efficient distribution of the body sizes utilizing Loss Function. This study also provided Reference-Sizes and Growth-Allowance Measures for each sizing system to help pattern drafting and clothing construction of the uniform manufacturers. The cover ratio of sizing system proposed by this study was higher when compared with that of the National Agency for Technology and Quality and uniform manufacturing companies, Thus, the result of this study is expected to make up the current sizing system of the school uniform.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.346-360
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• 2021

Universities have recently introduced problem-based learning (PBL) to various subjects to enhance problem-solving skills (including self-directed learning and small-group learning) required in industry. The PBL module was applied to the personal production process in a draping class. A study was based on a questionnaire after conducting two PBL modules with a group of students. Each PBL module included 'design analysis', 'presentation of flat sketch and draping plan', 'discussion of the plan', 'evaluation of the draping result and correcting the problem', and 'final evaluation of the completed project'. Results showed that satisfaction with the PBL method and its activities was higher than satisfaction with existing teaching methods. In particular, among the various components, the 'design analysis' and 'the presentation step of flat sketch and draping plan' stages were more helpful to students compared to small-group discussion. Moreover, the effects of PBL were observed through student reflection essays, in which students suggested that PBL was very effective in enhancing problem-solving through self-directed and small-group learning. Despite the overall satisfaction with PBL, students expressed some minor difficulties associated with awkwardness with a novel learning method, lack of diverse perspectives among each group, and poor communication skills. Therefore, the study shows that PBL is highly likely to be useful to students when they are solving pattern drafting problems and making samples through self-directed learning and small-group learning.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.367-374
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• 2003

When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.609-624
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to give the guideline to the pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of tailored collar with the location and angle of gorge line and laying measurement of the tailored collar while designing the tailored collar. The results of this study are as follows : Images of the sample at the case of 1cm of laying measurement looks 'urban', 'light', 'sharp', 'young', 'fashionable' and 'narrow' than that at the case of 7cm. When the laying measurement increases, the image of the sample looks more 'classical' and 'boorish'. The image of the sample 'light', 'sensuous' and 'young' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. Second, at the case of sample whose laying measurements of the collar was 5cm, it was shown that the low location of gorge line made the image of the sample 'soft' and 'short'. On the other hand the image of the sample looked 'hard', 'keen' and 'long' by the high location of gorge line. Third, at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 7cm, low location of gorge line made the image of the sample look short. However, normal location of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'fashionable'. The images of the samples of which laying measurements of the collar were 3cm, 5cm and 7cm, respectively, had changed with the angle of gorge line. First, the high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample 'rigid' and 'keen' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. The high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'boorish' and 'singular'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

This research proposes a pattern making method for women's bodice by the characters of body types and develops bodice dress forms on their body shapes applying 3D body scan data. 515 women's body scan data was collected and analyzed factor and cluster analysis. Three body types were characterized in normal, obese, and slim group. In each group, 10 subjects were selected. 20 parts in 3D anthropometric data were measured using Autocad program. The amount of waist dart was calculated and three types of basic bodice pattern were developed using the calculated darts data. The amount and the position of front dart and side dart were different at obese group in comparison of normal and thin group. The three types of basic bodice model were made by the basic bodice pattern, and each model was scanned by 3D scanner to make 3D bodice dress forms. Three types of bodice dress forms were rendered using 3D max program. Bodice dress forms had the dart lines and were useful to draft patterns to fit their body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.249-263
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• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.