• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.95-110
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• 1997

According to the design method for constructing the crotch angle of traditional Korean men's trousers there are differences in from after its completion. Since there is no standardization of visual & aesthetic pattern for the construction method which is stablished by the calculation formular of waist girth hip girth pantleg end and upper outer leg length it is difficult to be used for educational use or for teaching materials. Therefore the purpose of this project according to five models in proportion to the physical standard of Korea in ages from 24 to 29 years old is to establish a design criterion and the standardization of construction methods by introduction the pant construction method of the crotch angle by converting the sitting posture length to seaming crotch center point both knees width in the Korean way of sitting. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The waist girth formular is {{{{ { w} over {4 } }}}}+{{{{ {w} over {10 } }}}}(2) The hip girth formular is {{{{ {H } over { 4} }}}}+{{{{ {H } over {5 } }}}}(3) The pantleg end formular is {{{{ {H } over {4 } }}}}(4) A crotch angle is fixed at 70 degress.(5) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5:8 (6) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length in 5:8(7) The ratio of the division point of front / right inner leg length and left inner leg width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.307-319
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• 1992

The Purpose of this study Gerber company AM-300 system of the automatic system of Producing the original form the automatic system of Producing the original form of "Jogori(a Korean Jacket)' and Grading by the usage of computers and find out its efficiency. In the result, the auther has found out the following facts and became confident on the facts; The AM-300 program of the automatic system enabled to produce the original form of 'Jogori' and Grading fitting in a short time and definately, and which indicated that the automatically producing system of the original form of 'Jorgori' and Granding is efficient. Even in the aspect of education, it has been acknowledged that there is necessity of using computers, the accumulation of techincs and technology based on traditions by cultivating professional designers, and computerization so that the composition of 'Hanbok' (Korean clothes) should be rational and scientific. In addition, advertisement and education on the traditionalism and superiority of 'Hanblk' are indispensable and absolutely necessary. Also, to succeed folk costumes rightly, the usage of computers is thought to be a way to effectiveness. So far in the study, only the automatic system of producing the original form of 'Jogori' and Grading through computers is emphasized on, however in the future, such an automatic system should be continuously supplemented, studied on and developed even in other various fields such as in pattern making, design, products planning, etc..

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics S
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• v.34S no.10
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• pp.120-131
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• 1997

This paper prsents a new method that automatically recognizes the dimension lines (consisting of shape lines, tail lines and extension lines) from the mechanical drawings. In the proposed method, the object and closed-loop symbols are separated from the character-free drawings. Then the object lines and interpretation lines are vectorized by using several techniques such as thinning, line-vectorization, and vector-clustering. Finally, after recognizing arrowheads by using pattern matching, we recognize dimension lines from interpretation lines by using arrohead's directional vector and centroid. By using the methods of geometric modeling and mathematical operation, the proposed method readility recognizes the dimension lines from complex drawings. Experimental resuls are presented, which are obtained by applying the proposed method to drawings drawn in compliance with the KS drafting standard.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.852-859
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• 1996

The factors and mechanism of arm surface changes were analyzed by regression analysis for the relationship between changes in arm joint angle and arm surface changes, according to the direction of upper extremity motion. Body surface change patterns among subjects were tested also. Experiments were carried out on 3 female subjects of different body types to examine 26 motions in 4 directions for 4 upper extremity parts. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. The expansion or contraction of arm surface length depends on the direction of upper extremity motion. 2. Arm surface length changes by linear expansion or contraction according to the joint angle of the direction of motion. The mechanism of arm surface changes is represented by a linear relation between arm surface changes and the (actors of the direction of upper extremity motion and arm joint angle. 3. Arm surface length shows the same pattern of body surface changes regardless of body type. A quantitative model of body surface changes at upper extremity should be developed for functional sleeve design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.71-89
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to design posture braces for rounded shoulders by examining characteristics of incorrect postures of rounded shoulders. The review of information in literature on rounded shoulder postures, correction exercise methods, and posture correction devices, has prompted this study to determine the design and material of a proper posture brace for rounded shoulders. In order to develop the pattern of a posture brace for rounded shoulders for women, the study carried out a comfort evaluation of the braces based on the 2D patterns through drafting method by utilizing the body measurements and relational formulae associated with the major body measurement such as bust circumference and on the 3D patterns of the brace which were obtained from 3D human model of women in their early 20s in Korea. Differences in angles were noted when 2D and 3D patterns of shoulder posture braces were compared. The side neck point was relocated farther outside in the 3D pattern to allow additional flexibility in the back-neck area, and the shoulder band was lowered by 14.8°, increasing armhole area comfort. The upper hemline of the front panel was found to rotate upward at an angle of 22.0° as the underarm point of the 3D pattern moved upwards than the underarm point of the 2D pattern, which enhanced comfort in the abdomen area. The 3D designs of shoulder posture brace was preferred in this study, as they significantly improved comfort while conducting fit evaluation compared to the 2D patterns of shoulder posture brace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.