• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.143-158
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• 1996

It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.102-119
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to develop various designs through renewing and changing perception of accessories by examining various and arbitrary Kitsch. For the method of this study, literature review was mainly used for research of formative characteristics in Kitsch fashion. 798 pieces of work from fashion magazines and website with a focus on Milan, Paris, London and New York collections, in the decade of 2000-2010 were collected. The results of this study are as follows. First, the characteristic of exaggeration is classified into two types: the visual exaggeration, which is characterized by psychological expression through excessive images and (2) the collecting exaggeration, which is not simple but a want of large quantities. Second, the characteristic of satire is classified into two types: (1) the imitation-satire, which satirizes messages to societies with creative humor by using easily consumed materials and (2) the resistance-satire, which is destructive and offensive against isolation and desolation of a capitalistic society. Third, the characteristic of amusement is classified into two types: (1) the playful-amusement, which raises a laugh slyly by using clever materials and (2) the childish-amusement, which involves childish imagination and humor-sense because of desire to be a child. Fourth, the characteristic of nostalgia is classified into two types: (1) the romantic character expressing a departure from modern society, which is desolate because of the urbanization process, and (2) the intermediate character recreating an esthetic category by interacting with different and relative elements. Fifth, the characteristic of inappropriateness is expressed through a deliberate mistake, and it denies existing senses of beauty by overturning common sense and creating new senses of beauty, expressions in distortion and modification of stereotype.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

In the fashion industry, the thing that shows the latest trends and makes issues is the fashion show. The function of fashion shows is changing from a promotional mean to a method of communication with customers. Recently, some fashion shows have used digital images and omitted traditional parts of a fashion show such as models, stages, garments, music and audiences. In this study, 30 fashion shows that used digital images were selected from the 2000-2010 collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York, and its communication characteristics were analyzed and discussed. The three categories of the communication characteristics are as follows: First, the shows used digital images as stage sceneries or effects to create desired stage effects. The digital images were used as extra tools to reinforce the concept of the fashion show. Second, the fashion shows used real-time videos to extend its presentation into the virtual space. The interactive videos were designed to encourage audiences to actively participate in the show. Third, the digital images were the focus of the show for the internet-only digital fashion shows. Since the Internet is not constrained by time or space, multi-faceted, communication between audiences and fashion designers or among audiences is possible. In addition, the number of audience it can reach is higher than traditional fashion shows. Digital images will be used more often in the fashion shows. In the future, fashion shows will try to become more interactive with audiences through the use of new digital image technology.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.112-119
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• 2012

Dresses reflecting human aesthetic consciousness are used as a way of expressing the inner desire of human beings. The desire to attract the opposite sex through sexual appeal among the human inner desires is the one innate characteristic that all human beings have. We may say that the $See-through$ look emphasizes a sense of softness and femininity by exposing the skin and expresses bodily beauty by way of using see-through cloth. It is a fashion style that can express sexual appeal and eroticism of female most effectively. In this study, after observing the motivation of dress wearing and $See-through$ look in the perspective of bodily concept and eroticism, colors of $See-through$ look shown in the $Pret-a-Porter$ Paris S/S collection from 2006 and 2007, a fashion style expressing eroticism was newly re-analyzed as romanticism and glam look particularly in 60, 80s compared with other times were re-created and evaluated. As a result of analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, Yellow Red(close to skin color) was revealed to be the highest( 31.3%), followed by Red(9%), Purple Blue(7.2%), Yellow(7.2%), Purple(5.4%), respectively and in terms of color tone, pale and gray tones that have a sense of femininity and softness was revealed to the highest(20%) followed by ltg(11%) and dkg(9%). We may find the meaning of this study in analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, and the typical look of eroticism, which has never been tried before. It is required to identify chronological color features of the $See-through$ look and the diversified characteristics of skin colors expressed in them to prepare useful data by which a sense of the $See-through$ look can be utilized for color coordination through the relationship between skin tone and dress by pursuing a more detailed method based on the result of this study.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.1547-1551
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• 2012

Background: Lung cancer is the leading cause of cancer morbidity and mortality. Its management has a significant economic impact on society. Despite a high incidence of cancer, so far, there is no national register for this disease in Morocco. The main goal of this report was to estimate the medical costs of lung cancer in our country. Methods: We first estimated the number of annual new cases according to stage of the disease on the basis of the Grand-Casablanca-Region Cancer Registry data. For each sub-group, the protocol of treatment was described taking into account the international guidelines, and an evaluation of individual costs during the first year following diagnosis was made. Extrapolation of the results to the whole country was used to calculate the total annual cost of treatments for lung cancer in Morocco. Results: Overall approximately 3,500 new cases of lung cancer occur each year in the country. Stages I and II account for only 4% of cases, while 96% are diagnosed at locally advanced or metastatic stages III and IV. The total medical cost of lung cancer in Morocco is estimated to be around USD 12 million. This cost represents approximately 1% of the global budget of the Health Department. According to AROME Guidelines, about 86% of the newly diagnosed lung cancer cases needed palliative treatment while 14% required curative intent therapy. The total cost of early and advanced stages lung cancer management during the first year were estimated to be 4,600 and 3,420 USD, respectively. Conclusion: This study provides health decision-makers with a first estimate of costs and the opportunity to achieve the optimal use of available data to estimate the needs of health facilities in Morocco. A substantial proportion of the burden of lung cancer could be prevented through the application of existing cancer control knowledge and by implementing tobacco control programs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1274-1290
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• 2010

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.955-971
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• 한국보육지원학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.51-69
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• 2014

포스트모던 그림책을 활용한 이야기꾸미기 활동이 유아의 창의성 및 이야기 구성능력에 어떠한 효과를 미치는지 알아보고자 부산광역시 J군에 소재한 G어린이집 만5세 유아 21명과 J어린이집 만5세 유아 18명을 대상으로, 실험집단은 포스트모던 그림책을 활용한 이야기꾸미기 활동을 12주간 주 2회 총 18회를 실시하였고, 비교집단은 자유선택활동에 포스트모던 그림책을 개별적으로 읽어보는 활동을 하였다. 창의성 측정 도구는 전경원(2000)의 유아용 종합 창의성 검사(K-CCTYC)를, 사용하였으며, 이야기 구성능력 검사도구는 Kraayenoord와 Paris(1996)가 개발한 '그림책을 통한 이야기 구성' 3단계 평가를 고은님(1997)이 수정, 보완한 도구를 사용하였다. 본 연구 결과 포스트모던 그림책을 활용한 이야기꾸미기 활동은 유아의 창의성과 이야기 구성능력을 향상시키는데 효과적임을 알 수 있다.